Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18

Thread: Strange USB Issues - USB Doesnt "Stay Alive" In Car

  1. #11
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    on the border of northern IL/IN
    Posts
    5,820
    Quote Originally Posted by mnwcsult View Post
    Go into Control Panel. I am presuming you are using Windows as your OS.

    Select System, then Device Manager. Find "Universal Serial Bus controllers" and click on the plus to open it.
    it might be easier to right click on 'my computer' and go to 'manage', but either solution will get you to device manager...

  2. #12
    Variable Bitrate we87's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    404
    Quote Originally Posted by mnwcsult View Post
    Go into Control Panel. I am presuming you are using Windows as your OS.

    Select System, then Device Manager. Find "Universal Serial Bus controllers" and click on the plus to open it.

    You are looking for "USB Root Hub", you will have as many as you have hubs. Click on the first one, the click the Power tab. It will tell you whether the hub is self powered or powered. And the Total amount of power available: 500 mA per port. So a four port hub "should" be able to sink 2000 mA, or 2A. Thats 2A times the number of four port hubs available.

    You will also see what devices are attached and their Power Requirements. Say a Bluetooth adapter around 50 mA. Another hub connected to it 400 mA. USB hard drive 500 mA.

    My guess is that the ones drawing 500 mA can probably draw a lot more. I have a hauppauge USB TV stick. It's documentation suggests that it be on a hub by itself if the hub is unpowered. Experience shows me it can coexist on a powered hub with a Bluetooth adapter.

    I also have a Seagate FreeAgent USB drive that derives all of it's power from the hub and can be the only thing living on it powered or otherwise.

    What is happening is that certain devices will draw more current than their ratings show, hard drives in particular. And will monopolize the entire hub.

    You will have to try different combinations to see what is actually stable. You may also want to power all of the hubs through a voltage regulator.

    Good Luck
    Thank you very much for all of the information.

    Well after the writing of my last post in this thread I did go into device manager and for the USB devices I clicked the power tabs and set everything to >NOT< turn this device off... They were all set to disable or turn off the device to save power or something like that.

    Now at the moment, I havent had any issues. But I have noticed that sometimes at boot up, the four port hub does not "initialize" itself it windows properly and the device manager shows it with a yellow question mark, indication "this device has malfuntioned". After a restart, it all works fine again.

    What I have in the hub is Lilliput, USB GPS, and an empty extension cables for easy input of a flash drive.

    I am going to test this for a few days and if I still have issues, I will try replacing the hub with another brand and see what happens.
    Carputer Progress
    [||||||||||] 100%
    Finally Installed!!
    Everything is in the car and working.
    I painted the cilpboard mount and it looks good.
    Shutdown/Startup is working excellent!
    View My Progress Here

  3. #13
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Florence Yall, BFKY
    Posts
    2,684
    Let's stay within specs. usb_20.pdf 7.2 A (2.0) high powered device can use no more than 500mA and assume no more is available. Low power should be no more than 100mA. The power listings in Windows will show the maximum each device defines itself as using, and is often less when running and more on inrush, usually when starting. A hub is usually going to use 100mA, leaving 400mA to its ports when not self powered. Although there is an exception. Many motherboards now allow for much more from the root hub's ports, but the problem is that most hubs have current limiting built in so they are still limited to the 500mA max.

  4. #14
    FLAC
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Dartmouth, MA
    Posts
    914
    Why not just hook the GPS up directly to the computer?

    Also, from experience, it isn't such a good idea to put the monitor on a USB hub. It's one more thing to go wrong and the screen is your input when driving. If the hub craps out and music is blaring you're screwed.
    My Nearly Complete Car:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

    Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
    http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

    Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
    http://paulfurtado.com/

  5. #15
    Variable Bitrate we87's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    404
    In the begining the screen was on it's own USB. Then when I got the GPS it was easier to get a hub and attach it up front without running a seperate line. Plus I didn't think it was that big of a deal. I use a ATI Remote Wonder in the car for volume and track skip, etc. So just in case I do have a physical mute button

    I recently ran a old SCSI cable from the front to back to give me some wires. The cable has like 25 leads in it. So I might wire everything seperate a d just do away with the hub all together. I just use alot of USB.
    Carputer Progress
    [||||||||||] 100%
    Finally Installed!!
    Everything is in the car and working.
    I painted the cilpboard mount and it looks good.
    Shutdown/Startup is working excellent!
    View My Progress Here

  6. #16
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Florence Yall, BFKY
    Posts
    2,684
    Ah, so 2 out of 3 of my scenarios were correct?

    The problems started when the hub and long USB cables were installed.

  7. #17
    Variable Bitrate we87's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    404
    Well I had the exact same setup before on another computer I had before, with the hub not connected to a power source. After I hooked the hub up to a 5v line, my issues seemed to go away.

    That still doesnt explain why it worked in the house without the 5v line attached, but if its working now its hard to complain
    Carputer Progress
    [||||||||||] 100%
    Finally Installed!!
    Everything is in the car and working.
    I painted the cilpboard mount and it looks good.
    Shutdown/Startup is working excellent!
    View My Progress Here

  8. #18
    FLAC
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Dartmouth, MA
    Posts
    914
    The difference is that now there is interference to deal with in the car.
    My Nearly Complete Car:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

    Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
    http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

    Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
    http://paulfurtado.com/

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. HFP for Linux Bluetooth Hands Free
    By samr7 in forum Linux
    Replies: 105
    Last Post: 04-25-2012, 06:45 AM
  2. Replies: 9
    Last Post: 06-08-2006, 06:15 PM
  3. Problem with ITPS / hibernation and External USB HD
    By veetid in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-02-2006, 09:35 PM
  4. USB power issues - opinions please
    By zaxxon in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-20-2005, 11:03 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •