I've found a cable with 22 wires at my local Fry's to extend the OEM LCD monitor on my M35. I used 20 of them, it was about $6.99 for 20ft aprox. (25 AWG, so it's the same as Ethernet), and they were good enough for that. No idea what this cable were for though, it had no name in the clear package.
No Fry's here in Florida.... but wait, how did you connect the other end?? Please don't tell me you soldered it in the car??
I'd like to be able to do all the soldering on the bench and then just run cables and plug them in to each other while in the car, which is why I might end up going with 3 Cat5s.
I had to. Patience is a virtue. I couldn't solder both ends on the bench because of the size of the harness. You just need lots of light and a safe, stable place to rest the iron at all times, and half of your problems are gone. Cover everthing, of course, and I mean everything.:)
Well it looks like I was wrong about the eject button being on the Head Unit instead of the faceplate. It is definitely on the face place. However, the faceplate has a slot through which the CD passes so the face does not have to be off to eject it which means that I shouldn't have any issues there....
Another thought: Since my faceplate will likely be in the center console where the remote will not be able to aim at it, has anyone tried relocating the IR eye to another location?? Or even adding an Auxiliary IR receiver somewhere on the dash??
remote locating the eye isn't hard, or you could use a PAC IR repeater too if you don't want to have to hack up the faceplate...
Thanks for the tip on the PAC IR... I knew there had to be something out there, because I've seen it done in several home theater installations where most of the equipment would literally be in another room.
Originally Posted by turbocad6
As for the progress on my remote faceplate: I've figured out that it will probably be easiest to just solder directly to the connectors on the back of the faceplate as they stick out quite a bit. and I will have plenty of clearance behind where I'm going to put it.
However, the connection on the Head Unit side is quite recessed and also surrounded by a metal plate, so I've gotta take the head unit apart to get to the leads on the circuit board inside. I think at this point I'm gonna make sure it works properly before I void the warranty.
Well, I think I'm going to ditch the remote faceplate idea for the time being because I can do almost every function with the remote and PAC IR-X, which I just ordered from eBay for $25 shipped... Thanks Turbo!
This cost me a little bit more than doing the remote faceplate, but it will save me a WHOLE lot of time soldering, cutting and running cables.