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Thread: Issue with Alternator Noise through Car PC

  1. #41
    Raw Wave
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    In response to a few pesterings...
    Refer to earlier replies (else the "other" thread) for full explanations.
    PS... My responses follow the quoted segments. (The /Quote function inserts a new line...)

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    using a relay is still technically paralleling tho..
    Yes, of course it is. So what?

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    Likewise I am not rich.. When I cant afford an isolator i'd use one in a second.
    Good. The UIBI is probably the cheapest "automated" battery isolator.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    But in my application with the computer the loads need to be separate.. completly. Large lights, starter ect all effect my car pc..
    Well you must have a bad set-up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    Large lights, starter ect all effect my car pc..
    Starting has no effect on PCs using the UIBI.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    so with my experience with the isolator I dont have the voltage drop when cranking because their separate.
    Exactly the same as the UIBI.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    Yea I know a switch on the relay works but then they still are parallel when charging so banging the amps loud can bring down the both batteries and make the car pc blip off enough to reboot.
    I thought you said a switch does NOT work? If the amp brings down the PC, then use a diode for the PC battery only, or get a suitably sized alternator.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    So I am happy with it and hope it does last. <snip> Nothing like using a relay and have more CCA in the winter.. the ability to flip your switch and start a dead car.. I have used it.. works quite well..
    So have we! I merely costs ~$2 extra for the switch!

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    ...but not efficient enough to me for true isolation.. Piece of mind knowing my brand new yellow top never sees the used one under the hood is pricessless and worth the voltage loss to me. My alt is cranking 15v so I dont notice the loss anywho
    Same as the UIBI. Of course if your system has a bad battery and the alternator is therefore or otherwise dipping below ~12.6V, then I empathise with your problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    BTw who hijacked the thread? I posted about an isolator... you said 260a who uses them nowadays... So of course I am gonna comment
    YOU did! This thread had been dead for over one year! It was about alternator noise. You awaken it about an isolator that has no impact on alternator noise.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    My comment about you being right was being a smart azz..
    I know, but I took that and fired it right back.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    you tell me how I can get true separation (or current flowing in 1 way on my batteries) and i'd be willing to give it a try.
    If you want one-way current, then use a diode isolator. If you want a modern "battery isolator", then use a UIBI else a voltage switching isolator. Both can use solid-state switching but usually don't because of greater expense, lower reliability, and higher resistance. And why anyone would want separation ....!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    Also how many amps is your alternator is it greater then 260? I dont know about you but having the amps that your relay carries does risk fire and surge because they are still paralled so you explain your setup,, Draw a diagram..
    It's currently a 90A alternator. See my UIBI posts for diagrams. The fuses protect against fire, the same fuses protect diode isolators and their distribution. (Since nobody wants a 260A diode with over 1 volt across it burning out - that's already nearly 300W of heat!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    isolators (diode type) are self explanitory... LEg 1 leg2 alternator.. Simply put it works with a voltage loss which is not noticable. Even distribution of amps and batteries never ever ever ever see one another even durring charging.
    Obviously they are not self explanatory. A 1V loss is not noticeable? Then get rid of their heatsinks! Even charging? How can they when the batteries receive two different voltages? And yes, you have to modify the OEM alternator to battery link, introduce that 1V drop, use a remote sensing alternator (ie, not a D+ type), etc etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    I know because I had a dead optima on the second leg for the longest and it never brought down the bat on leg one..
    Probably because it was not being recharged properly, that's why it failed. That's one reason diode isolators have fallen out of favour. If the Optima is being charged at 1V less then the main battery....

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    Had this been a relay, or paralled the bad battery would have shorted the good one (running or otherwise) soon as you threw the switch..
    You mean YOUR switch. The standard UIBI and voltage-sensing isolator has no switch.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    Hence why I advise AGAINST the relay unless thats all you got, or your goal is paralleling with option to separate, drain, and throw back in for a fast charge which does hurt the whole electrical system..Might as well be giving the neighbor that has a bad battery a jump every morning, or 6 times a day for that matter.. Ever time you drain, and re-parallel (Which is what your doing from what I am understanding) you are hurting your batteries.. I'd truthfully rather leave them paralled so they drain equily vs separate and drain as I post above..
    Totally missed....

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    I have seen batteries explode doing just this..
    You have seen batteries explode when connected by a UIBI or voltage-sensing isolator?? No - you have seen batteries explode when being jumpered etc. The rest is discussing you switch system which is exactly the type I argue against for all the reasons you faithfully keep repeating.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    I was lucky..
    I know! But I would never recommend paralleling 2 idling batteries unless the user knows what they are doing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simbalage22 View Post
    So is a relay cheap, yes... are there better ways yes.. does it work.. yes.. but personally if I had to i'd parallel and just reep the rewards of having double runtime vs using a relay.. Or use an isolator to separate and if the 0.3v doesnt effect you have true separation the way it was meant. If your alternator is more the 260a then I could see why one would not want to use an isolator... But 260a charging is alot
    I think the logic is lost....
    Last edited by OldSpark; 09-06-2011 at 05:23 AM. Reason: PS...

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