Here is the picture of the hack I did after I fried the voltage regulator on board... Not very clean, the wires are different lengths, and I was just to lazy to care. What really matters about this is that the NTE960 appears to be more efficient than the on board one. What I mean by this is what I noticed when I first got it but wanted to see if it was normal or not. What I noticed was that the PIC seemed to be on the warm side no warmer than my BS2se running on 9v but still warmer than I would have expected. However, since I put on the new regulator the PIC has been 100% room temp to matter how much stress I put on it.
"Mess with the best, die like the rest."
Work Log --> Old Car (Totaled)
Work Log v2 --> New Car (Totaled)
Work Log v3 --> GMC Suburban K2500 (Work in progress)
any beta reports?
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This thing is in my plans for my install in early June, so the faster you beta guys work out the bugs the less worried I need to be about getting it by then.
I would love to give you all an update on how the board i have is doing... but i havent even gotten that far yet
I've been busy working on the VB6 code to control it, which is about to be done. So after that ill have to get a power adapter for the board so i can run it on my computer to test it.... Really wish it had a 12v computer adapter
Anywho, check your mail Nick.
David
Ok, here is the Visual Basic 6 codeto control the Fusion Brain from outside in. It currently does the following:
- Reads the Digital Output Button captions
- Reads the Analogue Input captions
- Turns on/off the Digital Outputs
- Turns on/off the Analogue Inputs
Yeah doesn’t seem like much but it took a lot of work and back and forth talking with Nick just to get this far. I challenge anyone here to mod/update this code with more functions and repost it back on the forum topic. I have a lot of projects I have to work on so I was doing this in my spare time.
David
wish I knew how to do something with that vb6 file
well I started to build my primary interface, still have to wire up all the control wiring & add a bunch of diodes... I used 5v reed relays, coulda did it all transistorized I guess, but I'm just working with what I have laying around right now & this'll do it,
I also had to drop the 12v output to 5v, the rf board I'm interfacing too is actually 6v, but should be fine with 5v I think... range would decrease a lot, but I'm only transmitting a few ft. & this has a 1 mile range
I haven't had a chance to really play around with the software much, so if this is a stupid question then sorry, but I have a question:
my remote interface uses 4 buttons, & each one when pressed for 500ms does one function, & when pressed for like 2 seconds does another... & there are also other functions that require 2 of these buttons pressed at the same time...
I was planning on having each function I want on a seperate button skinwise, & to have each use a seperate output, there may be multiple outputs going to the same button in some cases, because there just a different timing...
I can isolate each with diodes of course,& use a seperate output from the fusion for each function, but I was wondering if there was a way to have let say one skin button activate output 1 for 500ms, & then another button to activate the same output but for 2 sec.s, & then the same for the other outputs, & then if there was a way to have a skin button activate 2 outputs simultaniously for a predetermined time also...
I guess this would conserve outputs for me, & I could just use 4 of my outputs to do up to 12 functions....
I'm guessing this may be difficult for you to & may not even be useful for everyone, truth is, if multiple board's are down the road then it don't even matter, but just thought I'd ask anyway![]()
MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen
first windows carpc install........my liquid cooled LVDS screen :D
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