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Thread: Looking for a circiut board Genius!

  1. #71
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    Thanks, I may just use the sensors I have then for now until I can get some new ones.

    Rodney

  2. #72
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Those I sent you should be around 40% and they seem to last awhile maybe drop a point every 2 or 3 months. In my truck are all around that level and didn't drop any over the winter. Mine are about 4 years old now and on their second set of tires that are almost done now too. SNO

    you can also replace just by breaking the bead seal and getting your hand in there once the new sensors come in

  3. #73
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    Ok thanks. I won't worry about them just yet then.

    I assume they display their remaining charge.

    Rodney

  4. #74
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    CF shows a bar graph type battery level, Driveline displays the actual % level not sure on RR though and there is also TPMS doctor but again not sure if it exposes the actual % SNO

  5. #75
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    I haven't had time until now to try the box I got from you again. At the moment I am trying to power up the unit with an old laptop power supply hooked to the ODB II port on the board as mentioned previously. (12 volt DC 2.7amp supply I verified the output before I hooked it up.)

    The USB port is hooked to the box from the computer.

    Some of the devices are seen by the computer and the GPS lights are flashing but the other LED's on the board its self are not flashing. I haven't tried to see if I can get the device drivers all loaded yet because I am concerned that none of the board LED's are lighting.

    I also had to slightly trim the holes on the GPS board because the holes were slightly smaller than the bolts you supplied and were not completely lined up.

    Any ideas?

    Rodney
    Last edited by redheadedrod; 06-14-2014 at 05:46 PM.

  6. #76
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    I hope you hook up the positive wire to the right slot on obd2 connector they are labeled in small silk screen on the board, you should have 3 lights on solid, 3.3v 5v 12v. what chips have you populated? obd2 phidgets SNO

    gps is getting power from usb that's why it's lights are flashing but no power getting to obd2 port

  7. #77
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    When testing do I need the USB port hooked up when powering the LED's?

    I used the picture earlier in this thread that pointed out the +12 and -12 and used that.. +12 being the +12 and -12 being the ground. On the ODB port of course.

    I tried it with the USB and the power hooked up.

    All of chips are populated short of the wireless backup sensor.

    The USB ports have the red going to the +5 and the green going to the gnd and the power cord is lined up the same from board to board.

    Here is a link to an album of pictures I took as I assembled the box:

    http://s934.photobucket.com/user/Rod...show/Sno%20Box

    A couple of pictures of the box in case you couldn't see the album...

    Top side of top board:
    Name:  20140614_164727_Android.jpg
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Size:  275.9 KB

    Top side of bottom board:
    Name:  20140614_164647_Android.jpg
Views: 62
Size:  329.0 KB

    Bottom side of bottom board:
    Name:  20140614_165137_Android.jpg
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Size:  291.3 KB

    I referenced this posting I placed earlier for the proper location of the power leads:
    http://www.mp3car.com/general-hardwa...ml#post1500814
    Last edited by redheadedrod; 06-15-2014 at 07:25 AM.

  8. #78
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Yes all looks good, no you only need obd2 power for the power lights to light up. I would check your power supply, sometimes those wall warts show 12v on a meter but once load is put on them they lose their power. Just a thought. This unit was from my Driveline test box so I know it was all functioning when I sent it out. Try a different PS and let me know the results or better yet plug into a obd2 port at least to see if that solves the power problem. or use a 12v battery just to test SNO

  9. #79
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    Tried two different supplies and got nothing.

    Tried a car style supply hooked into my RS power supply. One for a Liliput monitor that has a filtered input on it. The RS supply outputs 14 volts like a running vehicle would... Blew out the fuse on the adapter...

    I am tempted to see if I can just send this whole box to you and see if you can sort it out. I really don't want to blow something and end up with an expensive paper weight. Don't know if this would cause any issues since you are in Canada.

    To power this I used a socket I soldered a couple wires to and insured I knew which wire was which. I used heat shrink tubing to insulate the wires from one another. I tested it out with a VOM to insure the proper connections. The wires of course went to the box to the locations mentioned earlier.



    Rodney
    Last edited by redheadedrod; 06-15-2014 at 08:15 AM.

  10. #80
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    If you want to send back to me to see if anything is wrong or what is up .. send with your micro obd200 and phdget chips the wireless pdc is not required both parking sensors can be wired only 1 can be wireless. I will send you my address in a pm. SNO

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