Well, I ordered a Shuttle XPC SN41G2V2. I allready have an AMD XP1800+ and 512mb of memory. It comes with an onboard GeForce 4MX, 1 PCI Slot and 1 AGP8X Slot. USB2.0...and all the other essentials. I do not plan to keep the case and silentX power supply. This is going to go into a smaller case and be mounted under one of the seats. The ECU will be mounted under the other seat.
This is going inside a 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT. I'm doing a dash swap from a 99 Civic possibly. Something sporty and the right size with a dual din hole is a must, and so far the Civic or the Eclipse dash is the choice. Either one will be just as easy as the other, I'm sure some kind of trimming or modifying will have to be done, especialy to the electronics on the dash. Somewheres by where the screen will be mounted, I will have the 2 USB Ports, 1 FireWire port, and the HEadphones/Mic ports mounted flush mount. I'm having one problem tho, DVD! I know a nice slim DVD/CDRW that I like that I can get for 75 bucks. But the thing is, I'm needing to find a place on one of those dash's to mount it flush mount, and I'm going to have to find a LONG 40 pin IDE / 44 pin Laptop cable to go from the computer to the place of mount, I have no clue how to pull this off.
I'm also gonna have to find out what kind of power supply would work best for this XPC Motherboard. I belive its the same that the ITX motherboards use (ATX) and I've found multiple companies that sell them from 15 bucks to 50 bucks depending on power, but I dont know what will be the best.
Any idea's will be apretiated.
CPU Support: AMD Athlon/XP/Duron (Socket A, Max.FSB 333)
Chipsets: nVidia nForce2 / MCP-T
Memory: 2x 184pin (DDR400 up to 2GB)
IDE: 2x ATA133
Graphics: Build in Geforce4 MX
Expansion Slot: 1x PCI, 1x AGP 8X
Audio: Realtek ALC 650 supports 5.1 channel audio
LAN: On board Realtek 8201BL
Extension Bay: 2x 3.5", 1x 5.25"
Front Panel Ports: 2x USB, 1x 1394, 1x SPDIF_Out, Audio ports
Back Panel Ports: 2x COM, 2x PS/2, 2x VGA, 1x S-Video, 1x RJ45, 2x 1394, 2x USB, Audio ports
Power Supply: 250W Silent X (PFC)
Just get an OPUS for shuttle case. It will power up no problem. I am running the same XPC with ATI AIW 9600PRO, Sound Blaster Audigy 2, and XP2800.
For the SlimDVD, it's better to convert it to USB and run to back to where your computer is. Personally I am using this Slim USB 2.0 combo drive. http://www.compusmart.com/product.as...7CCombo+Drives
HAHA, I have like 3 Lacie products. actualy 2 now that I think about it. A Hard Drive and a DVDRW.
Do you know where I can buy just the enclosure? Because I dont like that type of drive....I want a slot load.
hey NightFire, how will you be modding those other dashboards to fit?
The reason I ask is I have a Tahoe I want to mount a screen in, but to keep from having to chop up like crazy I chose an in-dash pull out screen. But I would have really preffered to mount it permanently. So I am always looking for advice...
Ok. Well if you know anything about Fiero's, you know they are the worlds #1 modified car. Fiberglass body, somewhat square cockpit...everything is availible for customizing.
So to start off with finding a good dash swap. I measure 2 things. I measure from the inside of the driverside window (the outside of the door skin, the part you dont see thats mounted to the door) to the opposite side to get an idea of how wide the interior is inside from mounting point. Then I measure how long is it from the front of the door skin to the back and the same with the fiero's.
Then I can get an idea of the mods that will have to be done.
I'm not going to go all out and fabricate mounts on this dash or door skins, I'm just going to get it inside the car and mounted so that nothing rattles or moves. So first things first, Mounting the door skins. The dash of the car that your gettin rid of the dash from, must be out so you can close the door with the door skin attatched or attatch it from the inside....the best way to do this, is get the rear side of the door skin mounted properly, lined up and everything so when you close the door, its flush with the interior, now if the front of the door skin don't line up right meaning its too long, start trimming to make it fit...you wont realy see this, so you can trim it and possibly throw some body filler over where you trimmed and sand it down...detail a little afterwards to make sure things look perfect. Then comes the dash...
All I'm doing is I'm going to strip all the electronics off the dash, and the glove compartment, and I have a friend help me push it up against the firewall where the original dash was. If its pushed out too much towards the rear after we push it as far as we can, I'll trim the things holding it back and I will line it up to the matching door skins. Once I get it to match up to the door skins, I will become very flexible and use zip ties to tie it up as best as possible and after I make sure I have it tighter then humanly possible, I will make some mounts just for like the two sides and the center so the zip ties aren't the only thing holding it up.
The interior should be complete then...all the electronics will have to be rewired to work, but thats no problem for me....
I'm thinkin of using a 99 civic dash so it has the double din hole. The 8" screen will be a perfect match to flush mount things, but there's a problem with the ac controls being in the way. So what I'm going to do is pull the stuff apart and trim the inside so I can get the screen perfectly centered. Then I'm going to do a little body moulding with either fiberglass or body filler so that it will look like it came with the car. The buttons on the screen wont be visible, So I will have to get a USB I/R Sensor for the remote and mount it somewheres on the dash as well.
IF any of this didn't help, please be more specific and I'll do better.