I am using a 2 month old radio shack ac/dc-v/dc-a/ohms monitor. My stepdad told me the voltages were about right (he used to be an electrician like back in 1980 somethin.. so id assume he knows what hes doing since our house hasnt burnt down yet (hes redone all the wiring for it) and his car hasnt blown up yet (rewired that too, due to the crappy OBC1).
What do you guys mean it cant be over 14.4volts? I just purchased an amp last night from my local electronics store that REQUIRES 14.4+ steady volts. I dont know what u guys are sniffing, but whatever it is thats making you crazy i want some of that stuff too.
Tim
99 ram 5.9 turbo
P4 2.0, MicroATX, Audigy2nx, Monster Cable / Alpine.
Coming soon: Indash motorized, 5.1, dvdrw, gps, bluetooth, wifi, and more!
Mate i dont know what to say ...
You ask for the help, we tell you how to deal with it then you dont trust us with the solution. And its not only one person who is telling you that the car voltage can not exeed 14.2v.Well and you dont belive us... So whats the point in asking in the first place then?
------------------
Fosgate
Fosgate
System Comp V3 - In progress.
Low power MB with C7 CPU, DC-DC PSU, car ECU link, USB TV, GPS, 7" TFT, Wireless, Voice.
TimW,
I think you are the one who is high.
I install/maintain mobile radio/data communications for law enforcement and other agencies for a living. I gave a valid link to a resource that explains exactly how a battery "works". You can't argue with science. Your fu#$ing voltmeter is junk.
You refuse our advice,
we move on.
those voltages are too high, take the meter back to radiocrap
Lessee....your inverter faults when you start the car and it measures 17+ volts. Then your inverter faults when you turn on electrical devices in your car -probably from an undervoltage. Then you measure voltage on cars that are 13 years old or more and say that is a good reference point.
Your alternator is *****ed. Take the advice or don't.
Want to:Originally Posted by ghettocruzer
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I dont think vehicle age has anything to do with the voltage.....
They use the same specs now as they did in the 70's when alternators first became common.
The only difference is about .5v for sealed/unsealed batterys, cant think of exact voltage but I think its 13.7 old water acid `13.2v gel/sealed units
Can you tell me the make/model of amp that wants 16 volts?
Old car = old alternator = old regulation technology. I'm just guessing the newer cars with tons more electronics use better regulation technology and have tighter tolerances.
Want to:
-Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
-Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video
Oh yeah!
Sorry for a minute I thought it was true.......
hate to burst peoples bubbles but old alternators did not perform much better than the latest gold plated 'sucker purchase'.
Batterys are a little better, IE more capacity in smaller footprint, but lead on a plate in a bath of acid is still lead on a plate in a bath of acid.
Lead hasnt changed, acid hasnt changed, so batterys havent changed, they just put bigger plates in a thinner box, you can actually see through the sides of most batterys now.
Of course /some/ people believe oxygen free copper wire on speaker / phono(rca) leads makes the sound better.
(Then you open up that double dolby certified sony creation to find standard copper wire, tin solder, and copper tracks on the board)
First of all, i'd like to know what kind of computer he's running off a 140w inverter (which probably has maxload at around 105w)
Secondly, the ONLY cars i've seen with voltages running higher than 14v (maybe 15v on a hot day) is one of my friend's cars who had his alternator rewound and the regulator changed to put out around 16v (For his 1000w JL amp). And that was ON PURPOSE.
It does sound like your inverter is either getting too much voltage in, and when you turn on the computer (which probably wants more power than the inverter can handle) the inverter freaks out. It might do better at rest because the incoming voltage is lower.. but i've no idea.
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