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Thread: Wiring backup/Rearview camera -- can engine crank damage?!

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadhog
    Why you little....! ok you explain it in more depth than I did.
    Oops I didn't even see your post lol...skipped right over it

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackboot
    Oops I didn't even see your post lol...skipped right over it

    Not surprising, as he mainly posts brown yeucchhy stuff

  3. #43
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    I wired my ebay bought reverse camera directly to +12v from the battery (switched of course).

    Problem I have, and is noted, is that the cameras typically requires a very clean supply, which the car does not have. Using car power gives some noise in the video signal. The cameras do say that "car power" is an acceptable input, so I am assuming that there is some built in over voltage protection.

    My plans were to always put a low current wide range input voltage regulator to power the camera. Something with 9-24v input, and a clean 12v out. These are pretty common, and run anywhere from $20-70 and are about the size of 2 matchboxes. I plan to do this the next time I have a desire to do some re-wiring.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by sivart321
    My plans were to always put a low current wide range input voltage regulator to power the camera. Something with 9-24v input, and a clean 12v out. These are pretty common, and run anywhere from $20-70 and are about the size of 2 matchboxes. I plan to do this the next time I have a desire to do some re-wiring.
    siavrt: if you can point me to a source that carries those particular regulators please let me know.
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  5. #45
    Variable Bitrate roadhog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enforcer
    Not surprising, as he mainly posts brown yeucchhy stuff
    There's the door.


















    Use it.




























    & flog the rest on ebay

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by justintime
    siavrt: if you can point me to a source that carries those particular regulators please let me know.
    I'll have to look again. I had them at work, and figured I would just use those.

    They were something like 6-24v input, 12v output at 3 amps, 83+% efficient and had a very clean output. I printed out the specs from their website online, but cannot seem to find them now. I was told the ones we had in house cost around ~$70, but I found some for considerably cheaper. I have also heard you can get samples for free.

    I'll let you know.

  7. #47
    Raw Wave justintime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrataG
    Somewhat tedious depending on your car, but you could run 2 wires (could be 1 cable with 2 wires in it like speaker wire) from the trunk to your dash. Tap the reverse light and send it down one wire. Wire the switch up to that wire and also something that stays on while the car is running (you could tap pretty much anything in the fuse box). Then use the other wire going back to the trunk to trigger the relay. This will yield automatic trigger of the reverse camera when in reverse (in one position) and always on (in the other position).
    Strata, I re-read your suggestion just now, and I think you're on the money. With this solution, I wouldn't even need a diode

    If I read this correctly, what we are doing with this is making the switch decide whether the brake-light, or the constant 12V, will trigger the relay.

    I like this better than wiring both hot lines directly to the relay. I will follow that path, thanks. I might draw a diagram and post here to triple check with others shortly.
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  8. #48
    Variable Bitrate StrataG's Avatar
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    Wow this sucks, I spent like 10 minutes writing a reply after you pm'd me and somehow it never posted. I didn't have time to draw a diagram and don't really right now, but it shouldn't be difficult to conceptualize.

    SPDT Switch
    -----Inputs
    Reverse light -> switch (one side)
    Fuse tap -> switch (other side)
    -----Output
    Center of switch -> relay trigger

    Relay
    ----- Inputs
    Feed from switch -> Relay trigger
    12V positive from PSU -> Relay power input
    Matching ground from PSU -> Relay ground
    ----- Output
    12V Relay output -> Camera power input

  9. #49
    Raw Wave justintime's Avatar
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    Strata dont worry about it. I have bigger problems thi minute. While testing the voltage of the rear light, I shorted them out, and now by car is acting up. I cannot see any blown fuses. OMFG I am going to kill myslef if I caused any damage LOL
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  10. #50
    Variable Bitrate StrataG's Avatar
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    How is it acting up? Also, keep in mind you want to be using your reverse light, not your tail light (assuming what you meant my rear). Are all the lights out or just the individual one you were testing? If it's all of them, you likely just blew the fuse. Look up in your manual which one is for those lights. I've often overlooked blown fuses getting annoyed looking through all of them. Easier to just pinpoint the one.

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