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Thread: Am I exhausting my USB inputs? How many devices is too much?

  1. #21
    Variable Bitrate heezer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jusatry
    could be unused MB headers?
    Would be nice if there were headers or soemthing to add more. Only having 2 sucks when you are on the go without a hub...

  2. #22
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    Regarding ummagawd's question asking for a recommendation for a nice small powered hub that will be easy to power up, this is the hub I'm using. Smallest one out there (I think) and takes +5v for external power. I get mine off the computer PS.

    http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProdu...duct_Id=166888

  3. #23
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    I think it depends on where you want to put it. I have 3 like this that work well in a flat space, like under the carpet, but they are much wider than that Belkin.

  4. #24
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    Just thought I'd throw in my experience. I had an unpowered 4-port USB 1.1 hub in my dash running the touch for my lilli and a griffin powermate. When I plugged in a USB quick drive (one of those things that is about as long as a cigarette and 3 times as wide, for transferring files quickly, i dont remember the name), XP told me the hub power was exceeded, plus I had been having intermittant issues with the Griffin even without the USB drive plugged in.
    So I powered my hub via the other half the molex that I had tapped for the lilli power and now everything is going swimmingly.
    Moral: Even if powering via the USB bus will work, you'll get a more reliable connection running power to it. PLUS the added advantage that the USB devices will NOT draw power when the computer is off because the power supply will kill the power to the molex when powered-down, but to kill power to the USB bus you have to do some complicated crap.

  5. #25
    Constant Bitrate sanbas's Avatar
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    I am trying to get all my wiring ran through this week...one of you guys who are powering the USB hub and xenarc clarify something for me...this is how I understand it from my reading.

    ----- POWERED USB HUB -------
    for example take this hub... newegg powered usb hub mentioned earlier. All i need to do is CUT the plug part off and splice a wire from it to the opus 5V line (yellow is 5v and red is 12v...i think?). What about the other wire off the plug, does that just go to the car chassis ground? AND how do i know which wire goes to the opus and which goes to ground?

    ----- Xenarc 700TSV (coming in this thrusday ) -----
    Same thing applies to this? One end to the 12v and the other to the car chassis?

    Are fuses necessary?


    THANKS FOR CLEARING THIS UP FOR ME...or am i way offff??

  6. #26
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    Okay, first off. I'm pretty sure red is the +5 and yellow is +12 and the two blacks are GND.

    If you want to power both the Xenarc and the USB up front, all you have to do is run one molex up to the dash, then take the +5 and one GND to the USB hub, and the +12 and the remaining GND to the Xenarc.

    As for the physical steps. What I did with the USB hub was literally snip the factory USB power plug about an inch below where the A/C adapter plugged into the wall, so all I had was a long wire with the appropriate plug on the end to plug into the USB hub. Then simply crimp the +5 from the molex to the positive from the recently-snipped line, and crimp a GND to the other wire from the recently-snipped line. The trick is figuring out which is which. I dismantled the AC/DC part and checked where the wires connected to the board itself and they were labeled + & - on there.

    Same basic theory goes for the Xenarc, though I have a lilli so I wont pretend I know more about it than I do.

    That all make sense?
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  7. #27
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    So all you have to do is remove the AC plug, the transformer, and hook it up to the 5V line, and you are all set? Cool!

    As for the USB ports, I just found out the hard way that my Linksys 802.11g adapter needs to be on its own USB port since it uses so much current. When I plugged it into a non-powered hub, XP actually popped up an error message telling me that there wasn't enough current to power the Linksys wireless adapter.

    As for connecting it to a molex connector, I just had to build a custom serial connector for my GPS, what I did was grab one of the many old heatsink/fan combos I had laying around, and disconnected the cable from the fan, as the fan was using 12+VDC (yellow), and was attached to a pass-through molex connector, so it worked out pretty well. I will probably do the same thing for the USB hub, but hooked up to the 5V line instead.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by electron
    Don't most USB hubs have transformers? You would have remove it as well when hooking it up to the PSU, correct (since it expects 110v)?
    Let me start by saying, this only goes to my particular hub, it is possible that other hubs work differently.
    The USB hub itself never actually "sees" any AC current, even when plugged into the wall. There is power adapter that plugs into the AC in the wall and converts it to +5v DC current. That's exactly what the Opus puts out on the molex.

    When I said I snipped the wire just below where it plugs into the wall, my USB hub has the AC/DC adapter on the piece that plugs into the wall itself (as I would think most do). Look at that unit itself, it tells you the input & output it supplies. Mine said it took AC input and put out +5 output. That's exactly what the molex puts out. I'd imagine the hub itself doesn't even know the difference.
    A car without turbo is a car with perpetual lag.

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  9. #29
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    yeah you are right, I just remembered what my AC adapter looked like (been a while since I touched it), and I do remember reading 5VDC as the output. I am going to look at my Xenarc, I will probably buy a female cig. lighter adapter, and connect it to the 12V rail using another one of those heatsink/fan molex pass-through connectors. Thanks for the tip!

  10. #30
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    this is some good information guys, keep up the good work!

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