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Thread: 400$ computer

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by EBFoxbat
    Motherboard + AMD 2500 CPU $130
    Generic 256MB PC2100 RAM $50
    GeForce MX 4000 Video Card $40
    Generic Case with PSU $35
    Generic Heatsink/Fan $15

    Assuming you reuse drives, that leaves you $130 for a new inverter.
    I have a few questions:

    How would you connect a regular power supply like that to the car? I know that if you have the OPUS, you would be able to connect the three cables to the ignition and the + and - to the battery. Am I correct? Correct me if I'm wrong because I'm thinking of doing something like this soon.

    Also, if you have your computer in the trunk, how do you run your wires from the trunk to the front with the wires hidden?

  2. #52
    Maximum Bitrate EBFoxbat's Avatar
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    Scouse Monkey Seriously man, I didn't mean to **** you off. I've used plenty of MPs. I sit here now typing on my MP2500. Because I overclock. I was just thinking that instead of fussing over a board with multiplier capabilities, you could just get an XP. Obviously you know what you're doing so feel free to do what you like.

    HAving built a million and one systems usiong MPs (mostly for HTPCs because they run cooler) I have experienced that probabaly 75% of motherboards correctly ID the CPU. Most of the rest will do so with a BIOS flash. I can't speak for ASUS as I've only built a few systems none of which were MP. To be honest, unless I'm overclocking, which I only do for me, I don't look multiplier options.

    The "If you are looking to have a high performance rig in your car, then you're probabaly going to have a high performance motherboard. If that's the case, you wouldn't care about price. Nor, for that matter, be asking questions in this forum." wasn't aimed at you at all. So relax. Sorry I ****ed you off. The point of this thread was to help Slitha
    ,./(0)3

    '04 Canyon 4x4 pickup

    [---PC on hold----working on external fiberglass "tool" box---]

  3. #53
    Maximum Bitrate EBFoxbat's Avatar
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    BigfootsMonk-

    the PSU I outlined is a standard PC ATX power supply. It would be plugged into an inverter.

    The inverter would be directly wired to the car's battery.

    Running wires from the trunk to where you need them can be done by going under the floor carpeting or over the roof panel. Some car's have room over the roof panel some do not. Running wires under the floor carpeting can allow you to better isolate power cables from data cables from audio cables which can help reduce interferance.
    ,./(0)3

    '04 Canyon 4x4 pickup

    [---PC on hold----working on external fiberglass "tool" box---]

  4. #54
    MySQL Error Scouse Monkey's Avatar
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    EBFoxbat: No worries dude, thought that comment was aimed at me. I thought you were running a mobile XP in your PC and overclocking it. I want it for the opposite reasons to you though - i want to minimise the power usage of my PC and the mobile lets me do this as it runs at very low voltage and already has low power consumption and they are about 1/3rd of the price of mobile P4s yet it packs the punch of a power processor not like a celeron or duron.

    Back to Slitha: it all boils back down to the 1st page i think with foxbats and mine suggestions. If you want a nice small solution go epia with an Opus 90 or maybe the new mp3car PSU (M1-ATX) as i think this is camparable but a lot cheaper. But i am not sure if the 800x480 issue has been cracked on the epias yet (i keep away from them as i am not interested in them as the benefits of putting them inside the dash are a no go for me as i don't have the room) and also the epia sound is crap (allegedly) but you can always buy a PCI, USB2 or PCMCIA audigy with some of the money you save from the cheaper PSU.

    If you go the intel micro ATX route you are probably looking at via graphics again (not great) or possibly intel extreme or getting a separate AGP card (which would let you run custom resolution) but this will be expensive and need an opus and you would probably want to go celeron to keep costs down.

    If you go micro ATX athlon then you can then look at an nforce2 with IGP which means you get geforce4mx graphics which support custom resolutions however you will probably want 512mb of ram as the memory is shared. This also gives you the later option of upgrading grpahics etc. If you do this i know there is an epox board that will run the mobile athlon and the biostar might but has opus issues but for ease of use jsut go with an athlon XP (2200-2500 is more than enough) or maybe a sempron which are very cheap and like celerons and durons. You can get via athlon boards very cheap but you will most likely want to upgrade the graphics etc which will offset the saving and add complexity and the nforce2 standard is very good.

    You could also go P4 ITX which is not something i know a lot about but the boards are quite expensive i think and again they have pretty poor standard graphics i think

    As for power - you seem to want to keep away from inverters again and to be honest i don't blame you. The opus 90W will be ok for an epia but you would need the 150 or 200 for anything more and to be honest although it is half your money it is the backbone of your setup as it is not only the power supply but controls the shutdown and startup - a decent startup and shutdown is what really makes your pc feel like part of your car. Also you can get the rest of the ssystem for around $200 eg sing foxbats original list:

    using newegg as i only know uk shows and newegg seems popular with you yanks:

    micro ATX nforce2 IGP $70
    amd sempron $50-70 (2200-2500) or $80 for athlon XP 2500 or XP-M
    512mb RAM (PC2700 can add another stick later) $60

    whcih gives a minium of $180 for an athlon semperon 2200 (1,5ghz) with 512mb ram and nforce2 graphics and sound with loads of USB2 and possibly firewire.

    Then you have $220 left for the Opus + there will be things like cables etc and HDD but if you can salvage these from your old PC then even better.

    Finally as for the case: al you need is a good strong bit yo mount your Pc too so use the metal from the old case or use it as a tmeplate and make the parts form sheeat metal. YOu need the panelt o mount the mobo to and the bit round the corner for the connector panel. The rest depends on how you are going to install it. and you can use the left over metal to create drive holders etc and then put a nice plexi window over your mobo if you want to show off.

    Also what screen do you have? and what car? any pics?

  5. #55
    MySQL Error Scouse Monkey's Avatar
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    If you go inverter again you will pobably want a new inverter, a new ATX PSU and a shut down controller - all ov which add up and you can only hope it all works as well as an opus all in one.

  6. #56
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    Thank you so much for the help scouse...I have the DWW-7VGT from digitalww as the screen. Seems this is the one thing in my damn car that doesnt give me problems..highly recomend this screen.

    For the pictures...ill attach some. Its in a 2004 Corolla-S.

    Scouse: I will look seriously into the suggestion you made cause it seems like thats the most feasable solution. Building the case is goign to be very difficult, as i dont know what all and how everything is mounted. I will be able to figure it out most likely. The part i dont get you said something about corner mounting.
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  8. #58
    Maximum Bitrate EBFoxbat's Avatar
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    I think you also might want to consider a nVidia video setup. This would allow you to, as Scouse said, make custom resolutions like the 800x480 you'll need for your DWW-7VGT. Also, importantly, it will alow you to rotate the display 180 degrees. It looks like you'll need to do that because of how your screen is mounted.

    This is what I conclude: (Scouse is gonna chew my *** out for this) you want a low power microATX setup.


    Chaintech 7NIF2 $90
    256MB PC2100 RAM $50
    AMD Sempron 2300+ $53
    Powmax Micro ATX Case $35

    That case includes a 230 Watt power supply. You could buy and inverter and use that power supply. If you want to go without an inverter, you could use an Opus 150. The system might run on 90 watts. If you want to take the chance you can buy the new M1-ATX from this site. It's cheap and I'm sure you could resell it if needed. You can add up power consumption yourself by doing research on all your components. It primerally revolves around how much power your CPU draws. this is why scouse uses an MP CPU. They draw much less power but require motherboards to have specific features. I'd roccomend buying those parts and an OPUS 150.

