i think i read that they need + voltage in the user manual pdf..
This is how they work. I probably goofed something in the software, so I will take a look. The only thing I didnt test thoroughly each time, were the digital inputs.
awesome! im that case, keep the DIP stuff =] Way to think ahead, or maybe learn from experience :p
Actually we had smd drivers on the beta boards. They worked fine and all, until they needed to be replaced. :) If you accidentally short a digital output's high current pin to ground, the fuse cannot react quick enough for that, and in turn it blows out an entire circuit in the driver chip. So that output will never work again. Then shortly after that (and by shortly we are talking micro/nano seconds sort of timing), the PTC kicks in, and all is saved for then. But then that output is fried permanently. So with the smd, that is just the way it is, but with the DIPs in sockets, if Joe Schmo does this, he can replace it himself for like 40 cents rather than a whole new board at $50. Then the reasoning behing the PIC being DIP is just for ease of programming. Tim programs. and I ship. So he mails me all the programmed chips, I stick them in and test. Also if the analogue inputs receive more than 5v or less than 0v, the PIC will blow out that input. So again, that entire port is useless until it is fixed. So $8 compared to $50 again. The cost thing is not for us. It costs us more to go wth the DIP sized chips and the sockets, but it costs less for you guys if you do something accidentally, like try to measure the output with huge multimeter probes and blow up your chip (cough Tim cough ;) :D :lol:).