Troll all you want Aaron, I don't know about the rest of you but I found that little banter to be full of information that I would have otherwise had to research.
As you will,
Sure seems like a troll to me. A serious post which was simply interested in informing a possible (I've been reading this forum for 4+ months and have read archived messages back 1+ years) new user would be something more along the lines of "you might want to check into a DC-DC inverter, it has many benefits".To cure all inverter problems, switch to a DC-DC converter.
But that's not what you did. You trolled. Deny if it you wish.
I'm done with this thread also.
Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
Troll all you want Aaron, I don't know about the rest of you but I found that little banter to be full of information that I would have otherwise had to research.
Got started with computers on this board early in high school...now I run a web development company and am about to build my dream machine.
Ok thats it, I have to step in now damnit. I agree with Aaron. DC-DC is the way to go. DC-AC-DC for one thing, is stupid and a waste. Believe me, in the long run u will have problems and will end up switching to DC-DC. I have seen this so many times here on this board with ppl that even HAD inverters argued at first and then had problems after problems and when the switched to DC-DC, everything works. I have argued with quite a few ppl about this topic before... it is nothing new. In the long run they ended up using DC-DC. Now if you also want to talk about OS, i can tell u for sure Linux is OK, but Personally i really dont think it is READY for the average joe user out there. Interms of support for hardware, linux don't come close to windows. Ever wonder y u don't c alot of linux car mp3 stuff. And even if they exist think about the type of functionality they provide. I also like the argument about Windows crashes and linux don't. Ever REALLY wonder why that is??? Now if u guys really want to argue any of these things, i am available and will give u my side from a programmers view. I will leave it at his and say to both of you. GET ARISE ace-865v psu its only $79 and makes a big diff. Oooh just so u know, if u really want to convert or make that +3.3v that u need with that ATX box, yes u can do. Dude just go over to sproggy page or ask Aaron he can tell u how to.
abcd-1
Author of CobraI,II,III and now CobraIV.
You can contact me on AOL instant messenger....nick is cenwesi or cenwesi3
I've used an inverter for just about two years now.. same one too.. Works GREAT and I have never had any problems.. Take that as it is.
DC-DC is more efficient of course, but the inverter is simpler (not electrically, just in terms of use). I chose an inverter because I did not want to have to swap out the supply or have a 12VDC supply to use the computer in the house. I also occasionally plug other devices into the inverter.
I am currently building a second car computer for my girlfriend and I probably will be going DC-DC to try it, but I think both work fine.
I'm just here to say....
Quantum drives are ****, buy a SEAGATE, because they actually work under all sorts of abuse. I've proved it.
Inverter vs DCDC. I use both (one type in each player), and I say use whatever you have....if you mod the inverter it's efficient enough, mine runs for 8hours off the batteryBut DCDC just "feels" nicer. My inverter is far more reliable than my DCDC.
Anyway... CHILL Dudes...
BjBlaster! Car MP3 & Carputer!
bjblaster.com
"The solution to one problem is only the beginning of another"
Aaron Cake's posts are very knowlegable, informative and helpful. I have found them to be very reliable as they many times corroborate my own knowlege drawn from experience. He has been, for the most part, a model member of the board and has shared liberally.
So if he wants to let go with a "troll" comment occasionally, it's fine by me. He's earned it.
It only takes a tiny fraction of self control to just ignore the post if you don't agree with it.
I used an inverter in my previous setup, but went to DC-DC for several reasons:
- When I started the car the inverter wouldn't get enough voltage to keep running and the computer would reboot.
- 60Hz noise was everywhere. If I didn't ground every single piece of equipment connected to it, the noise would get into my system. This was not good.
- It didn't make sense to me to convert 12VDC to 110VAC and then back down to DC. Much less efficient. My current setup with a custom DC/DC draws under 2.5 Amps running. With an inverter the draw was more like 5 Amps.
I work with electronics daily and have engineered many projects over the years, some of which have been used in commercial products. From my point of view (and Aaron's), using a DC-DC converter is the most logical and efficient method to power a computer in the car. All car audio equipment employs DC-DC conversion technology, so it makes sense to go that route. Even car amplifiers have high-current DC-DC converters inside them to provide the necessary power.
And it doesn't take any complicated connector or screwdriver to disconnect a DC-DC supply. I used a simple twist-lock connector in my design that allows me to disconnect it with a twist of my wrist. It's almost faster than unplugging a normal AC plug.
For running in the house I have a 12VDC power supply that plugs in the wall and has the same mating twist-lock connector as the car setup has. Of course I use a network connection to manage the PC in the car, so I rarely need to take it inside unless I'm upgrading it.
I agree with the others about Aaron - his responses are always well mannered and logical. He, like myself, has been into electronics for quite some time now, and he really knows his stuff. Just check his website to see the many projects he has undertaken.
In my opinion, maybe you should listen to him instead of taking what he says the wrong way. You might even learn something.
I just want to make it clear that I never said or implied that all of Aaron's posts have no value.
I also do not believe that people are infallible and do not make mistakes in judgement.
I believe he made a mistake and I admit I jumped down his throat for it. I stand by that.
But I still (and always have) appreciated his informative posts on most topics. As a reasonably intelligent human being, I'm able to distinguish between a bad choice/action by someone and a person with a bad character.
Anyway, I just wanted to make it clear that I don't think Aaron is some evil person who should be ignored or shunned.
Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
JShrieve,
I was wondering if you were from Shreveport, LA. I was just wondering if that was what your name stood for. Just asking
Thanks,
Jack Mode
No, it's my last name with the first letter of my first name before it.
Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
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