Typically what is quoted for AMD processors is the TDP of a "family". That is, that's the most amount of power that a top-end processor of that line will draw.
well i found out semprons are all 62 watt processors.
Base on my Sproggy spec, Opus spec, and my old AC PSU spec, the OPUS 150W can't power my setup (Opus only have 10A on 5V rail) because the mobo use more power on 5V rail.Originally Posted by fuctup
Fuctup: Yes voltage is a part of the output wattage. From the wattage calculator though it seems that speed is a bigger portion.
The XP-M processors are great for over and underclocking. Stock they output around 45 watts of heat. I currently have a XP-M 2500 (1.83 Ghz @ 1.45 V, stock) that I now have it running at 1.2 Ghz @ 1.3 volts (around 20-23 watts heat output tops) in a server. Ofcourse, as MatrixPC found most motherboards don't know what this little processor is. This is because it doesn't have several of the L bridges set. This is for processor stepping to allow the motherboard to underclock the processor as when there isn't a need for speed (like being AFK or probably while viewing this thread). This reduces heat overall. So for you to use one of these processors without doing pin mods or cutting into the chip you will want to run this processor in a board that supports overclocking and manual control over the processor's settings. Bad thing about this is that this will mean a full size motherboard. Good thing is that you can underclock this processor as you see fit in BIOS for whatever ambient temperatures you need to compensate for.
Note: Although the processor is designed to allow BOIS software multiplier variation, to my knowledge no desktop motherboard to my knowledge supports this.
Also note: I have heard of the XP's out performing the Semperons. Why would AMD do this? I don't know.
If anyone would like more info on this let me know. These little proc's are great and are extremely overclockable. I put one at 2.8 Ghz which out benchmarked my AMD64 3200, a friend's FX-51, and another friend's 3.0 Prescott, all with the premium parts. (We were all really ****ed.)
Originally Posted by MatrixPC
Also MatrixPC, if you didn't want to dig into the PSU so much or replace it you may also find that adding a small 5V cap to the 5V rail may very well solve your problem although I might add a 12V cap to the 12V rail also. Many times a PC freezing when the CD/DVD device is accessed it's being caused by a surge on the 12V rail. Many motherboards also feed processor off of this rail and the surge from the CD/DVD drive causes an undervoltage on this rail making the processor freeze.
XPs out performing semprons = semprons are amds new budget processor, XPs are faster. semprons = renamed durons.Originally Posted by YouEatLard
i have overclocked before, i never noticed if i could underclock tho.. that may help alot. i always thought the bus speed only goes as low as the stock, like 200 on a 200fsb chip and u can only go up.. do all motherboards that support changing the bus speed alow underclocking?.
by multiplier variation do you mean like speedstep on pentium M chips? cause thats pretty worthless unless your saving battery power in a laptop.
I do realize that the Semprons are the new budget proc, but for the extra performance I see no reason not to spend the extra $4 to $20 in many cases and get the XP. Justa though. However, these chips do have a crippled cashe at 256 so who knows, for a cooler system these may be the way to go.
Yes you can take FSB up or down on probably any chip. If I wanted I could run my chips at 100Mhz X 10+ although I'd much rather keep the FSB higher. This keeps RAM and motherboard performance optimal. However, running at 400Mhz your motherboard will generate considerable heat also. Not all motherboards support user FSB modification, but if most have at least the basic capability to modify the FSB in increments of 33 or smaller. Many will also have a low end underclock for processor protection. Perhaps the motherboard senses something wrong, you tarded up the last overclock, or the motherboard doesn't recognize the processor. It may run the proc at say 100 X 5.
At any rate, check the motherboard manual for further info on FSB modification. Like I said though, micro boards are usually very limited in this area.
Yes by multiplier variation I did mean like speedstepping. Yes, it is great for battery life, but consider, if the extra power not used stays in your battery then it's not generating heat. I would think the PC would probably back the whole way down to 200-400 Mhz if only playing Mp3's. As I said though this would require a laptop motherboard.
You mean adding an extra capacitor to the 5V rail?Originally Posted by YouEatLard
How about a bigger capacitor (1000uF instead of 470uF currently)?
I modified the PCB a little to have the PSU output 3.3V@5A, 5.0V@15A, and 2-12V@5A each. Currently, one of the 12V@5A is to power the mobo. The other 12V is to power the HD and DVD-ROM. So far, I have to problem runnining the computer, watch DVD, Copy files, regardless of the car is running or not.
The only problem I have is during CRANKING. The computer freeze when I crank start the car. I think my problem is due to the tiny battery that Toyota put in this car. Only 380 CCA or something and a lot of owners complain about that tiny battery. I will replace the battery with an Optima Yellow or Red top battery to see what next.
Originally I thought the problem was caused by accessing the CD/DVD device any time, the extra cap or a bigger cap may fix that problem, although it might fix your current problem too. It sounds like you probably figured it out though with the battery. Do you remember if the display on your original car stereo would dim or die when you turned on the car? My original car battery was a 500 CCA battery. I currently have a Optima Red top which I think outputs around 800. Just now I went out and started the car up and the stereo still died during the start. So I'm thinking that if you want your PC to run through the car starting you'll need the PC to beable to run for 1-2 seconds with out relying on the battery's input. More cap is the only way I know of to do this without a second battey.
If you do try a bigger battery and it works let me know.