Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 46

Thread: Casetronics Case & DC-DC PS

  1. #1
    Constant Bitrate
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Orange County, NY
    Posts
    162

    Casetronics Case & DC-DC PS

    Does anyone in this group have experience using the CaseTronic mini cases with a built in DC-DC powersupply? It seems the DC-DC convertor accepts 12 volts from a wall adapter. I was looking at them and was pretty excited about using one for my new carputer project untill I looked further into the powersupply specs... and realised that the input range isn't wide enough for automotive use.


    Thanks for your input,
    ~Jason

  2. #2
    Low Bitrate shadowlessman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by jasonsp6
    Does anyone in this group have experience using the CaseTronic mini cases with a built in DC-DC powersupply? It seems the DC-DC convertor accepts 12 volts from a wall adapter. I was looking at them and was pretty excited about using one for my new carputer project untill I looked further into the powersupply specs... and realised that the input range isn't wide enough for automotive use.


    Thanks for your input,
    ~Jason
    'Tis true. Mine did work in my vehicle for a while, but now the PSU will no longer accept a high voltage. It will run for at most about 90 seconds... which is enough time to post, boot into XP, and start winamp for about 15 seconds or so. From here you would have two choices: a) build a 12V regulator for input to the PSU, or b) build/buy a complete PSU replacement that has a wider input range.

    The case is nice (I have the C134), but I find it to be a little small. I won't go into details unless you want them. I will likely buy a C137 and move to that.
    "Buckethead's this guy that was raised in a chicken coop and without the bucket on his head, he's helpless"

    - "Really? Oh my god..."

  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    384
    The PW-60 power supply that comes with the Casetronix 2699R has two
    limitations. First being the tight 12V input voltage tolerance (I think it is only 5%)
    The other issue is the maximum current on the 12Vout. It is spec'd at 1A
    which theoreticlly isn't enough to power most harddrives. I have had
    no issues powering my 120GB IBM drive however if I try to power a cdrom
    also the 12V supply will sag and the hard drive/cdrom will stop spinning.

    My solution for tight 12V Input tolerance not suitable connected to car battery 12 - 14.5V.
    First I tried using a low dropout linear 12V regulator however this proved to be a problem
    when the car was off (12V- 1.2V dropout =10.8V out). I then decided to use four
    TI PT5071 switching regulators in parallel. The beauty of the PT5071 is that they are boost/buck
    with an input voltage range of 8V to 20V and a constant output of 12V. I used four
    5071's in parallel (with a shottkey diode on each of the outputs) becuase the max rated
    current output is 1.5A and I calculated that I would need about 5A max. The regulators
    are rated at 84% efficency which isn't bad. The other nice thing about this setup is that the
    engine can be started without resetting the computer since the regulators can tolerate an
    input as low as 8V.

    To resolve the current limitation (1A max) of the PW60 12V rail I used a USB2.0 external
    enclosure for my DVD-ROM. I removed the AC power supply that came with it and made
    my own DC-DC supply using one PT5071 for 12V rail and one PT6212 for 5V rail. This keeps
    my 12V current draw within spec and now my entire system is not dependant on a tight
    12V input tolerance.

  4. #4
    Low Bitrate shadowlessman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by EBJUSTIN
    The PW-60 power supply that comes with the Casetronix 2699R has two
    limitations. First being the tight 12V input voltage tolerance (I think it is only 5%)
    The other issue is the maximum current on the 12Vout. It is spec'd at 1A
    which theoreticlly isn't enough to power most harddrives. I have had
    no issues powering my 120GB IBM drive however if I try to power a cdrom
    also the 12V supply will sag and the hard drive/cdrom will stop spinning.

    My solution for tight 12V Input tolerance not suitable connected to car battery 12 - 14.5V.
    First I tried using a low dropout linear 12V regulator however this proved to be a problem
    when the car was off (12V- 1.2V dropout =10.8V out). I then decided to use four
    TI PT5071 switching regulators in parallel. The beauty of the PT5071 is that they are boost/buck
    with an input voltage range of 8V to 20V and a constant output of 12V. I used four
    5071's in parallel (with a shottkey diode on each of the outputs) becuase the max rated
    current output is 1.5A and I calculated that I would need about 5A max. The regulators
    are rated at 84% efficency which isn't bad. The other nice thing about this setup is that the
    engine can be started without resetting the computer since the regulators can tolerate an
    input as low as 8V.

