I think I'm going to start off with a video isolator transformer before I go digging around for the navs grounding point. I'm thinking of this one: http://www.amazon.com/C2G-41145-Comp...on+transformer
If that doesn't work I'm looking at: http://www.jensen-transformers.com/iso_vid.html at either Model VB-1RR or at something similar to Model VRD-1FF. Even though the bandwidth on a device like Model VRD-1FF is less than the other video isolation devices, I don't think the noise should be higher than 1300mhz.
If neither of those things work, then ill go hunting for the grounding point. Thoughts?
You can always try it... Its cheap enough for the second one that you won't cry too much if it doesn't work. Much more and you are better off looking at the external USB style video I mentioned earlier.
Personally I like the USB video adapter more than an isolation transformer but that will be your call about which you feel more comfortable with. At this point I wouldn't spend much money on anything like this unless you can return it.
You have a composite video input? I thought it was mentioned you had VGA...
You may be interested in this thread I just found as well:
I forgot you mentioned the USB video card. Ill consider trying that before hunting for the grounding point if this doesn't work. My system goes from display port -> VGA -> composite.
You may be confused but IMO I have been consistent. I did write should and later provided an exception - eg: "...being a single battery Police car I can understand why the engine to body is considered more important than engine to battery- ". (Where by "body" I meant the vehicle's electrical loads.)
Originally Posted by redheadedrod
The "correct" or best or best compromise solution depends on the situation.
But let the OP Champak query any confusion or if he has an issue with his GM or similar vehicle.
so with the car off but key to accessories, is the lines/hum still there? does it only occur when the engine is running?
Yes it still happens with the car off.
The external video card didn't work at all.
The video isolator I bought helps a great deal, although not perfect. It turned the horizontal lines vertical, got rid of half, and made the remainder really really fine. For the most part you can't see it, however if you stare long enough you will notice it. I don't think it's worth investing in the more expensive one at this time.
As far as relocating the ground of the computer to the factory monitor, that would most likely cause even more problems with the audio now that I'm really starting to understand this thing. What do you think?
Lastly, I believe the naviks converter is also causing some of the issue as well, slightly. So what I'm going to do is ground the naviks system to where the monitor is, and then put the video isolator at the end of the run just before the signal goes into the naviks.