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Thread: linking into laptop power button

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stooboy
    Hi, I also have the same problem with the T20, did you ever resolve your issues??

    I had hoped there would be a large easy to solder connector but alas not, also tracing the wires back is nigh on imposible as its jumbled up in the keyboard keys, and is all in a ribbon. Im not going to be using the onboard keyboard, so I might just butcher it and see what happens. I dont want to buy a dock to find I end up with the same problem, also I dont want the extra space that a dock would take up. I ll put my thinking cap on with this one....

    3 Images attached, one for the front, back of keyboard, and one of the keys I atacked to see how it works.

    Thanx for the pics, but please explain what you have there in each pic. I think there is more then enough there to solder a button or relay.

    The first pic seems to have a metal contact on the bottom of the button (if it is the button) that metal contact either pushes a button on a board, OR makes the connection between 2 contacts on a board. Either way, there should be 2 contacts to solder tow.

    If not, the board in the second pic has several wires coming off of it. One or two of them SHOULD be related to the power button. You will need to get a Multimeter with a continuity tester to work out which wires.

    This is really not that hard. No matter what, there HAS TO BE a switch with some contacts. It is just a matter of figuring out which contacts are the right contacts.

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  2. #12
    Newbie Stooboy's Avatar
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    ta

    Cheers for the replies guys,

    My bad those pictures are misleading, as I took the photos while the keyboard was lying ontop of the exposed motherboard underneath.

    there are no actuall wires on the keyboard, everything runs to the back of the keyboard via the brown ribbon strip(pic one in previos post). The black connector seen in pic one is the only connection between the laptop and the keyboard. Somwhere in those pins will be the power. The circuit board that you see on Pic one is the control for the mouse nipple and mouse keys.

    the second picture is the cursor key off the laptop I removed to see the contacts below as it is a simmilar to that of the power button (I didnt want to **** up the power button and not be able to use the lappy anymore). This pic was taken with the keyboard ontop of the exposed laptop beneath. Both sides of that contact are insulated by rubber.

    Pic 3 is a picture of the power button with only the harware peice removed, if you pull that rubber bit off you get the same as in pic 2 a small silver pad.

    The entire circuit is basically a rubber membrane, that then runs via the ribbon to the back of the keyboard. It is a bit like a calculator keypad.

    Thus I took apart an old calculator to see how it worked. What I found more clearly was, that there were two peices of curcuit that ran "closely to each other" sitting above that is a large circle disk, when you push down on the key it press the disk, down that bridges the two circuits (switch). This is the same on the IBM keypad, taking the keys off the keypad, you can pull the rubber membrane back. Then with a little persiverence you can eventually get the the top hlaf of the membrane to seperate from the bottom. Giving you the exposed pads. Since this is mainly rubber and solder resist im not sure if it can be soldered onto, but ill give it ago.

    Its quite hard to explain but ill put more pics up. Although im new here, i often use the net to resolve problems and there is nothing worse than finding a thread with someone who has had the same problem as you, with lots of ppl posting things to try and you get to the end and they say "fixed it thanks" without saying wtf they did to fix it

  3. #13
    Low Bitrate widower's Avatar
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    Don't solder onto the switch contacts. The disk is made of carbon. There will be no scanning occuring to detect the power switch closure so I expect that you will be able to find two pins on the connector that have low resistance when the membrane is pressed. I expect that the connection will be between ground and a seperate pin.

  4. #14
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    I went down the docking station route as at the time I couldn't find an easy way either.

    Thinking about it now though, if you take a gander underneath the laptop theres a small flap covering a socket for the docking station to clip into. Theres dozens of pins here and 4 main pins on either end. Im pretty sure 2 of these pins will connect when the switch on the docking station is pressed.

    I tried to find out which pins but couldn't but if you can then that should be alot easier!!
    Volvo C70 - Installation in progress *gulp*

  5. #15
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    I did the docking station I have a t23 this should help is your friend

    IBM Port Replicator Power Button Extension/Relocation

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    Newbie Stooboy's Avatar
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    sorted.

    Was able to split the two parts of membrane, so that I could probe onto the pads inbetween, if you do this becarefull not to rip the rubber as there are tracks on it. You can then buzz out what tracks go to where, on the bottom connector, I got a friend to do it who is a soldering PRO.

    You need to remove some of the keys to get the membrane to lift


    Then with a bit of perciverence you can get the two halves of the membrane to split


    Use a multimeter to buzz out then solder on the connector beneath.

  7. #17
    Low Bitrate Kato's Avatar
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    I want to do the same thing. Can you post some picks please. How does the laptop actually come on...by applying power to the bottom connector?

    Thanks

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kato
    I want to do the same thing. Can you post some picks please. How does the laptop actually come on...by applying power to the bottom connector?

    Thanks
    No, the computer comes on by shorting the two connectors. You must use a relay of some sort. Do not apply power.

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain_jim1 View Post
    I soldered 2 wires to my laptop to power it on. On the base of the power button were 4 metal connectors. I figured out what two needed to be bridged, soldered the wires on, attached a momentary switch from Radio Shack and viola! Power button.

    Unfortunaltey, all the moving around of the laptop I did, the power button wires pulled off and my resolder job .. was not a success and I burned up some small chip on the mobo .. the laptop died shortly there after. I'm thinking maybe about glueing the wires onto my new laptop motherboard..

    -Brad
    83 mp320i 285k
    Hi Can you tell me which two pins are to be bridged?? I see 4 pins on my Asus laptop power button, button couldnt figure out which two should be used, anyway to figure it out??? thanks,-Pavan

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stooboy View Post
    Was able to split the two parts of membrane, so that I could probe onto the pads inbetween, if you do this becarefull not to rip the rubber as there are tracks on it. You can then buzz out what tracks go to where, on the bottom connector, I got a friend to do it who is a soldering PRO.

    You need to remove some of the keys to get the membrane to lift


    Then with a bit of perciverence you can get the two halves of the membrane to split


    Use a multimeter to buzz out then solder on the connector beneath.

    hi, someone reading this? specially Stooboy?

    i have also a thinkpad a want it to do the same...
    the pictures are not available, could you repost them?
    how did you solder in the carbon discs?
    i damage one carbon track, how could i repair it?

    thanks in advance?

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