I think that you should make a 12->(whateverthebatteryisusing)-DC converter/regulator to skip the inverter part
and I would extend the cables betwheen the screen and the rest of the pc, I wouldnt wanna fiddle around with the guts of a laptop
I'm brand spanking new to this whole car-mp3 thing ... I've spent a great many hours over the past few days planning my own system .. of course trying to keep from breaking the bank ... here's my thoughts and I would like some input .. please
I have an AMD K6-3 450 laptop .. 12.1" lcd screen, decent cd-rom, 8gig HD.... I want to disassemble this thing and somehow attach all the guts (minus the cd-rom) to the back of the screen .. this way it can be mounted in dash and hopefully the wires won't have to run too far.
Now, this whole "how do I power my carputer thing is obviously an interesting topic ... this is what I've come up with as a great way to run a system without having to a power-loss to windows...
You have an inverter hooked up to a relay .. when the ignition is on, the inverter comes on .. that's been done .. of course, the laptop is powered by the inverter .. simple enough .. here's my thoughts ... you also run the battery in the laptop ... in Windows, set the power scheme to go into Standby after the laptop has been on the battery for 1min .. don't go into standby if you're "plugged in" (ie. inverter) ... so ... when the ignition is turned off, the laptop switches to battery and in 1 min goes into standby ..
Now, in the bios .. and I don't know if this is just my computer .. I'm assuming it's not ... you can tell the computer what to do when it goes into standby ... one of the options is to write the system out to disk and shut down. So, when the computer loses it's inverter power, it goes to battery, after 1 min goes into standby mode, then the bios writes the system out to disk and shuts down.. To turn it back on all you have to do is turn the ignition and hit the power button on the laptop ... I tested mine, it's takes 1min 40s to write to disk and power down once it loses main power ... takes 36s to boot back up .. that's pretty good. Has this been done and is old news?
I was also wondering a little bit about the IR port on the back of this laptop. I've seen them on plenty of laptops, but none are ever really used. Of course having a remote control to control Winamp is a must .. I see everyone buying IRMan's and stuff ... can the IRPort on a laptop be trained to do the same thing??
-mp320i (bmw baby)
Sounds like a good idea to me. Though you should skip the inverter, as already mentioned. There's no poin in 12V -> 120V ->19V (or whatever your laptop uses). A DC-DC converter will be much more efficient, and alot less likely to introduce noise.
Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
"If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."
How do I use a Dc-Dc PS in this setup? Remember .. I'm know to this scene .. I thought that a DC-DC PS was just like a PS in a desktop PC that it has plugs for a Motherboard on it .. it just accepts DC from the car instead of AC ... please clarify...
..also .. where can I find such a thing and how much do they run?
A dc-dc for a laptop would be a bit different then a dc-dc for a full pc.
for a full pc, the DC-DC replaces the whole psu, but in a laptop, it only needs like 12v and 5v input (or something like that), not alll the other different voltages.
Project AutoBoxen: Coming along, almost ready to hook up in the car.
Celeron 500, 192mb ram, 8gb hdd, other stuff.
'91 Mazda 626: Its free, so ill use it.