    You can remove the 230watt power supply that comes with the case and put the OPUS in it's place. You then run +12v from the car's + battery terminal. ( You have you use the right gauge wire and fuses, but the OPUS manual explains this). You run the - from the OPUS to the ground of your car, usually the closest available ground someplace on your car's frame (under the trunk carpet) The OPUS has a pretty nice startup controller built in. You need to run a wire from your ignition status lead (usually yellow and someplace behind your stereo) to the IGN input on the OPUS. You can hardwire this and bypass the startup/shutdown controller by running regular +12v to the IGN lead. But that get's fancy and you're not quite there yet.

    I'm pretty drugged up on flu meds so if this makes no sense, let me know.
    ,./(0)3

    '04 Canyon 4x4 pickup

    [---PC on hold----working on external fiberglass "tool" box---]

  9. #59
    MySQL Error Scouse Monkey's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=EBFoxbat]
    This is what I conclude: (Scouse is gonna chew my *** out for this) you want a low power microATX setup.

    Chaintech 7NIF2 $90
    256MB PC2100 RAM $50
    AMD Sempron 2300+ $53
    Powmax Micro ATX Case $35
    [quote]

    Foxbat - i'll take that as a complement - hehe

    As for the mobo - yeah good choice - was looking at that on new egg. The chaintech has svideo out as well as vga which is nice and may (although i am not going back into that have full manual cpu settings - might look at that for myself if i can find a uk supplier)
    As for the memory - you may want PC2700 - not sure though as i have only ever built one PC with DDR last year for a friend - i still use PC133 SDRAM - old school!!!
    Also i really would pay a lil extra and get 512 due to the whole on board graphics sharing thing.
    Sempron - they look pretty good and should have enough power for you.
    As for the case - if you really don't want to make one then yeah something like that is perfect.
    For power - yeah the M1-ATX might just do it for your mobo and CPU and maybe 1 laptop drive but i think it will be tight. You can always power some other DC-DC supplies switched on my the M1 but that is getting messy and don't forget you can also power your screen off the opus which should ensure it lives a long and happy life in your car.

    On a side note, i have been looking at new egg for stuff for you as i am in the uk and don't know any good US stores and i have to say their site is excellent - it was so nice to be able to select the exact mobo specs i wanted to look for and have good accurate info ont he specs. Has anyone int he UK ordered from them? That tiger direct also seemed good but what is this rebate stuff all about?

    ahh foxbat - just looked at the sempron 2200 and it has 266 fsb so i am guessing thats why you need PC2100 to make the memory multiplier nice and easy (2Xsystem). I would be tempted to maybe push the envelope a little and for for a 2400 or 2500 and get the faster PC2700 ram as it may be a bit more upgradable that way.

    As for building the case - 1stly i had to laugh when i saw your 1st pic with the tower int he boot!

    Open a PC case and look how the mobo is attached to the side wall and also see how the case bends round the back to form the back plate where allthe connectors are ie an L shape. Thats is all you need to then mount to the side of your boot ot to the floor (more ideal i would say to have a mobo flat so there is less load on the CPU legs and PCI slots but others may advise you better). You can then make some kind of close fitting enclosure using metal brackets and MDF etc and then carpet it. Have a look at some boot installs in the completed projects section. It realy isnt that hard to make a pc enclosure in your boot but make sure youhave a good solid side for PCI cards to bolt to if you use any (although you wont need to with that mobo) and add some venting and fans that crap cant fall into and lond on your bare circuit boards. Making the enclosure is were you can really individualise your project and make it something to be proud of when you look in your boot as well as hiding it from prying eyes when you open your boot. A well laid out system is more reliable and easier to work on and quite fankly i think a PC case is crap in my house nevermind in my car! so hard to work inside. Maybe get a cheap case and remove the top and the front etc.

    I am glad you had that screen as it justifies my whole argument for using the nforce IGP chipset.

    Laters

    Andy

  10. #60
    MySQL Error Scouse Monkey's Avatar
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    Slitha, this is the bit of case i am talking about and looks a nice strong example too as it has lots of folding wound the pci card bit. http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...165#post348165

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