    To resolve the current limitation (1A max) of the PW60 12V rail I used a USB2.0 external
    enclosure for my DVD-ROM. I removed the AC power supply that came with it and made
    my own DC-DC supply using one PT5071 for 12V rail and one PT6212 for 5V rail. This keeps
    my 12V current draw within spec and now my entire system is not dependant on a tight
    12V input tolerance.
    Good call on the switching regulators. I would like to know about the schottkey diodes you used. It'd have to be a low drop diode (0.4V probably) and I was wondering what manufacturer (and part #) of diode you used for this setup you have (so I can order a few). I'm sure others would like to know as well.
    "Buckethead's this guy that was raised in a chicken coop and without the bucket on his head, he's helpless"

    - "Really? Oh my god..."

  5. #5
    Constant Bitrate
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Dayton, OH, USA
    Posts
    200
    EBJUSTIN

    Please let us know your setup, a possible diagram would be awesome. Also part#'s If this 12v regulator works that would be awesome, also whatkinda heat do you get?

  6. #6
    Constant Bitrate
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    HOME CHICAGO, NOW IN Greensboro
    Posts
    185
    I have just got myself a c134 and would love to know how to make a 12v power supply ........ please give schematics and other stuff

  7. #7
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    375
    yeah, post up!!

    Mase Casetronics DC-DC PSU says "12v/4.5A" input, so I guess that is the MAX.. What 12v regulator do I need to build to yield that (so I have all the power I can get) ??????

    Why did you guys get the C-134?? That's a ripoff... My 2699 cost $70 and my M10000 (Nehemiah mind you) cost $161. The C-134 costs like $300 or something.. ouch! And all you get is a smaller case and 5watts more power.. *shrug*

  8. #8
    Constant Bitrate
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    HOME CHICAGO, NOW IN Greensboro
    Posts
    185
    It cost me 380 which includes

    1) nemiah M10000
    2) 256 mb ram
    3) power supply with brick
    4) all assembeled including shipping

    I plan to put it in my i30 console ( replacing the 1 din size extra drawer).

    sq_geek, you spent 230 w/o memory so say 65 to 70 bucks for the 256mb and the rest for assembly, cd rom interface, small size and shipping is not very much ?????

  9. #9
    Low Bitrate shadowlessman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by sq_geek
    yeah, post up!!

    Mase Casetronics DC-DC PSU says "12v/4.5A" input, so I guess that is the MAX.. What 12v regulator do I need to build to yield that (so I have all the power I can get) ??????

    Why did you guys get the C-134?? That's a ripoff... My 2699 cost $70 and my M10000 (Nehemiah mind you) cost $161. The C-134 costs like $300 or something.. ouch! And all you get is a smaller case and 5watts more power.. *shrug*
    <offtopic>
    If you don't already get the smaller is better thing, then I'm not going to try to explain it. I would agree that the C134 is pretty expensive (and a bit too small), but it has no problems other than that. I've heard about problems with grounding in other cases. The only complaint I have about the thing is that it's so packed w/ a 40GB HDD and slimline DVD/CD-RW that wire routing is a pain. It tends to get wires next to the fans easily and make a whirring noise that is totally unacceptable. This is why as soon as the Lippert Pentium M board comes out, I'm getting the C137.
    </offtopic>

    As for the PSU/regulator thing, the schematic should not be that hard to come up with. From EBJUSTIN's description, it sounds like 4 reference designs of the PT5071 with 4 low drop diodes all wired together at the end like so (forgive my text art)
    Code:
           +-----| PT5071 Ref |----|>|---+
           |                             |
           +-----| PT5071 Ref |----|>|---+
      +V --+                             +---- ~12 V @ 6 A
           +-----| PT5071 Ref |----|>|---+
           |                             |
           +-----| PT5071 Ref |----|>|---+
    Notice that the output won't exactly be 12 V @ 6 A. It will be a little less than that.
    EBJUSTIN: correct me if I'm wrong.

    HTH Everyone.
    "Buckethead's this guy that was raised in a chicken coop and without the bucket on his head, he's helpless"

    - "Really? Oh my god..."

  10. #10
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    384
    I used MBR1645 schottkey diodes http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/MB/MBR1645.pdf
    I'm seeing ~.25 to .3V dropout voltge (regulator output is 11.78V after a diodes, PW60 does not complain about this). You can adjust the output voltage via the Vadj pin if the output voltage is too low. I'll draw a diagram when I have more time. The PT5071 datasheet is at:
    http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/produc...tNumber=PT5071

    I placed the regulators in a rectangular housing ~5x2x2in (from Radio Shack). I put a fan on each end to create a mini windtunnel for cooling. Unfortunately it shounds like...uhhh...well it sounds like a windtunne. So I unpowered one of the fans and it is working fine.

Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •