Yes the 2 pin header between the USB jack and the analogues is the reset header.
The 6 pin header is the programming header that only I use.
Great. Now let me know something else to test !
If you get excited and spill pop all over it when it is on, it smokes a bit and stops working... I think I have tested this thoroughly enough though before unfortunately. :(
I am working on the software to finally have it integrated. For now I was hoping connection longevity tests on other machines would be possible. So if you have it talking through HT, just leave it connected all night, and in the morning do a "a?" or a "*IDN?" and make sure it still speaks. I had mine on 3 machines go days at a time always OK. All of them were Win7 though. Sounds like you are Win7 as well. :)
You can test your outputs with some relays, and use the right most column for some preset PWM on LEDs which i know you have been itching to do.
I don't know how to command the PWM through hyperterminal. What other commands can I use, point me to a list somewhere?
I'll put some relay testing together, and I've got plenty of LEDs to test with.
Another thing, one of my main goals is taking over the AC controls. I already had to butcher them to install the 8" touchscreen properly, so all 16 buttons are replaced with individual switches right now. I want to control all 16 (best case) with the FB, probably end up working in some automatic temp controls since its dual zone (Lexus). The buttons are already multiplexed from OE, two sets of 8, so I can't use a common through the FB. Instead, I need to have the FB contact each pair individually. I was planning on building a mini relay board using some small multi channel isolated relays. Can you think of a better way?
---------- Post added at 11:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 PM ----------
Bug test, when you get up to about 23 output states on (LEDs only) just using USB power, it crashes. :) I don't have a powered hub here, so that must have been the limit of my MB.
Your system's 5v rail isn't beefy enough then. :)
PWM is only available through bulk mode right now. It will come with serial com soon, and the D:NN:S controls it. if S is 0 it is off, anything else up to 255 is % duty cycle. So D:00:255 is turn on output 0 fully. Currently the code is if it is 0, then off. Otherwise it is on. Or maybe if 1 then on, otherwise off. I forget, but it will change
For little relay board, I may have something coming. ;)
But your idea is the simplest. The use of solid state relays will probably be best.
---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:29 AM ----------
Ok, I have an extremely important day tomorrow (well today now) so I need to hit the hay. Night.
---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:32 AM ----------
Man I hate this automerge...
I'm testing some LEDs, still using my 12+ power supply (couldn't find a lower one) Drives the LEDs on all the working channels I mentioned before. I couldn't find any PWM channels (anything other than :1 turns them off), or did you mean that was coming soon, and not on the board I have? I'm gonna leave this setup running, driving this circuit. Board isn't getting hot so I don't think it'll melt overnight. Let ya know tomorrow!!
---------- Post added at 01:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:10 AM ----------
A working FB V6 !
Sorry the picture sucks, the LEDs were blinding my iPhone!
ugh automerge is making it near impossible for me to follow this thread. Am i correct in reading that unless i'm using 12v on the digital output i can power the device with only usb? That is SWEET! I cant find a barrel plug to fit the v6, its smaller than the v3's, which i power with a spare lilliput ac adapter.
Yes this board can be powered via USB for everything except the actual + pins of the outputs. Those are tied only to the power jack. However, you can supply it with 5v at the power jack and then you have 5v digital outputs.
The V6 power jack should be the same as V4, I can't remember about V3... But it should be the same. It is a standard 2.1mm centre pin positive supply. But everything (minus relays) works without it connected.
For PWM, right now you cannot do this with the serial interface. With the bulk interface (similar to what V4 and V3 use) it is possible now. But the right most column (ports 16-23) are commandeered as forced PWM values right now by default.
And the only heat source on these boards, are the LEDs ironically. The power supply is extremely efficient and puts out almost no heat at all. You can touch the inductor on there and be in wonder if the thing is even on. :)
Its still running strong. I haven't lost connection or reset since last night. I'll just leave it on, makes that corner of my desk glow nicely!
As for the power connector, I found at least 4 bricks around my house that fit it fine, of course all of them are +12 !!! (Actually I found a 9V one, but it was putting out 16v :( !! )
Nobody else posted, so this will probably merge. FB 6 is still active and working. looking good for reliability testing. When I get the rest of my header connectors in I'll set up multiple outputs and have a lot more of them run at once.