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Thread: 4 Subwoofers for Home use

  1. #1
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    4 Subwoofers for Home use

    Hi,
    I currently have 4 10" subwoofers (400W RMS, 4Ohms) that was meant for my car and would like to use them for home audio equipment (I'm a bass freak, sorry :P).

    I currently don't have an amplifier to power the subs at the moment as I'm trying to work out what is the best solution for me. Ideally I would like to make full use of the subs power. But have been away from audio setups for a while.

    Is the best way to buy a 4 channel car amp (would 100W per channel be powerful enough?) and use a computer PSU to power it? I only want the subs for bass and rumble as they have low freq. output, mids and highs would be from other sound setup, so I could use a mono (single channel) amp.

    Are there any USB soundcards built for this purpose? That can power the subs, even 2 subs would be OK.

    Are there any amps that have a 12V DC jack like this one? Are they any good? they only have a laughable 40W RMS power but save quite a bit of wiring hassle.

    Sorry for so many questions.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Since you're going to have to build a box (or boxes) for these speakers anyway, something like these should work for you:

    http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...AT&srchCat=505

  3. #3
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    Wow, I've never seen dedicated sub amps before. But they are quite expensive compared to a mono amp with the same output power. Are there any other suggestions?

  4. #4
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    Expensive? Really? On that page is an amp that will put out 540W RMS into 4 ohms for $250. Or 1024W RMS for $425. Can you find a car audio amp that can put out the same power into 4 ohms (not 2 or 1 ohm) for cheaper?

  5. #5
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    They generally are cheaper, I've just looked for 2 minutes on ebay and found TL-1022 class D monoblock brand new for just under $200 (i'm in ).
    Specs are.
    Output Power (14.4v)
    1 x 4,000 watts Max (@ 1 ohm)
    1 x 1,500 watts RMS (@ 1 ohm THD+N < 2.5%)
    1 x 950 watts RMS (@ 2 ohm THD+N < 2%)
    1 x 600 watts RMS (@ 4 ohm THD+N < 1%)

  6. #6
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    I had a whole nice response to this, and then bumped the wrong button.....

    Go with the home theater type sub amp- you will be saving your sanity, and a couple bucks in the long run.


    A computer power supply that is hefty enough to run a 400-500 watt amp will be over $100

    for referance, I have a 350 watt computer power supply that lists the 12v rail max at 25 amps. I have sent the power supply into protection mode at half volume using a pioneer deh-p3500(22watts rms/50max X 4 channels). It is simply just not worth the hassle

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    If I get maybe a 400W PSU to power a monoblock, I guess that would be enough, since monoblocks don't require as much power? Because I've got my eye on an old alpine digital monoblock amp, and I've heard they are better then traditional style amps?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wonga View Post
    If I get maybe a 400W PSU to power a monoblock, I guess that would be enough, since monoblocks don't require as much power? Because I've got my eye on an old alpine digital monoblock amp, and I've heard they are better then traditional style amps?

    please, please, please, don't do it. you are correct that a digital amp will take SLIGHTLY less power, but 400 watts is still 400 watts(there could be whole 'nother thread in the difference between the types of amps).

    remember-- most amps require 8, 4, or even 0 gauge wire from the battery to work properly. a computer power supply usually has 16 or 18 gauge wire coming out of it-- barely enough to get enough juice to a amp that size to let it turn on.


    apparently you didn't understand my post with the example of the car stereo-- according to the numbers on the power supply, and the fuse ratings on the hu, it is more than adequate to power a 200 watt stereo, but will not.

    for referance:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-009-_-Product
    it is a 1000 watt power supply, listed at $159-- the specs say that there are 2-12 volt rails that will take up to 30 amps. now, assuming that you can tie the rails together(it might not allow you to do this), it should give you 60 amps, but it only has 18 gauge wire coming out of it, so you will still need to figure out how to hack the power supply to allow for more current.

    using this power supply, which will still not be adequate for high loads like a amp, you will just barely be able to make a 400 watt amp work, but no more than 1/2 volume, and also must limit the low frequencies-- otherwise, on very low bass, the PS will also turn off-- even at 1/4 volume.

    the power supply alone is about half the cost of the home theater sub amps that kross listed. you will be saving yourself so much time, sanity, and money, you'll have to buy a couple of movies just for something do in the extra time you saved.

  9. #9
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    OK, thanks soundman, i'll take your advice, and try and get a home sub amp like the ones kross mentioned. But how do you explain all the tutorials, videos etc. with the people that have a car amp + PSU setup?

    Also do brands matter, or are specs more important for sub amps?
    Thanks for your help.

    Edit:
    I'm having trouble trying to source these sub amps. As the site above they all have an input voltage of 120VAC U.S. standard, where as I'm in the U.K using 240VAC, thus not knowing about these things before as I don't think they're quite popular here. Does anybody know of a U.K source to get these? I've looked on ebay, there are only a few, and aren't very powerful (about 150W) for around $50.

  10. #10
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    using a computer power supply will work, and there are ways to make it work, it is just adding another piece of equipment to a build, that is not meant to be used that way-- and will seriously limit the output of the subs.


    Deleted: rest of post was random misc. ramblings from the crazy corner...

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