I have a switch on mine, and it whines too. I have no idea what causes it. If it doesn't start up, I flip it off, wait a sec, then turn it back on, and everything works.
I've had my system working pretty good, with the amp remote turn on lead attached to the radio switched 12v and the inverter attached to the cigarette lighter circuit.
When I turn on the accessory line, the computer and amp start up fine.
I just added some switches (
switch schematic), one for the amp remote turn on and one for the inverter.
The amp remote turn on works great. However when I turn on the inverter power, the inverter lets out a pitched whine. No wires get hot, the computer does not get power, the power switch on the inverter does not illuminate.
If I toggle the power switch on the inverter, after a few times it'll turn on without whining. The inverter power switch light will illuminate and the computer will go. But if I flip the switch I installed, no matter how many times I flip it, the inverter always whines and doesn't start up.
What could be going on? It's a simple switch. 12v from the lighter circuit (supply), line to the inverter (load) and line to ground (earth).
I never experienced this problem before the new switch. It's odd how flipping the inverter power switch (and only that switch) a few times will cause it to operate normally. Ideas?
Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
I have a switch on mine, and it whines too. I have no idea what causes it. If it doesn't start up, I flip it off, wait a sec, then turn it back on, and everything works.
I have a sima inverter, and it makes the beeping noise. After experimenting with mine and one of my friend's, i found that the car engine has to be running for 4-5 seconds before you can turn on the inverter from the switch, else it beeps the overload beep. I think this has to do with either the capacitors in the inverter needing to be charged up, or the fact that the car alternator needs to be running at speed to provide the current needed by the inverter. Either way, you need some sort of delay switch. You could probably buy a delay switch from some electronics supply, or do what I am doing, mount a remote switch on your front panel that sets off a relay to power on the inverter. The advantage of this is you can turn off your computer if you are not listening to it (I leave it off when i'm not in the car because there are other people who drive my car.)
Thanks for the tip guys. I'll give a try while driving.![]()
Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
To cure all inverter problems, switch to a DC-DC converter.
Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
"If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."
I'm gonna switch hopefully. I have 3 plugins that need to be resolved first. Once I get my other stuff in, it will be 5 plugs.
The computer shouldn't be a big problem. I do get low noise from the inverter at max volume. It's the actual inverter, nothing else causing it.
One of these days I will switch. But for now I have no choice but to use one.
The switched worked without problem while driving. Thanks.
As for a DC-DC power supply, it'd be nice but in the long run it'd end up beng a lot more work and only a little benefit for me.
I barely get any noise on my setup, with just grounds (I could probably ground them even better, really). The noise is so faint that even at high volume with no music playing, I can't hear it while the engine is running.
Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
Ok, it sounds as if you didn't run thick enough wires for your inverter.
I have a 600watt PortaWatz, and I actually ran 4 gauge wire straight to my battery.
I know the Portawatz brand is supposed to beep when it can't draw enough electric.
Clarion 200watt head unit w/ Aux in.
Kicker 800watt 4 channel amp
In a 96 Grand Prix SE.
I wire I ran is more than thick enough. The problem was what Arby and Crast suggested. The engine needs to be running or the inverter won't turn on reliably.
My inverter doesn't need to wait a few seconds after the engine has started -- the engine just needs to start.
My switches are working great now.
Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald
How's that again? Let see, to use a DC-DC converter:Originally posted by jshrieve:
As for a DC-DC power supply, it'd be nice but in the long run it'd end up beng a lot more work and only a little benefit for me.
-get DC-DC (Arise, etc.)
-swap existing power supply
-connect 2 wires
-throw out inverter, say "good bye" to noise
Complicated, eh?
Benefits?
-more stable
-more efficient
-smaller
-produces less heat
-no noisy fan
-will run for hours with the car off
-will run while the car is being started
-no noise
Disadvantages?
-Uh, cost ($75)
Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
"If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."
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