Page 7 of 11 FirstFirst 1234567891011 LastLast
Results 61 to 70 of 107

Thread: Relocating headunit and extending faceplate somewhere else.

  1. #61
    FLAC LESLIEx317537's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,596
    I figure if you have a CarPC, you should have a DVD-ROM/CD-Burner up front.
    So no need for the headunit CD player.

    I got a slotload laptop DVD-CDRW that uses the standard laptop to IDE converter for 70 buks. The 15' foot IDE cable that was so disputed at first till I proved people wrong using 80 wires was only 16 buks for me. So if you do this mod, just spend 100 buks and you can burn CD's up front also.
    SP13000|M2-ATX|512MB DDR400|2.5" 7200RPM S-ATA|Trans-7"|Slim SL DVD-CDRW|KEH 5.1 DSP|SB L!ve Ext|Gyration PowerMate|BT|WiFi|GPS|WinXP|VoomPC
    GPSing - Digital Speedo
    Relocating headunit and extending faceplate
    Button app to Alt-Tab between two programs

  2. #62
    Variable Bitrate cheerio's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    233
    Well, a reason to keep the headunit is channel seperation, something not done too well by soundcards. Plus HPF, HPF, ability to control woofer dynamically is a ++. That doesnt look like fun for me as i have a pioneer HU and all the solderpoints are RIGHT next to eachother. BTW, yes that is the correct way to solder, but it only works good with rosin core solder. just my 2.
    Crouching Tiger, Drunken Kitty

  3. #63
    FLAC LESLIEx317537's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,596
    I have fine channel seperation with my Sound Blaster Audigy 2 NX.
    I can control each channel in 4.1 mode. I just don't have a center channel.

    I have two amps in my trunk and all the preamps can be controlled via software using the Creative control panel.

    The Soundblaster does have a High Pass Filter on it, and so do my amps.

    I guess you'd have to hear my system to believe it.

    Also if you ever modded a PS2, then those solder points are real close, less than 1mm apart.
    SP13000|M2-ATX|512MB DDR400|2.5" 7200RPM S-ATA|Trans-7"|Slim SL DVD-CDRW|KEH 5.1 DSP|SB L!ve Ext|Gyration PowerMate|BT|WiFi|GPS|WinXP|VoomPC
    GPSing - Digital Speedo
    Relocating headunit and extending faceplate
    Button app to Alt-Tab between two programs

  4. #64
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    6,205
    my 2 cents: it is tinning when you tin the tip of the iron & when you tin the wire end & when you tin the terminal. The main reason for tinning is that you don't want to tranfer to much heat to the components, & tinning allows you to solder with just enough heat, & then when both sides are prepped(tinned) you will need minimal amount of heat to join the two. also note that while hot glue can work, it does have a VERY low melting point & in car temps can & do rise enough to at least soften it too much. This type of extending has been used for years & the pro way of doing it would involve epoxy for a permanent solution or another way is silicone. silicone is great because it is stiff enough to support non agressive handling while still being able to service the connection in the future, but if you do it right the first time epoxy will eliminate the need for you to ever have to screw with it again...keep in mind that with silicone it will take several days for the middle to solidify depending on how thick it is applied & STAY AWAY FROM HIGH HEAT SILICONE as some have been known to use metalic particals, bad news for this type of use...

  5. #65
    Maximum Bitrate Don 944 LA's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    San Diego / Los Angeles
    Posts
    679

    What about on a movable angle faceplate ???

    I have one of those new JVC LHX 500 headunits and it has the faceplate / touchscreen that angles out at the press of a button ( on FP or remote )..

    Has anyone given thought to also moving the face reciever and any hinges and motors ???

    Don
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  6. #66
    It's not really that small...No, seriously. judoGTI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,049
    Should be the same, just make sure you mount it well.
    '02 GTI
    [Routis '04] [Opus 90W] [160GB Maxtor HD]
    [Lilliput 7" TS] [VIA M10000] [XMPCR]
    [512MB RAM] [Custom housing]
    [Deluo GPS Mouse] [E-MU 0404 Soundcard]
    Progress Meter: [==============|] 99.9%

  7. #67
    My man uses Levitra. Peoples's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    2,024
    two questions, potentially stupid.

    First of all, I wanted to know if in the application it would be smarter to use a grounded soldering iron. If the thing your soldering is not live, is it really at major rist of esd for the soldering iron?

    Secondly, would it be possible for you to split each connection to two wires, that way you could use two identical faceplates at once?
    PC Components:
    Lilliput; XPC/FLEX mobo; 1.7 ghz P4 Mobile;512 DDR; 160 gb HDD; opus 150; slot usb dvd-rw
    My work log

  8. #68
    FLAC LESLIEx317537's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,596
    Using a grounded soldering iron is not neccesary for this app. Only for really sensitive devices.

    If you use two faceplates, then you risk drawing alot of amps out of the headunit and might overheat/burn it out. Let me know if you attempt to try it.
    SP13000|M2-ATX|512MB DDR400|2.5" 7200RPM S-ATA|Trans-7"|Slim SL DVD-CDRW|KEH 5.1 DSP|SB L!ve Ext|Gyration PowerMate|BT|WiFi|GPS|WinXP|VoomPC
    GPSing - Digital Speedo
    Relocating headunit and extending faceplate
    Button app to Alt-Tab between two programs

  9. #69
    _
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Little Elm, Texas
    Posts
    13,501
    cool cool

    glad to see more people doing this, I've seen this done to cars for years now....and yes, even in the rearview location. It's possible and perfectly legal as long as you put a rearview back in the car....lol

    glad to see more people getting into custom work on their car stereos!
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  10. #70
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    27

    SLick install, but stuck...

    Here's the prob....I have all the wires connected (cat5) to the face and HU. None of the wires are touching and they all match up. Everthing on the face (buttons) works, but the volume control. All the buttons light up, the eject button works, but I cannot get the volume control to work. When I hit the reset button and then turn the player on, if i turn the volume control right away I get the volume display to come up for a sec then it goes away, but the volume doesnt change and it wont come back up. I have checked all my solders and they seem good. I cannot figure out why the volume wont work. Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Tony

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •