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Thread: Converting a Sony RM-X5 to work like the RM-X4, please help!

  1. #1
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Converting a Sony RM-X5 to work like the RM-X4, please help!

    After seeing RipplingHurst's Sony RM-X series remote, I fell in love. It has so many buttons that make it easier for me to use in the car, since mine did not come with audio controls. When I went to buy it though, I didn't pay attention to it and bought the wrong version. Here is the one everyone uses:



    As you can see it has a wire that makes it connectible to things. My version though is the wireless hi-ir version which has no cable.



    Where mine gets taller is a IR thingy. Well apparently Mitch made a device that interfaced with this thing, but it was long ago and wasn't very popular. I don't know why though because this thing has way more abilities to control things with so many buttons and button combinations.

    So I guess my question is how hard would it be to redo this thing to work on an old controller? i want to connect the buttons to corresponding buttons on the controller, then use XPander to map the keys to certain keyboard keys.

    Has anyone else tried this? Any thing I need to know to help me along? i am wondering if maybe the RM-X5 is simply a RM-X4 with simply a IR module added to it?
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  2. #2
    FLAC
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    Do you have any IR receivers? You may simply be able to use an IR receiver and Girder on your PC. It may actually be easier to do the IR version rather than the wired version.
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    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    Do you have any IR receivers? You may simply be able to use an IR receiver and Girder on your PC. It may actually be easier to do the IR version rather than the wired version.
    My understanding is that the X5 uses a special IR, called HI-IR which is different then standard IR.

    PS: If I had the X4, another thing I could do is buy a joycon and that would work. Im just scared the X5 isnt that easy. I think I am going to have to take this thing apart. Who knows it may just be that piece connected to a wire on the inside. So taking that back piece off means I can use it on a joycon and eliminate a controller all together!
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    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    OK, I took it apart.... on the outside it looks like its going to be complicated, but its actually a very simple device. Here are pictures:



    Here is the top of the circuit:



    Here is the bottom that i guess I have to work with. One set of wires is for a switch to make the device a left or a righty. The other 3 wires went to the IR wheel. Is this what I would connect to the Joycon? Also do I still need to use the battery? My logic says the battery is only for the IR part. Can someone confirm the RM-X4 doesnt use a battery?

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    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    I wonder what the wires do, maybe one is power for the IR, one is ground and the final is data? What instruments do I need to test?
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  6. #6
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    a O-scope would be about the only way to see the data, but you should be able to use a dmm to measure for voltage..

    also, from what i read, the joy con senses different reistances-- so it won't work just with the ir data pulses, but from what i understand, girder is can do many things- so might work better(i know, one more program...)

    also, depending on how far you want to hack the unit up, it looks like those buttons might be resistive, so you would just need to tie into each individual button before the controller(that makes the signals a digital for the ir...) to use a joycon...

  7. #7
    Mod - iPad Forums RipplingHurst's Avatar
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    Sorry, I'm late to the party. Yes, no batteries on my remote! As I PM'ed you before, 3 wires comes from the RM-X2S/X4S, one ground and two with data.






    This is it:










    So I would try to red/white and black wire, connecting it to the Joycon. It's easier to figure it out which wire is it AFTER you buy the Joycon, because then you can see how the resistence varies when you press the buttons. Same thing with the toggle switch, it may, or may not work with Joycon, depends on how it affects the resistance. If it does not, JoyCon won't do anything about it, so for full functionality, your best bet may be to use Girder.

    You might find this link interesting too:

    http://llg.cubic.org/tools/sonyrm/

    It shows the resistance values of all buttons, plus what the wires mean. Also this:

    The RM-X2/3/4S are absolutely identical, they only come with different
    text labels because they were designed for different radios.
    The two trapezoid and the one rectangular button on the bottom
    half later came with adhesive labels to save production costs, the top
    twist knob on the x3s is labelled for an autoreverse cassette
    deck.


    The X5S is technically the predecessor of the X6S and interchangeable
    for most radios. Both the 5 and the 6 are using high-speed infrared
    codes, and are not usable with lirc
    (serial link is too slow). Though there might be a chance to get them
    to work through an IR-DA port (4 Mbit). While the X6S looks like a
    hockey puck, the X5S' design is identical to the X2/3/4S, just with a
    2cm high base for the transmitter.
    With a link to a hack of the RM-X6S

    Hope this helps.

    RH.

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