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Thread: SPDIF or TOSlink on an all in one 12v ready computer?

  1. #1
    req
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    Question SPDIF or TOSlink on an all in one 12v ready computer?

    Hey guys,

    I have been into building pc's for years, and i have been doing mobile media and car audio for a while. i have a pretty serious car audio competition vehicle and i want to use a carpc to control it. i have some good ideas - but i have been out of the PC game for a minute and all this mini ITX solutions are awesome.

    is there a solution like the products that the mp3car store have for sale that will give me a toslink or spdif coax output?

    thats really all i need, i would like to buy a barebones kit that will do that with a small form factor, and im willing to build it if i have to - but basically the features i need are;

    small form factor
    12v ready power supply
    wake-on
    possibly a battery to keep in hybernate
    digital audio output via spdif or toslink

    thats it, and the form factor is not concrete - but id like it to be small thats all.

    any help would be appreciative, i will keep looking in the interm!

    thanks everyone

  2. #2
    Constant Bitrate besjr69's Avatar
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    I use the toslink optical output of my MB. Works great and virtually noise-free.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate m2x0p9x's Avatar
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    What are you using to go from toslink to your cars audio system? Amplifier or converter of some kind? My new board has optical out and all the amps I could find that had toslink connections were discontinued or needed a head unit to control it.

  4. #4
    Constant Bitrate besjr69's Avatar
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    I am using a Sewell 5.1 Decoder. I built a 9VDC regulator for it. Default is 5.1. If not running a center channel will sound like crap. There is a little push button in it to convert to 4.1. I have It powered at all times. It has minimal drain if any on the battery. Also the output level is very good and clear. No distortion. It also has a output mute when no signal is detected. You will need this as most DACs output a loud noise when no input is received.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    req
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    Basically i have two Mosconi AS200.4 amplifiers, and currently i have an Alpine PXA-H701 that i am using an Alpine DVA-9861 with a TOSlink output to the outboard DSP. I want to bypass the DVA-9861 due to its limited capabilities - but i want to retain a digital signal chain and use the DSP for its high quality DA converter.

    Soon i will have a Helix P-DSP, and i will be using that.

    i dont want to build anything crazy, im going to be using the outboard DSP to control all the audio signal stuff - im just using the PC as an audio transport via digital TOSlink or SPDIF.

    so yea, i found a motherboard

  6. #6
    Constant Bitrate besjr69's Avatar
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    req,

    Seems you have everything you need. Maybe someday I'll be able to afford a PXA-H701 for my setup. Good luck to you.

    Bobby

  7. #7
    req
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    Quote Originally Posted by besjr69 View Post
    req,

    Seems you have everything you need. Maybe someday I'll be able to afford a PXA-H701 for my setup. Good luck to you.

    Bobby
    hey bobby,

    i actually have an H701 and a H700. I am also getting a Helix P-DSP in a trade from a guy i know, and in a few months ill swap that out with an arc audio PS8.

    I have a friend who is willing to sell me his motherboard\ram

    http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/...d-d2700dc.html

    and i have found a screen that looks plug and play

    http://www.mo-co-so.com/Double-DIN-M...700-mtc-dd.htm

    all i need is to get a DC to DC power supply that will regulate my alternator\battery output

    http://www.mini-itx.com/store/?c=10

    and a solid state hard drive. im thinking a 60gb drive will do the job.

    thoughts?

  8. #8
    Constant Bitrate besjr69's Avatar
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    Definitely on right path. I have the same display. Be warned it may be a little bit taller than a standard double din opening and may require customization. For power, I use the
    M2-ATX with the Zotac ION-ITX/FE MB. I also power my monitor off of the 12VDC rail of the power supply. Remote turn on for the amp is via a small com port utility. I think you'll be good with your selection.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    req
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    Thanks for the info besjr,

    I have a VW GTi right now, and it has an extra .75 inch tall opening because there is a slide out cup holder that i plan on putting a slot load DVD rom behind. ill just extend the facia of the dash fit down with some ABS and put a slot and some LEDs back there and call it a day. I will also put the analog volume pot on there to make it look stock and adjust the audio in the analog realm so i dont loose any bit-data on the input side of my digital signal processor.

    so basically i just need the case, the screen, the hard drive, and the power supply and im waiting on my friend to ship me the mobo\ram\cpu. it looks like this should go together fairly quick!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by req View Post
    Thanks for the info besjr,

    I have a VW GTi right now, and it has an extra .75 inch tall opening because there is a slide out cup holder that i plan on putting a slot load DVD rom behind. ill just extend the facia of the dash fit down with some ABS and put a slot and some LEDs back there and call it a day. I will also put the analog volume pot on there to make it look stock and adjust the audio in the analog realm so i dont loose any bit-data on the input side of my digital signal processor.

    so basically i just need the case, the screen, the hard drive, and the power supply and im waiting on my friend to ship me the mobo\ram\cpu. it looks like this should go together fairly quick!

    How's the build going req? I'm doing something extremely similar to yourself, using a m/b with toslink output to go directly to a H701. Did you end up using a mini-ATX? Which case did you use?


    thx,
    Oz

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