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Thread: always on method

  1. #11
    licensed to kill - FKA kev000
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    Quote Originally Posted by krillik View Post
    well thanks guys but i would rather not use the sheeva plug because i do not want to use an inverter. and ive looked at the fit2pc but im not looking to spend money like that. hoping for a lower cost solution. and i have no experience with circuits. but i know a little about electricity and i know how to solder. lol
    the sheeva takes 5v DC in so you can easily remove the stock power supply and get a dc-dc power supply for it. That's what I plan on doing.
    Former author of LinuxICE, nghost, nobdy.
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  2. #12
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    kev000 i am reading your thread as we speak. I dont plan on using linux bc im not very good with it. ill be using winxp vortex. still trying to see how ur going to get yours done and see if i can maybe use some ideas that you have. as far as your proximity thing. im going to do the same with an arduino and a nike footpod. saw it on spark fun

  3. #13
    FLAC
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    You might want to look into getting a yellow top instead. The red top batteries are only meant for starting. If you regularly cycle it, it will definately die very soon. How many hours do you spend driving a day because that is going to be an important in determining if you will be able to charge up the battery faster than it's being drained? Another benefit to the optima series batteries is that they can charge up much faster than a normal battery, assuming your alternator has enough juice.

  4. #14
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    well when i decided to get a new battery iw anted to get a yellow top but autozone told me they did not make yellow tops for my car. im probably being gullible but yea. lol and i also know my alternator isnt very good. and i cant purchase a new one for my car seeing as any other one than the original gives the ECU a headache


    *EDIT*
    i used to work for ATT Uverse as a prem tech, i have backup batteries used in on those systems which typically last for 4hrs but ive seen them last up to 12. they are 12volt batteries that i think i could some how encorporate into my system as to not drain the main battery and have a regulated slow discharge on them and have them recharege when the car is running. and a day total i spend about 3-4 hrs driving

  5. #15
    FLAC
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    Using some conservative numbers here..but assuming you drive for 3 hrs a day and the battery can accept a charge rate of 5 amps per hour (in reality the battery accepts charge based on how big and drained it is), then youve got 15 amp hours to work with. The system will be on battery for 24 - 3 = 21 hrs a day. 15Ahr * (1/21hr) = 0.71 amps. Basically what this means is that you should aim for a power consumption of less than 0.71 amps (less than 8.5 watts) and you should be good. Very rough numbers of course...

  6. #16
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    hm. well thanks nobb. i get it a bit now lol

  7. #17
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    http://www.batterytender.com/

    The type of battery redtop/yellowtop should be completely inconsequential. I ran my car off of a dry cell battery for about 6 months. -Unless they don't make one in the proper size which would be surprising.

  8. #18
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CapnBoost View Post
    http://www.batterytender.com/

    The type of battery redtop/yellowtop should be completely inconsequential. I ran my car off of a dry cell battery for about 6 months. -Unless they don't make one in the proper size which would be surprising.
    the type of battery, relative to the load can be a huge deal-- drawing a non-deep cycle battery down to low will hurt it, and possibly damage it permenantly-- which could require a new battery...

    a deep cycle battery could still have the same issues if way overdrawn(much more than a standard battery), but is designed for a much deeper discharge, and will recover and can end up saving money by not having to replace batteries every couple of months.

    and just something to keep in mind-- the optima batteries have been huge in the aftermarket arena because of them being completly sealed, but have a drawback-- they will provide less voltage for constant-draw devices than what a standard car battery will-- because of the cylinder plate design. not a huge deal, just something to keep in mind...

  9. #19
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    ahh see i didnt know that. yea they told me they didnt make the size i needed. i thought it was bs. but who knows this was a year ago.

  10. #20
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    technically, they don't make/recommend one for my car either-- i took the old battery in to the store, and compared size, and got the one that was closest(the newer battery had better cca ratings though...)

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