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Thread: Designing a double-din case for 2003 WRX

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by LESLIEx317537
    I wanna see.
    You wanna see what?

    The finished product?

    It's still in the design phase..

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giuliano
    And my WRX isn't much to be jealous over - it's only a wagon, and only a 2003, not a 2004 or STi.

    And it's still completely stock!

    But it still is rather fun to drive..
    Hey mines just a normal 2003 Impreza, so no turbo, only advantage is my engine is 2.5L as opposed to the WRX 2.0L. But still WRX is more peppy than what I have. But i agree 2004 and STi... yummy (drool). Oh yea mines also a sport wagon - by choice. I wanted more cargo capacity, plus, it was cheaper than the RS(sedan for you non subarunites)

    Quote Originally Posted by Giuliano
    I'd prefer the Pentium M over a Via CPU for general-purpose CPU power for multitasking - I'm not really planning to play movies/DVD's, but more for GPS navigation with Microsoft Mappoint, which requires some CPU to work well.
    True true, but judging from the highmarks most people give to the VIA M and MII im guessing the processing time for GPS rerouting isnt bad. Althought I wouldnt reccomnd watching a DVD, MAMEing, WarDriving, GPS Navigating, and playing back a DivX all at the same time. Althought that would be alot multi-tasking-accident-causing fun!
    2003 Subaru Impreza TS
    Staus: Done.. too lazy to make pictures lol.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maeveth
    Hey mines just a normal 2003 Impreza, so no turbo, only advantage is my engine is 2.5L as opposed to the WRX 2.0L. But still WRX is more peppy than what I have. But i agree 2004 and STi... yummy (drool). Oh yea mines also a sport wagon - by choice. I wanted more cargo capacity, plus, it was cheaper than the RS(sedan for you non subarunites)
    That IS one thing I miss about my old LS Wagon - the engine was a 2.2L, and had quite a lot of good torque at the low end..

    The 2.0L turbo engine tends to bog down a bit in 1st gear.. unless I push it above 3k RPM.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giuliano
    Could anybody with material knowledge suggest a better material?
    Aluminum or steel, either way. Steel's much less expensive.

    It's going to have to be about 2mm thick, be fairly bendable/ductile, yet still suitable for tapping 6-32 or M3 threads.

    Most of the bends will most likely have a 2mm bend radius or thereabouts, and the bends will be done by the machine shop.
    Don't take what i say as gospel, i would advise visiting the place you are getting the stuff made but 2mm thick T6 with a 2mm radius - no way buddy. I only have practical experience with T6 up to 0.6mm and this will crack with a bend radius bigger then this. I don't have a huge knowledge of steel (mainly carbon fibre and aluminium) but if you look at the steel your case and most car stereos are made of you will see its pretty thin. I was lookin at your design again and although i have never seen an ITX pc before this week and you dont give any dimensions I imagine that some of the metal around the cut outs is gonna be pretty narrow and steel is 3 times stronger than aluminium. As a general rule I would say if you dont have to cut it or bend it yourself and if it isnt going on a plane then make it out of steel.

    As for thickness an screws you would probably have to get the metal punched and use self tapping screws or i would probably opt for some kind of captive nut (especially if you have to take it apart a lot while you are getting it right as the self tappers will eventually wreck the holes).

    In the US you have a much better availability of metal over there (i'm in the UK) and i would probably choose a nice bit of stainless steel (good in case of condensation etc from AC vents in the dash) but as I said check with your machine shop as as I have found they have invaluble practical experience and they will probably have a nice press to insert some kind of durable fastener.

    Again, as with ally, you have to watch what kind of heat treatment/working it has had as the harder it is the less ductile it is and most cases are made of good old mild steel and then galvanised. Look at some case manufacturer sites etc and see what they use (if they use something they think is clever and better than mild steel they generally list it).

    Hope this helps, better get on with my report!

    Oh, something else to consider: your case will provide RF shielding for the pc so i would look at this aspect too (motors, rubbing metal etc in your car so shielding can only help really - unless you have on board wi-fi/bluetooth!). Dunno how hot these itx thingys get but you could also build some heat transfer (eg heat pipe) to the case and use it to help keep it cool - maybe getting a bit complicated now!

  5. #45
    Maximum Bitrate sfay93's Avatar
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    You can bend untempered aluminum. It is the tempering/hardening process that makes it brittle. What do you think most PC cases are made out of today? It has great cooling properties kinda like your butt on aluminum bleachers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse Monkey
    Don't take what i say as gospel, i would advise visiting the place you are getting the stuff made but 2mm thick T6 with a 2mm radius - no way buddy. I only have practical experience with T6 up to 0.6mm and this will crack with a bend radius bigger then this. I don't have a huge knowledge of steel (mainly carbon fibre and aluminium) but if you look at the steel your case and most car stereos are made of you will see its pretty thin. I was lookin at your design again and although i have never seen an ITX pc before this week and you dont give any dimensions I imagine that some of the metal around the cut outs is gonna be pretty narrow and steel is 3 times stronger than aluminium. As a general rule I would say if you dont have to cut it or bend it yourself and if it isnt going on a plane then make it out of steel.
    I can't really visit the machine shop - it's a company called eMachine Shop, and they provide free CAD/CAM software - you design your product with their software, and it prices it out and everything. You sumbit your order to the company, and they cut/form/build whatever you designed.

