Thread: Help Speaker POP.....

I cant say for certin without puting a scope on your setup, but most likely the "pop" is from dc leaking into the line when the system powers down.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=990%2D0023

this kit will break the audio feed to the speakers, you might have to play with the position though, its designed to be placed inbetween the speakers and amp, but *should* be able to be placed on the RCAs into the amp, it depends what part of the system is causing the feed back.

If it dosent help, le me know I could wip up something with a timer circuit to cut the speakers, and then cut the power.


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Gizmo-
Techonlogy on Wheels
http://www.hjnetworks.com/car

ALso check for the newest drivers of your sound card. I remember my sb16 had new drivers and when checking the list of updated features, they said the drive fixed the popping noise so it might be an even better way to resolve the problem. (just pray or something) Or get a sb live.. No problems whatsover with this thing. its like $70-$90 and it sounds better than anything. The mp3 only sounds as good as the sound card along with your car stereo.

You can get a sblive value for around $30 now www.pricewatch.com

I've had similar problems to this as well. I thought it would be VERY cool to just "tell" the amps when to turn on or off by throwing a remote control relay accross the remote line of the amps. Then I could have a program tell the amps when it's safe to come on (or off). I found a module that will work VERY well for this, but it's quite expensive (like $100). It has FOUR relays though, so that could be ALOT of control if you needed that many devices...

Anyway, see here as an idea anyway:
http://www.controlanything.com/html/r4x.htm

-Matt

Thanks guys I think I'm going to check out the SBLive

Thanks again
JrFaust

CapnMatt - the quad relay driver, that's real overkill there. You only need one signal output (unless you want to turn your amps on and off independently - but why?), so just use the DTR pin. And you don't really need relays since the amp remote line draws very little current. I just use a transistor on the DTR pin. That's a lot cheaper than $100, and just as effective.

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Fully custom Linux-based system on an '89 VW GTI 16V Wolfsburg Edition
Dual in-dash CD-ROMs, jogdial volume control, Sony joystick on the steering column, IR remote...
and still more HP than MHz