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Thread: reversable motor for monitor?

  1. #51
    Maximum Bitrate mushin's Avatar
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    I guess whether this works depends entirely on what you're going for. It looks like you have a switch (toggle) that switches between a manual and auto mode, with another (rocker) to jog it in/out when in manual mode. I assume the 12V line is your ign. Because you have the ign switching the middle relay, when your ignition is off, it will *always* move to the closed state.

    Is that what you want, or do you want to be able to move the montor when your car is off?

    If you want to be able to control it with the ign off, you should go back to MikeH's last schematic, modified a little bit. It also has the advantage of being somewhat simpler, using only one relay. I'll explain it in more detail if that's what you want to do.

    <edit>
    Oh, for the microswitches, you should stick them in on the 5V power lines right before the top relay, after they split. They won't cut power when in manual mode, but since that's a momentary anyway, it shouldn't matter much.

  2. #52
    Maximum Bitrate more mods's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mushin
    I guess whether this works depends entirely on what you're going for. It looks like you have a switch (toggle) that switches between a manual and auto mode, with another (rocker) to jog it in/out when in manual mode. I assume the 12V line is your ign. Because you have the ign switching the middle relay, when your ignition is off, it will *always* move to the closed state.

    Is that what you want, or do you want to be able to move the montor when your car is off?

    If you want to be able to control it with the ign off, you should go back to MikeH's last schematic, modified a little bit. It also has the advantage of being somewhat simpler, using only one relay. I'll explain it in more detail if that's what you want to do.

    <edit>
    Oh, for the microswitches, you should stick them in on the 5V power lines right before the top relay, after they split. They won't cut power when in manual mode, but since that's a momentary anyway, it shouldn't matter much.
    Yes, it should work like that. I could change the toggle to a DPDT and have ign. in to auto, and bat. in to man. First I have to work out how to wire the limit switches.

    Could you give me more detail on how to wire the limit switches. I know I cant just have a switch that breaks the circuit, because then the motor couldnt run again until the switch was closed and the switch wouldnt close until the motor ran.

    Oh, btw Mike said his would not work.

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeH
    Sorry guys. It was late last night and there are some definite problems with the design I posted. The worst of which is, when you jog the screen from it's in or out limit, the limit switch closes and this forces it back it's limit point, overriding your manual jog......grrrrr.

  3. #53
    Variable Bitrate choyak's Avatar
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    Ahh it could be something similar to a garage door opener with the limit switches. The limit switch can only prevent the direction that it is in, not the opposite direction, and it has to stop completely or it will go in a loop.
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  4. #54
    Maximum Bitrate mushin's Avatar
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    Ok, limit switches:

    relay (the top one in your diagram)
    o o
    | |
    \ \ <- switches
    | |
    5v ------------

    Basically, each switch would only break the circuit going in one direction. So you would be free to move the motor back the other way, which would then release the switch.

    The problem with Mike's was that it couldn't maintain an intermediate position. That's why I said "modified a little bit" Basically you'd put another switch in there.

    <edit>
    Gah! It cut all the white space out of my ASCII schematic! I hope it still makes some sense....

  5. #55
    Maximum Bitrate more mods's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mushin
    Ok, limit switches:

    relay (the top one in your diagram)
    o o
    | |
    \ \ <- switches
    | |
    5v ------------

    Basically, each switch would only break the circuit going in one direction. So you would be free to move the motor back the other way, which would then release the switch.

    The problem with Mike's was that it couldn't maintain an intermediate position. That's why I said "modified a little bit" Basically you'd put another switch in there.

    <edit>
    Gah! It cut all the white space out of my ASCII schematic! I hope it still makes some sense....
    Sorry, but I don't understand. Can you draw it out? I'm not that good at this so I need a lot of detail.

  6. #56
    Maximum Bitrate more mods's Avatar
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    ok, what do you guys think about this one. mushin showed me how/where the travel limit switches go (thanks mushin). Does this one look like it will work? Do you see any problems with it?

  7. #57
    Variable Bitrate stimps's Avatar
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    Do a search for a guy that has done a MP3 Car project, with a Flourescent LCD display, that comes out of the top of the dashboard when he starts up, and it folds back in when he shuts the car down. He used a R/C servo motor and a small circiut (easy to biuld) to control it. No Limit switches. Its programmable too so you can adjust it to operate sweet. I was all ready to do something like this, made the printed circiut board and got the parts, and then didnt do anything more (got side tracked i guess)

    Have a look on google you never know you might find it.
    (had a look just quickly couldnt locate it.)
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  8. #58
    Constant Bitrate CHUPACABRA's Avatar
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    Why dont you just use a power side mirror setup that way you get full controle!!!!!

    P.S. whats up with that clarion mod for MC??
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  9. #59
    Maximum Bitrate more mods's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHUPACABRA
    Why dont you just use a power side mirror setup that way you get full controle!!!!!
    Yep, I have one that I took apart. The problem with that is the pivot point, its set back to far. Go and move your mirror and watch the gap around it grow. Another problem (at least for me) is because it pivots in the center, when one side moves out the other moves back. I just wanted a close fit (no big gaps). However it would be a great solution for someone.

  10. #60
    Constant Bitrate CHUPACABRA's Avatar
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    close the gap with a peice of latex or some strech fabric thats what I use for my 15'' indash gap.
    2-15" ILO lcd w/DVI
    6800 gt Duel DVI out
    p4 1.6ghz flex atx board
    1gb 400 ram
    120gb(2-60gb raid) sata hd
    2-60gb hotswap
    WIN2K Pro SP2
    M.A.M.E. w/2,300 games
    CARPuter info

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