    The software provides a list of material types, and I can pick from the list.

    They have Mild Steel 1008 listed - think that would suffice?

    The rest of the steel they have listed is carbon, or various kinds of stainless steel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse Monkey
    As for thickness an screws you would probably have to get the metal punched and use self tapping screws or i would probably opt for some kind of captive nut (especially if you have to take it apart a lot while you are getting it right as the self tappers will eventually wreck the holes).
    One of the tool options I have is to have holes punched, and I can have those holes machine tapped after.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse Monkey
    In the US you have a much better availability of metal over there (i'm in the UK) and i would probably choose a nice bit of stainless steel (good in case of condensation etc from AC vents in the dash) but as I said check with your machine shop as as I have found they have invaluble practical experience and they will probably have a nice press to insert some kind of durable fastener.
    I have a choice of a large number of stainless steels:

    Stainless 316, 316L
    Stainless Series 400
    Stainless Type 303 (Austentic), 304 (Austentic), 304 Semi-Hard Spring grade, 304L (Austentic), 430C (Martensitic), 440C (Martensitic)

    Also, with the materials, I have the option of having the pieces plated after forming, for rust resistance, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse Monkey
    Again, as with ally, you have to watch what kind of heat treatment/working it has had as the harder it is the less ductile it is and most cases are made of good old mild steel and then galvanised. Look at some case manufacturer sites etc and see what they use (if they use something they think is clever and better than mild steel they generally list it).
    I can get the Mild Steel 1008 plated with Tin/Zinc for corrosion resistance - would that suffice?

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfay93
    You can bend untempered aluminum. It is the tempering/hardening process that makes it brittle. What do you think most PC cases are made out of today? It has great cooling properties kinda like your butt on aluminum bleachers.
    I think I have the option of Aluminum 1100-H14, but I don't think it's compatable with the laser-cutting machine operations..

    At least, the software says it's incompatable.

    Mild Steel 1008 might work.. or some kind of stainless steel - I really have no idea.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfay93
    You can bend untempered aluminum. It is the tempering/hardening process that makes it brittle. What do you think most PC cases are made out of today? It has great cooling properties kinda like your butt on aluminum bleachers.
    yup exactly the more the hardening the less the ductility. All i can suggest is look at the common uses of the metals on offer and their specs. At the end of the day its no big deal what you use as you dont need a high performance alloy just some everyday ductile (tough) metal.

    I would say the 304 stainless would be fine. Look at the specs of aero metals here: ASM and you will see the specs for 304 (for example) here: 304

    PC cases made of ally have a huge range of different qualities - some are c**p and distort everywhere making your PC crash and some eg Lan Li are excellent and they owe some of this to good material choice and most to good design with folds to increase the second moment of area (all ally has the same stiffness and all steel has the same stiffness).

    Your design will have cut outs everywhere for PCI slots, wires etc so i would use steel cos its so stiff. It is gonna be pretty small and you dont want/need the hastle or have the space for folds for stiffness so just make it thick enough. I would suspect 1mm would be fine. Go look at small enclosures and see how they are made - you get very few made from ally. A lot of people are obsessed with using aluminium (PC case people) but it is pretty rubbish really unless you need low weight or a high strength/stiffness ratio.

    Just for info I think the 1xxx series ally is not much of an alloy so should be very ductile. Dunno much about mild steel but i think 1008 is generally used for fabrication so would be a pretty good bet.

    A few more sites for ally: http://www.luminum.com/ (i noticed it has bend radii and says 2-1/2 for 1/8" thick T6 just to reiterate what i said earlier)
    Steel: http://www.manufacturingcenter.com/t...500/0500tp.asp
    and steel:
    But otherwise go to and poke around

    There are so many metals out there it just makes life more confusing!!!

  9. #49
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    LCD Mounting Brackets, Rev 2

    Another idea I'm toying with, on how the LCD will get mounted to the radio mount points.

    The idea is that the brackets have four degrees of movement - slide in/out, slide left/right, slide up/down, and tilt vertically up and down.

    Attached pictures show the brackets for the left side.

    The tabs on the left side will be the mount points to match the radio's mounting locations - holes and exact locations haven't been dimensioned yet.

    The horizontal slots on the left bracket provide the in/out sliding movement.

    The curved slots on the right bracket provide the tilt, with about 15 degrees of tilt. The curved slots are designed to match the horizontal slots on the left bracket.


    The vertical slots on the right bracket provide the up/down sliding movement.

    The LCD will be mounted to a flat plate with standoffs, and the flat plate will have horizontal slots in it.

    The combination of the horizontal slots on the LCD mounting plate and the vertical slots on the right bracket provide the up/down/left/right sliding movement.

    The LCD mounting plate is not shown.

    The matching slots will be joined together with screws/washers/locknuts.


    Some of the particulars of this design still need to be worked out, such as the arc angle of the pivot slots, the length of the in/out slots, etc..

    But I think the design might let me design some flexability into the mounting design, making adjusting the LCD to the radio bezel easier.


    The combined bracket is about 80mm tall, and about 20-30mm deep from the shorter mount point brackets.

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