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Thread: hardware volume control

  1. #1
    Variable Bitrate
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    hardware volume control

    I want to build a hardware volume control with a 10k potentiometer.
    wired in between the soundcard and the amp.

    simple question
    will this work?
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062298

    for a soldering job like this, how do you guys usually did it?
    just solder the cable to the pin? or use breadboard? (sound quality would suffer?)

    anyone know where I can buy the knob for cheap?
    cheapest on ebay $10 shipped, looking for something really cheap.

    thanks!

  2. #2
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    Radioshack also sells knobs. There are nice stainless-steel-esque knobs 2 for $3.99 there.

    And it should work. Not the best solution but it will work. Sound quality will suffer no matter what, because that thing shouldnt be in there and it is not a high quality part. The entire system is only as strong as the weakest component. But it will work.
    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
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  3. #3
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    great!
    I don't really care about sound quality, I am using stock speaker with cheapo amp.

    thanks

  4. #4
    Raw Wave Rob Withey's Avatar
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    I don't see anywhere that says that pot is good for stereo. The pictures aren't good enough and the features/specs on the web page are not enough. If you are controlling stereo then you need to mke sure it is a dual gang.
    Old Systems retired due to new car
    New system at design/prototype stage on BeagleBoard.

  5. #5
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    how about this then?
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rt&tab=summary

    but it's a 100k potentiometer.
    would that work?

    and what is loudness tap? those thing has 40% loudness tap

  6. #6
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Withey View Post
    I don't see anywhere that says that pot is good for stereo. The pictures aren't good enough and the features/specs on the web page are not enough. If you are controlling stereo then you need to mke sure it is a dual gang.
    Well, I just learned a lot about pots, thanks to this thread. I was just going to move on, but I then thought I'd share the link. I googled dual-gang potentiometer, and found this:

    http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm

    Based on the context (stereo) and my experience with electrics/electronics, I figured that's what it was but I was curious, and that curiosity paid dividends, there is much there I never considered before... Neat.

  7. #7
    Variable Bitrate
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    after spending a lot of time looking for a good dual gang pot (1k/10k)
    I found this :
    http://store.automall.com/intacc-158...0002J226O.html

    from the mfctr website:
    http://www.pac-audio.com/products/pr...%20Controllers

    pac lc1

    any thought?
    for $15, I don't even want to mess with another pot

  8. #8
    Variable Bitrate
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    I contacted pac audio technical support guy, the response:

    =================
    Hi,

    Yes it will


    Thank You.
    Jose J.Martinez
    Technical Support
    Pacific Accessory Corporation.
    800 854 3133 Ext. 133

    -----Original Message-----
    Hi,

    I have question on pac lc1 and lc2
    Is it able to control volume?

    My plan is to wired the pac lc1 or lc2 in between an amplifier and
    computer sound card.
    Would it be able to control the volume?

    Let me know asap please.

    Thanks
    ============

    I'd order one today and let you guys know the result soon.
    I think this is much better than griffin powermate solution (not computer/driver dependent)

  9. #9
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    the pac lc-1 just came in.
    I opened the case, it's dual gang 50k ohm potentiometer

    not sure whether it will work.
    I need to try it on the amplifier
    is it okay to power amplifier (400w, 50x4 rms) from atx power supply?
    anyone?

  10. #10
    Low Bitrate crimsonaudio's Avatar
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    Honestly, 20k is about as high as you should go - any higher than that and you really have to watch cable lengths and capacitance. You're best bet is to find a 10k (ideally, you'd use a 2k5Ω pot/switched attenuator in this case - easily high enough to drive but low enough to keep cables from becoming an issue at the lengths you typically find in car audio (< 20 feet).

    A good potentiometer will track pretty accurately except at the extremes of the throw or travel. A switched attenuator will be perfect - zero distortion, perfect stereo matching - but far more expensive ($100 and up).

    Regardless, a stereo 100k pot will work, though you *might* suffer a touch of hi frequency roll-off.

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