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Thread: reversable motor for monitor?

  1. #111
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    Thanks Mike.

    Every time you post a new design I look it over then I start saying now why did he do that, whats that, its to far over my head to understand but thats ok, it's just solder.

    Those parts around the motor (transistors?) the ones that have three legs, do I need more info on those, or can I just walk into radio shack, hand the guy your design and he will know what they are?
    It's the cake having/eating thing.

  2. #112
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    Mikes design look just fine to me, some resistor/caps may need adjusting/adding/removing cant really say how the circuit will perform until its built and tested...just a matter of trying it out really.

    The motor driver can be simplified...notice hes using 4 inputs to control the motor. Realistically you will only need 2 inputs...logic 1 on one input and logic 0 on the other cause the motor to rotate. Put logic 0 and logic 1 make the motor turn the other way. Both logic 0 on the inputs stop the motor. Those are the standard control for the H bridge circuit.

    As I said earlier on you can use a H bridge IC to simply and to make your design more compact.

    If you want you can still use the transistors version :

    http://www.solarbotics.net/library/c...arHbridge.html

    Notice this only have 2 inputs...this way you can save 2 PICs I/O for other use...either way both design will work. On the 4 input version, you will need to be very careful as not to short circuit the transistors if you coded the PIC wrong...the PIC putting a wrong combination into the transistor can cause them to short each other.

    Hope that helps

  3. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by more mods
    Those parts around the motor (transistors?) the ones that have three legs, do I need more info on those, or can I just walk into radio shack, hand the guy your design and he will know what they are?
    From my experiance, the guys at Radioshack are likely to not even know what a transistor is, let alone NPN vs PNP or BJT vs FET. So unless you are blessed with much more knowledgable Radioshack guys, I wouldn't count on it

    Edit: Looks to me like it calls for 3 each of PNP and NPN transistors, but I wouldn't take my word for it

  4. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky327
    Mikes design look just fine to me, some resistor/caps may need adjusting/adding/removing cant really say how the circuit will perform until its built and tested...just a matter of trying it out really.

    The motor driver can be simplified...notice hes using 4 inputs to control the motor. Realistically you will only need 2 inputs...logic 1 on one input and logic 0 on the other cause the motor to rotate. Put logic 0 and logic 1 make the motor turn the other way. Both logic 0 on the inputs stop the motor. Those are the standard control for the H bridge circuit.

    As I said earlier on you can use a H bridge IC to simply and to make your design more compact.

    If you want you can still use the transistors version :

    http://www.solarbotics.net/library/c...arHbridge.html

    Notice this only have 2 inputs...this way you can save 2 PICs I/O for other use...either way both design will work. On the 4 input version, you will need to be very careful as not to short circuit the transistors if you coded the PIC wrong...the PIC putting a wrong combination into the transistor can cause them to short each other.

    Hope that helps
    It has some nice features. I really like this one
    best of all is "smokeless"
    It's the cake having/eating thing.

  5. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by mushin
    From my experiance, the guys at Radioshack are likely to not even know what a transistor is, let alone NPN vs PNP or BJT vs FET. So unless you are blessed with much more knowledgable Radioshack guys, I wouldn't count on it

    Edit: Looks to me like it calls for 3 each of PNP and NPN transistors, but I wouldn't take my word for it
    Hmmm........well they know more then me. Really The guy's here do seem to know a good bit, but I don't know enough to judge them.
    It's the cake having/eating thing.

  6. #116
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    Mmmwaaahaha.......UPS payed a visit today, I ripped the box open, and wow somewhere mixed in with those green styro peanuts, I found this!



    I put a small wheel on the output shaft to see if I could turn it by hand, it didnt budge. I think this will make it great for use with touch screen. Then I put 5 volts to it, it's pretty quiet.
    It's the cake having/eating thing.

  7. #117
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    Is this how the h bridge goes?
    Does anything else need to be change?

    It's the cake having/eating thing.

  8. #118
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    Yup thats looking good.

    I havent read the whole thread properly so I may have missed something but what you gonna use the IGNITION OUT for? to drive something obviously but what?

    I expected the motor to be a bit bigger than that unless you have a big hands. I get a feeling it may not be strong enough, dunno just a thought.

    Best to build the circuit on breadboard first and start coding...the fun bit

  9. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky327
    Yup thats looking good.

    I havent read the whole thread properly so I may have missed something but what you gonna use the IGNITION OUT for? to drive something obviously but what?

    I expected the motor to be a bit bigger than that unless you have a big hands. I get a feeling it may not be strong enough, dunno just a thought.

    Best to build the circuit on breadboard first and start coding...the fun bit
    Ignition out goes to the opus ign. lead. This way the pc stays on till the door opens (the way new car radios do).

    Yep, the motor is really that small, but at almost 200:1 ratio its got some good torqe. I ran it off 4 AA batteries and it was pretty hard to stop. It may be a little to fast though. It's a 62 rpm motor and I only need 1/2 revolution to go from full cloed to full open, so thats about 1 second. I'll either have to add more gearing or maybe change the voltage some how.
    It's the cake having/eating thing.

  10. #120
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    Ignition out goes to the opus ign. lead. This way the pc stays on till the door opens (the way new car radios do).

    Ok I get it. You may get away with using just a transitor and a resistor for this.

    If the OPUS IGN input lead doesnt take much current for triggering then a pull-up resistor may be good enough to trigger it. If it can work ok by connecting a 1K - 10K resistor on the OPUS IGN input and a +12V then you can simplify the design further.

    The transistor is used to pull down the OPUS IGN input when needed.

    So you have something like :

    A 1K resistor is connected to the PICs output...the other end of this resistor is connect to the BASE of the NPN transistor. The EMITTER is connected to ground. The COLLECTOR is connected to a 1K-10K resistor and the other end is connected to +12V. The COLLECTOR is connected to the OPUS IGN input.

    Hope that make sense

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