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Thread: HOW TO TURN ON LAPTOP IF YOU CANT REACH BUTTON any input device that can turn it on?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaHk
    isnt there a way to make the laptop start by taking advantage of the W.O.L. feature somehow?
    I have a Dell Latitude C600 running Windows XP. I enabled the "Ring/Event Resume" setting within the BIOS. Also while in the system BIOS I set the computer to suspend after 1 minute. After waiting 1 mintue the system suspends and I am able to wake it back up after ring through the serial port.

    It just doesn't work in Windows XP.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony N.
    Im having the same problem since my button is just like that......
    If you figure it out let me know how you did it.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackflux
    ^^That cuts the laptop on and off?

    It can, to turn it on. Enable "start on any button" if your bios has that option.
    And to turn it off just either get a cmd script. or see if an option is in the software

  3. #33
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    ^^don't have that option in laptops. Well at least in the one I have.
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  4. #34
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    oh.. well if you wanted to go an on and off button, you get wire up a lan cable and enable "wake of lan" if it has that

  5. #35
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    I just got mine working, I pulled my little board along with the button off and it has like 10 pins in 2 rows. Then I sodered 2 wires to the underside of the board that turns it on and off and it works Yay!
    Here is a crappy diagram:
    Working on install........under construction.............

  6. #36
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    You soldered directly to the connector? What happens when you flip the switch, does it cut on and off?
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  7. #37
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    Yea I used a small wire and sodered directly to connector under the pushbutton, It's a momentary button so just a press and it turns on and off. Lets see if i can get some pics.......
    Working on install........under construction.............

  8. #38
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    ^^^yeah post some pictures...
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by shotgunefx
    My bad. Should have link this as well.
    Basically using a RC circuit (Resistor/Capacitor) circuit. On my laptop, if you short out the power it works, for about 2 seconds and then reboots, over and over and over. So I needed to press it only for a fraction of a second.

    DC Current flows through a capacitor until the plates have an equal charge. Until then, current flows.
    The resistor is used to manipulate how long the cap takes to charge. Until the cap is charged, the circuit is closed (pressed). When it's charged, current stops and the circuit is open. (unpressed)

    So that's how I'm simulating the press.
    Link not working.
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  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackflux
    Link not working.
    Works for me. Maybe there is a dns problem?

    Anyway here's what that post includes. Though one change since. For R1, used a small trimmer pot instead of a resistor. It's just much easier to adjust then resoldering resistors. I'm also going to pull this and add an led so I can see most of the "push". You might want to do this yourself.


    Quote Originally Posted by My blog
    Disclaimer: I am not engineer. Use at your own risk.

    So I need to mod the power button to press when the key is in the ignition. Here's the circuit I'm using.



    The 4n25 is an optoisolator. Basically an led and a phototransistor in one package. They are cheap. Should be able to get one for under 50 cents. There are 6 pins. We shall ignore pin 3 and 6.

    Here's how it works. The cap charges through R1. While it's charging, current flows through the led inside the 4n25 which let's current flow on the transistor side. Effectively pressing the switch. Once it reaches the input voltage, the cap acts as an open circuit, and stops "pressing".

    R2 is a high ohm resistor. >20,000Kohm. This lets the cap discharge after power is removed. Otherwise, it would be awhile before it could "press" again.

    Basically, by varying R1 and C, you can decide how long it will "press" for.
    The formula is:
    R(ohms) * C(farads) = seconds till ~63% charged (This is the RC constant, or so I'm told )

    The one thing to be careful of is that the 4n25 can't take much current without burning out. Around 5ma. (You can go higher for short periods.)

    Which leads me to R3. R3 is optional. As I kept playing with different values for R1 and C, I once let too much current flow through the isolator and broke one. So R3 is going to limit current to protect the 4n25.

    You don't need it if your values for R1 and C don't let too much current flow.

    From my pile of parts, I used the following.
    4n25
    C = 5 mfd
    R1 = 10000 ohms
    R2 = 27000 ohms
    R3 = 2200 ohms

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