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Thread: reversable motor for monitor?

  1. #41
    Maximum Bitrate mushin's Avatar
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    Regards to MikeH's diagram, above

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeH
    Picky...picky... OK, how's about ONE relay...
    Is it just me or does that "DPDT" switch look suspiciously like a DP3T switch?

    Looks like it'll do what you want though, more mods. The only downside I see to the design is that the relay coil is going to be energized the entire time you're driving. Which addmittedly isn't much power lost, but is somewhat... inelegant.

  2. #42
    Maximum Bitrate more mods's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mushin
    Is it just me or does that "DPDT" switch look suspiciously like a DP3T switch?

    Looks like it'll do what you want though, more mods. The only downside I see to the design is that the relay coil is going to be energized the entire time you're driving. Which addmittedly isn't much power lost, but is somewhat... inelegant.
    I have search all over the place for a 3pdt switch thats on-on-on. I only found 1, and I mean 1 place with 1 in stock, it was $54.00. Thats a bit much for a switch dont ya think? I welcome any ideas you would like to share.

  3. #43
    Maximum Bitrate mushin's Avatar
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    $54 eh? Ouch. It's not quite as elegant, but you can get the same effect with 2 dual terminal switches in series. You'll essentially have one 'auto / manual' switch and another 'in / out' switch. If you want, the in-out switch could be a on-off-on so that you can leave it in a intermediate position when in manual mode.

    Are you sure you were looking for the right thing? I sometimes get confused about this too, but I think what you want is a DP3T, not a 3PDT. In other words, 2 parallel inputs going to one of 3 outputs each, rather than 3 inputs going to one of 2 outputs each. These are fairly common, though most of what I've seen are slide switches. You'll probably want a toggle or rocker, which might be quite a bit harder to find. Or go with the 2 switch solution, above.

  4. #44
    FLAC
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    Sorry guys. It was late last night and there are some definite problems with the design I posted. The worst of which is, when you jog the screen from it's in or out limit, the limit switch closes and this forces it back it's limit point, overriding your manual jog......grrrrr.

    I'll ponder this a while more, but looks like a couple of latching relays run by the limit switches that hand power over to your manual jog switch (DP3T IS correct...sorry) will do the trick. But now we are back to a "bunch of relays". I was hoping this could be simple and elegant. But perhaps not.
    MikeH

  5. #45
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    This seems so simple at first, that is until you start drawing it out.

  6. #46
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    This is how my power window switch works. It does nothing in the center position. Moving it from one end to the other just reverses polarity.
    I would like to use this one because it matches my car, but if it cant be used I guess i'll just take what ever I can find.


  7. #47
    Raw Wave
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    If you look at the mechanism of a pop-up headlight on sport cars that might give you an idea.

    Its not easy to get around without a relay or a simple micro switch in/out sensors. A logic control or a PIC MCU is really needed if you wanna simplify the mechanical design of it.

    A CDROM tray mechanism can work but its not easy to rip out the control circuitry of it.

  8. #48
    Newbie Zensay's Avatar
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    A controller relay from one of those aut. antennar would maby work.
    M10000,256 DDR,80 Gb, PCI TV/Radio, D-Link Radio, PCI Audigy 2, Opus 150W, BU-301, Bluetooth, Wifi, Lilliput 7" Touch, Ifree RF Keyborad, USB 2.0 HUB, 2 Amps 600w 4 ch - 620w 2 ch, 6*9" 4-way(rear), 12" Alpine (Sub), 4" 3 way(front), center missing.

  9. #49
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    Does this look like it would work? I need the microswitches in there, but I don't know how they would work in this setup.

  10. #50
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    *bump*

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