Thread: 12v rocker works; 12v rocker with ground...does not

^ that is to say, when measuring across the switch terminals.

Originally Posted by Archy88

The 12v(far left terminal) reads 10.75v. The center terminal(when switched on, LED DOWN) reads 10.75v.
The strange thing is...(This could be perfectly normal lol) the ground terminal reads 9.3v?! Is a ground supposed to do that?

I performed another test, I got the PC running without connecting the ground(so, just left terminal and center). Once the PC was on, I connected the ground and the PC actually shut down as if the car was powered off.

that is weird. i assume that you were holding the negative volt meter lead to a chassis bolt, and then metering the terminals? also, was that with the switch on or off? try both ways? if so, then that means where wherever that ground wire is attached is a bad ground-- try moving it to where the volt meter lead was attached.

Originally Posted by soundman98

^ that is to say, when measuring across the switch terminals.




that is weird. i assume that you were holding the negative volt meter lead to a chassis bolt, and then metering the terminals? also, was that with the switch on or off? try both ways? if so, then that means where wherever that ground wire is attached is a bad ground-- try moving it to where the volt meter lead was attached.

The lead was attached to a bolt beneath the rear seat with the switch on. I will try it with the switch off.

I also found a bulb to be used for my purposes, however, I am a full time student and work full time so my time is very limited during the week.

Thanks for keeping an eye on the post. I will post back within the next couple of days when I get a few minutes to give these suggestions a shot!

Originally Posted by OldSpark

Yes - exactly as you wrote. Instead of powering the grounded PC, you power the grounded bulb/light/load.

Can power from fused circuit, though for testing, just from battery to switch +, switch-A to light(+), and light(-) and switch-LED's GND to GND (battery -ve).

Fuse "should be" included, but if light/load is under switch rating, and cable handles the load, and wiring is correct and insulated, then "no risk". [Wear gloves else prepare do drop the switch quickly if it gets hot due to a faulty switch (but it isn't faulty in THAT way). And should really always use glasses (protective) for any test or new switch-on - besides, you'd look cooler in sunnies.]


Sorry for delay, but my weekend isn't yet over...

As I mentioned before, the 12v is from an accessory line. However, I tried the lighbulb trick and could not get the light to work(It looks OK, but I can't be sure the bulb is fine either lol).

then you'll need to test the bulb-- you can use a 9v battery or some wire leads and connect to the car battery.

Go to Autozone and buy another LED switch and try it. If that one also doesn't work, then your wiring job is wrong.

Originally Posted by Archy88

As I mentioned before, the 12v is from an accessory line. However, I tried the lighbulb trick and could not get the light to work(It looks OK, but I can't be sure the bulb is fine either lol).

Do it from battery+ - especially for PCs etc. It is much cleaner and independent of other circuits, and won't cut out when cranking.

I might have missed that you were powering from the ACC line, but that shouldn't have mattered - ie, the LED should not have added extra load for the ACC circuit to bog down etc.

A relay can be added later if you want it controlled by ACC (or IGN or manually - you simply use a diode to connect all your sources).

Thanks guys. The PC itself is powered directly from the battery.

The ACC line which we are speaking of only controls the signal wire. The switch is simply a valet switch to keep the pc from turning on(obvious statement of the day lol).

I tried the bulb using a battery and it does work. So then i tried using the battery as a ground while in the car and it still fails to work.

I should note that i have the amplifiers connected to another one of these switches and it works just fine even though it is just a signal wire.

The acc line I am using for the PC is the convertible fuse(I dont have a convertible so it gets no use besides the PC) and is rated as a 15a fuse.

i think it was as suspected at first-- it is a bad switch.