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Thread: Stereo Sub Vibration Causing Pc To Reboot!

  1. #11
    Maximum Bitrate tn6478's Avatar
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    run your pc with a separated power source from your system.

  2. #12
    Newbie knightmare007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tn6478 View Post
    run your pc with a separated power source from your system.
    i got 4 gauge running from the battery to the trunk right now, you think i should run a separate line form to battery to the pc? instead of running it off a power block from the cap?

    i was thinking, if the new bigger cap doesnt fix it, maybe running the big cap on the stereo, and the existing 1 farad cap off the bigger cap and then the pc to the 1 farad would be good.
    Thanks, the ubernoob

  3. #13
    FLAC DodgeCummins's Avatar
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    I don't suppose you have thought about measuring the voltage during this?

    Do you have a tiny stock battery and alternator?

  4. #14
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    capacitors often cause more problems than they solve... if possible, try running your system without the capacitor at all, seriously. See if that solves it. Also, have some bass heavy music running and see what the voltage drops to at the battery on bass hits (using a multimeter). If it's not dropping too much at the battery then the battery shouldn't be your problem.

    Did you say a single run of 4 gauge running everything? What exactly is running from that 4 gauge cable? sub amp + computer? anything else? A single run of 4 gauge is probably a little on the small side to be running all of that. I'd be betting on your problem being a result of either the 4 gauge not being able to handle all the power requirements or the capacitor making more problems than it's solving.

    There's a couple of basic steps to improving the power system in your car:

    Upgrade under the hood cabling: basically run thicker gauge cabling between the battery negative post and the vehicle ground and replace some of the other thinner OEM cabling under the hood with thicker cabling (wire coming from alternator etc).
    Battery upgrade: find a battery with a higher CCA rating/larger amp hours.
    Alternator upgrade: use a higher output alternator.

    Cabling is the easiest and probably the cheapest thing to upgrade, and can solve alot of problems with it. Same with battery upgrade, can solve alot of problems, a bit more expensive. An alternator upgrade is only something you'd do after upgrading cabling/better battery, but in most cases an alternator upgrade won't be necessary.

  5. #15
    Newbie knightmare007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DodgeCummins View Post
    I don't suppose you have thought about measuring the voltage during this?

    Do you have a tiny stock battery and alternator?
    i thought about that, but im running it off a 1 farrad cap, and it has a digital readout of the voltage which even with the bass hitting, stays between 13.3 and 13.7 volts.


    and yes both are stock
    Thanks, the ubernoob

  6. #16
    Newbie knightmare007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brycestro View Post
    capacitors often cause more problems than they solve... if possible, try running your system without the capacitor at all, seriously. See if that solves it. Also, have some bass heavy music running and see what the voltage drops to at the battery on bass hits (using a multimeter). If it's not dropping too much at the battery then the battery shouldn't be your problem.

    Did you say a single run of 4 gauge running everything? What exactly is running from that 4 gauge cable? sub amp + computer? anything else? A single run of 4 gauge is probably a little on the small side to be running all of that. I'd be betting on your problem being a result of either the 4 gauge not being able to handle all the power requirements or the capacitor making more problems than it's solving.

    There's a couple of basic steps to improving the power system in your car:

    Upgrade under the hood cabling: basically run thicker gauge cabling between the battery negative post and the vehicle ground and replace some of the other thinner OEM cabling under the hood with thicker cabling (wire coming from alternator etc).
    Battery upgrade: find a battery with a higher CCA rating/larger amp hours.
    Alternator upgrade: use a higher output alternator.

    Cabling is the easiest and probably the cheapest thing to upgrade, and can solve alot of problems with it. Same with battery upgrade, can solve alot of problems, a bit more expensive. An alternator upgrade is only something you'd do after upgrading cabling/better battery, but in most cases an alternator upgrade won't be necessary.
    actually 4 gauge cable is pretty freaking thick. and accoridng to this chart...

    http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/le...uge_chart.html

    im well within the limits of 4 guage cable if you add my 800 watt amp and 100 wats for the pc. for a total of 900 and then devide that by the 13.8 = 65.

    ive thought about getting an optima battery and i might soon. im pretty sure i wont need an altanator, my system really is not that extreme.

    can you tell me why you think caps cause problems? i kind of find that very hard to believe. they solve the lights dimming issue, and lots of people use them, and i can only imagine its for good reason.
    Thanks, the ubernoob

  7. #17
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knightmare007 View Post
    actually 4 gauge cable is pretty freaking thick. and accoridng to this chart...

    http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/le...uge_chart.html

    im well within the limits of 4 guage cable if you add my 800 watt amp and 100 wats for the pc. for a total of 900 and then devide that by the 13.8 = 65.

    ive thought about getting an optima battery and i might soon. im pretty sure i wont need an altanator, my system really is not that extreme.

    can you tell me why you think caps cause problems? i kind of find that very hard to believe. they solve the lights dimming issue, and lots of people use them, and i can only imagine its for good reason.
    whoa whoa whoa... You had the lights dimming? Your battery is no good.

    And no, a capacitor is useless. And yes, a capacitor is more trouble than it is worth. Just bypass and see if it works. And if your lights are dimming then you have some issues you need to correct. A cap will "bandaid" it, but as you are finding out not well.

    Also a cap has a maximum current it can pass through. So if you are using awg to the cap and then to your components from that, you may be underpowering them because the cap is the chokehold. Once the capacitor is called on to give up its storage of energy, the current available drops exponentially and will take some time to "recharge" by Kirchoff's Laws. So if your battery cant handle it to begin with (which is why the cap is used), then now it has to both recharge the cap and power everything
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  8. #18
    Newbie knightmare007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
    whoa whoa whoa... You had the lights dimming? Your battery is no good.

    And no, a capacitor is useless. And yes, a capacitor is more trouble than it is worth. Just bypass and see if it works. And if your lights are dimming then you have some issues you need to correct. A cap will "bandaid" it, but as you are finding out not well.

    Also a cap has a maximum current it can pass through. So if you are using awg to the cap and then to your components from that, you may be underpowering them because the cap is the chokehold. Once the capacitor is called on to give up its storage of energy, the current available drops exponentially and will take some time to "recharge" by Kirchoff's Laws. So if your battery cant handle it to begin with (which is why the cap is used), then now it has to both recharge the cap and power everything
    everyone i know that upgrades to an amp/sub stereo has the lights dim when the bass hits, and everyone solves this with a cap.

    but what your saying is instead of buying a cap, you should always buy a battery instead?

    the battery stores evergy for a long time, and is a constant power feeder, where the cap charges very quickly to give off short bursts of emence power, something a car abttery is not capable of, therefore ideal when the amp asks for a **** ton of power real quick to pump the subs for a quick heavy bass note.


    that is all wrong? a cap is **** that is not worth money or time, and everyone should buy a huge battery instead. is that what your saying?

    a big *** battery will happily let out huge amounts of power instantly to properly feed my amp?

    sorry if i sound condesending, but that is completly strange to hear when for years ive been told otherwise, i suppose its possible, but it just seems strange to me why everyone is buying huge caps to run their stereo, if the problem is the battery.
    Thanks, the ubernoob

  9. #19
    Newbie knightmare007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
    whoa whoa whoa... You had the lights dimming? Your battery is no good.

    And no, a capacitor is useless. And yes, a capacitor is more trouble than it is worth. Just bypass and see if it works. And if your lights are dimming then you have some issues you need to correct. A cap will "bandaid" it, but as you are finding out not well.

    Also a cap has a maximum current it can pass through. So if you are using awg to the cap and then to your components from that, you may be underpowering them because the cap is the chokehold. Once the capacitor is called on to give up its storage of energy, the current available drops exponentially and will take some time to "recharge" by Kirchoff's Laws. So if your battery cant handle it to begin with (which is why the cap is used), then now it has to both recharge the cap and power everything
    well after some reading about caps, i tried it without the cap, i used to be able to hit about a volume of 30 before the system would reboot, thats out of 40. now without the cap i hit about 24 and it reboots, this isnt super conclusive that it made a huge negative impact, but no, removing the cap did not fix it.

    im really not surprised, but am ****ed about it, i wish it was such a simple fix.

    ill try my new 6 farad on monday. if that doesnt solve it ill prob get the optima battery, as i would like a deep discharge anyhow.
    Thanks, the ubernoob

  10. #20
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    You seem determined to do what you want to do, so do it.

    I wil tell you this though:

    There are a lot more powerful carpc audio setups here (mine is one) that do not have your issues and a capacitor is not required. It sounds as if you have a power supply or wiring issue somewhere.

    Have you done the "big three" yet? This will fix most power problems in a "modest" system such as yours. Alot of wilder systems also.

    2k is right and you've been listening to the wrong people................

    Nothing personal.

    Good luck
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