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Thread: Looking for a circiut board Genius!

  1. #91
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    There's no reason I cannot just connect my Ign +12 to the board and leave the red 12v wire from the OBDII cable disconnected is there?

    Also, what is the function of the jumper next to the board's USB Input?


    I am using the cigarette lighter's circuit as my Ignition +12v supply for my switched 12V because it has plenty current suitable for a heating device (10-15A), and is only available when the ignition is on. Oh, and my car did not actually come with a lighter in that socket, or ashtray, those are aftermarket accessories nowadays.


    For the next version, I would like to suggest the board add fused switched 12V and 5V utility outputs, and a switched USB 3 hub.
    Now that I have USB 3 ports on my cupholder console, transfering many gigs of music, or doing a full windows image backup to USB 3 thumbdrives goes very fast, and I canno ever do without USB 3 on a carpc.
    Last edited by rray; 07-26-2014 at 06:16 PM.

  2. #92
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    No reason at all rray. SNO

  3. #93
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    There are 7 port USB hubs available. If I am not mistaken you could actually have the power come from a regulated 5 volt source directly instead of the actual hub.

    On a site I am on they have an OTG cable connected to a powered hard drive from their android tablet. Normally the hard drive will not run directly from the Tablet only because the tablet can not produce the higher output needed. However they take a 2amp output USB from a USB battery pack and take the power and ground and splice it into the cable. They disconnect the power lead from the tablet. This then powers the hard drive fine and the tablet is happy too.

    Another variation you can get a Y OTG cable that hooks to the tablet and a battery pack or charger. This cable will allow the tablet and the device to be powered or charged from that battery pack or charger.

    I believe you only have to share the grounds for it to work properly. Regardless if you power the hub from the seperate power source and cut the wire from the computer or not.

    I am hard wiring a 2 amp USB charger to a 4 port powered hub I have. They just parallel the input with the computer power. I decided using a $7 USB charger and hack that up rather than trying to make a regulator board to do the same thing...

    If you use a 7 port USB hub you then can provide additional ports. Also would be cool if you could use USB 3 ports. They will work down to USB 2 if you want but for someone with USB 3 it would be a little nicer for the extra ports at least.

    I figure if you are adding a hub might as well go with a 7 port instead of 4 port if you can...

    Rodney

  4. #94
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Also, what is the function of the jumper next to the board's USB Input?
    JP3 is to disable the leds on is enable leds
    JP2 is to reset the NVM on the obd2 chip
    JP1 is LP out on the obd2 chip

    switch 2 is something to do with sleep on obd2 chip
    switch 1 is reset obd2 chip
    info in the microobd2 functions here http://www.scantool.net/dev-tools/mo...roobd-200.html down near the bottom stn11xx-powersave.pdf for info on jp1 and switch 2

    I just used their reference development design and it's not really used for basic obd2 stuff also check your inbox for link to schematics SNO

  5. #95
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    Hey sno, quick question for you.. I can't find a good place in my truck for the box.. I am thinking of getting some plastic stand offs and mounting the boards side by side on some perf board to mount them inside my dash. The height is a problem but if I make them short but long that isn't a problem. Just worried that leaving an exposed circuit board inside my dash might be a problem. Thinking of grabbing some acrylic and maybe making a sort of "sandwich" with the acrylic on the top of the box.

    Probably could just make two "sandwiches" and just use the acrylic box top and bottom as my new tops and make the perf board bottoms.


    Any suggestions?

  6. #96
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    I have mine under the rear seat where I have my computer, it is also central for the TPMS signal from the tires. I really don't see a problem makingit longer and extending the power and 4 wire jumper cable. remember you don't need to use the obd2 cable since you are only really using 4 wires out of the 8 canhi/canlo/12+/12- Good luck SNO

  7. #97
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    Wait a minute... The OBD II. I have a canbus based car, so I only need 4 wires? So, since I have IGN switched 12V and GND where my carpc is located, can I just tap into the Can Hi and Can Low wires on the backside of OBD II connecton and everything will work? If so it leaves the socket available and I only have to run a 2 conductor cable.

  8. #98
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    yes it's true! That's how mine is setup in my car, just tapped into the can hi/lo wires on back of obd2 plug. You really only need the plug if you are moving from car to car and they are all different ages and different protocols. More like a tester than fixed to car. SNO

  9. #99
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    Wow, how did I miss this thread.

    Nice work on the combo board Sno.

    If anyone is using this with RR and TPMS I have an updated version of the RR Plugin available from my site.

    Also if you want something added, let me know and I will see if it can be done.

  10. #100
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    So to be clear.. I only need an automotive +12 volt source.. Not a REGULATED +12 source.. So it could be 14.5 such as when my truck is running and this won't ruin the board? Truck is going to shop to get some work done to the drive train then I am going to be pulling everything apart to install your box into my truck somewhere. Is there any issue using the amp turn on port from the computer to power your box? I will be using the amp turn on to power a relay to use a solid automotive +12 volt source.

    Would love to mount it near my computer but very limited room in the console where I mounted the PC.

    Also, what are those spacers made out of? I may be trying to mount the boards separately as mentioned earlier but I realize now that I will need a spacer for the bottom of the top board if I do that. I can reuse all of the other spacers just need something for the bottom of the top board if I separate the boards into two modules.

    And yes I know it seems like I am taking forever to mount this.. LOL.. I am in process of moving slowly while just starting back up the next semester. Truck will be at a repair shop for a couple weeks then going to finish the full pc install when I get it back..

    Rodney
    Last edited by redheadedrod; 08-27-2014 at 12:00 AM.

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