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Thread: Looking for a circiut board Genius!

  1. #81
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    I have the box disassembled but have been working 16 hour days the past few days and haven't had a chance to try some things. I took just the bottom board and hooked it to a supply and it lit up... Grrr...

    The 3 power LED's stayed on... The Green, Yellow and Orange LEDs...

    The clear one did not light.

    The paired blue/red LEDS flashed.. One lit, went off then the other, then the other pair did the same. Looked like maybe the hub was powering up?

    So I am guessing at this point it is working but I will have to try hooking up things to it in steps and see what is going on. Hopefully I won't need to send it to you and it will work.. will be a couple days since I am now out of town.

    Rodney

  2. #82
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    Hi Sno, I have the 1.3 rev of board and started assy, but none of the component values are marked on the board... R1 = ??K, C15 = ??pF, etc. Was I supposed to get a list or download it from somewhere?

    Thanks,
    Robert

  3. #83
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Yes I remember you only got the bottom level with OBD2/TPMS/Phidgets/GPS the next level has front & rear parking sensors/ 1 free usb port. But like I say if you want to keep that for your other project I have single small boards just for parking sensors and I have the correct wireless kits you need but only in black sensors. If you wanted to get different coloured ones they are from the UK so you have exchange and duty and shipping. I am sure you can get a small aerosol spray can that matches your car colour, they can be painted without problems. $125.00 + shipping per set complete SNO

    Sorry forgot about the board info.. I should have sent you a excel page with numbers of location for the parts I labeled. If you don't have it get it here http://twintower.homeip.net/twintower/Board 1.3 bom.jpg
    Last edited by SNOtwistR; 07-25-2014 at 08:43 PM.

  4. #84
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    I have been researching front sensor placement on Camaro's and the ones I found really, REALLY look bad as evidenced in this thread at Camaro5: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42389

    I then thought maybe I could mount them in the splitter itself (front low spoiler), but am undecided as to how that might look, as there is little space so there might be sensor shaft protruding on the topside, and it's irreversible damage if I don't like it.


    There is another type called a Curb Alert that would work with an under splitter install, but it won't interface into the carpc:
    http://www.rpidesigns.com/images/curbaltert.jpg

    I just don't know if I should do it or not. I want my car to have all the toys, but it has to stay good looking too.

    I have all the obvious parts installed on the 4 in 1 board, but it's the small components that I can't guess placement on due to lack of part list identification.

  5. #85
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    I have all the obvious parts installed on the 4 in 1 board, but it's the small components that I can't guess placement on due to lack of part list identification
    Not all regs are the same be careful as to where the 3.3v (LD1173.3v) and don't replace this one with anything other than this part number as the pinout is different from other 7803 regs. And there is a difference in the 2 - 5v ones 1 is higher amps for the phidget board I think its 1.5 amp(7805c) the one for the obd2 is 5v .5amps Most circuit boards only have the id numbers on them not the actual resistance or capacity, but you do need the bom to put 2 and 2 together. Bom is in pervious post SNO

  6. #86
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    I finished assembly this morning following the BOM, and all the notes and tips posted.

    Next comes the testing phase. I assume this board gets it's power from the OBDII plug, as I cannot see any other 12V source connections, but if not using the power for second level header, can that be used as the 12V input to the board for both bench testing, and when the OBDII is not plugged in?

    Also, is is safe to leave the OBDII cable connected, and not find the main car battery drained if idel a couple weeks? (Sometimes I leave my car at the airport a couple weeks when on business trips)
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  7. #87
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Looks like it should hehe, I would supply 12v to the obd2 blue connector circuit board is marked with the pin allocation. See post 43 for pin position of 12v+ / 12v - SNO
    Last edited by SNOtwistR; 07-26-2014 at 01:22 PM.

  8. #88
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Also, is is safe to leave the OBDII cable connected, and not find the main car battery drained if idel a couple weeks? (Sometimes I leave my car at the airport a couple weeks when on business trips)
    I installed a relay and use ignition power to complete the 12v connection to the obd2 blue connector on the board. That way obd2 still has its power but all-in-one box is off. This will be addressed in the SMD version or 2.0 ver as it will be known. I have left my truck at airport park n fly for 7 days with it originally plugged in with no relay turn-on and it was fine for starting. I should also note that I don't use the obd2 connector on the cable I just run 4 wires and tap into the obd2 wires before the access port since I only use the can hi and lo pin 16 12v and pin 4 ground. SNO
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    Last edited by SNOtwistR; 07-26-2014 at 02:25 PM.

  9. #89
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    I would suggest a separate +12 volt supply tie in for your next version. Thus if one does not hook to the ODBII port they can still power the unit without tying into the ODBII system.

    Where possible it would be nice to have some of the pieces built into your boards instead of as plug in modules as well. Would be cheaper in the long run, more dependable since they would be soldered on the board and would take up less room on the circuit boards. (Not to mention if someone other than you is putting them together it is one less thing to have to install. )

    I do like the over all design of the boards but if I has a complaint that would be it. For what it is the boards are a nice setup.

    Other options I can suggest:
    Use terminals that have the tighten down screws the same direction as the terminals themselves. With the two board system you have to have a very long and very skinny flat screw driver right now to tighten or loosen the ODBII or phidget screws.

    Would be nice to have a supply for +12 and +5 volts from this board. I know you have them available on the board. The +12 volts can then be used to drive a video screen and the +5 could be used to run an external powered USB hub.
    Last edited by redheadedrod; 07-26-2014 at 02:49 PM.

  10. #90
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Thanks for the suggestions. The original design intent was to be used for the hobbyist and a 1 off client and have as little wires to the box, but really that goes out the windows when you start to add the wires for the phidget sensors/relays. I really hope to be taking this to the next level in the coming year. The next version whenever it comes to fruition will be having ignition turn on wire and maybe another couple of regs for such extra power ports as 12+ regulated and 5v for another hub/lighting as well as being smd chips. Some will not convert over though like the 1010 phidget chip, TPMS receiver or the microobd200 (I thought about using the other chip stn-1170 from scantool and will see if it is comparable to the microobd200) but the 4 port hub, pic and the ftdi chip will shrink substantially as well as the actual footprint of the boards, there should be no more hand soldering. On another note the "trucker board" might be going into production soon that will have the Xbee port as well as another TPMS for a total of 20 tires if everything works out. Nothing promised though it all depends on the actual cash in hand. SNO

    There are test points of 12+ unregulated, 5v and 3.3v on the board already but I will be adding an actual power port for bench testing on the next version
    Last edited by SNOtwistR; 07-26-2014 at 03:11 PM.

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