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Thread: Drop Down Stereo using actuator

  1. #1
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    Drop Down Stereo using actuator

    Not sure where to post this but, here it goes..

    I have a 1948 chevy truck (12v) I am looking to hide a stereo head unit underneath the dash. I want to install an actuator to lower the unit when in use and raise it when not in use. I figured a hinge mounted the back of a universal din stereo housing and an actuator attached from overhead to handle the up & down, and a rocker switch to reverse the direction. What am I missing?

    Questions: Once the stroke reaches the end does the actuator continue to draw amps? My concern is drawing on my battery when the truck is not running.

    As long as the mounting point is correct I wouldn't need a actuator with adjustable limits or would I?

    Is there an easier way to accomlish this?

    You guys are the experts let me know, Thanks is advance

  2. #2
    FLAC
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    Most actuators have built in limit switches so it will turn off once it reaches the end of it's length. They are a bit pricy at round $100, though.

    The easier way would be to mount it in the glove box and use a wireless remote.

    You can also take the faceplate off and hard wire it to the main radio. Stash the radio under the seat or in the glove box and have only the face plate in which to mount close. Then you could use a simple hinge and move it with your hand.

    Do you want a fancy motorized unit or does it matter? Do you have a budget?

    BTW, I had a 53 chevy PU 5 window with a 327 SB. I like those trucks.

  3. #3
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    Budget is not an issue.

    My truck had an old kraco radio where the original went, so I deleted that. My thought is to buy an original radio to keep it authentic. But the original will only be for looks.

    I could place the head unit in the glove box, but as you know there is alot of room under the dash, I thought I could trick it out a little bit with drop down.

    BTW I love the advanced series trucks, mine is monte carlo front and rear end LOW! 350 small block with double hump heads, pushing about 300 hp

  4. #4
    FLAC
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    My 327 had the double hump heads, too.
    I think it was from a 67 chevelle. It was a pretty hot little motor. My uncle had the truck before and he had a buick 455 in it, but it was just too dangerous to drive. He almost totaled it. Had to put a new front end on it.

    Anyway, I think the linear actuator is the simplest way to do it. All you need is a rocker switch to reverse the polarity. Position the actuator so that it maxs out at the place you want it to stop at in both directions. That way you won't have to worry about it over extending. It will just shut off at the limits.

    Here's some places that sell them. You probably need the shortest you can get.
    http://www.firgelliauto.com/
    http://www.slickcar.com/productdetai...ProductID=2992

    And some general info:
    http://www.okgamer.com/linear-actuator.htm

  5. #5
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    dangerous topic... guys talking about their motors and stereos.

    This truck barks in second and third! It'll throw your head back!

    I think I can pick up an actuator off ebay, I was looking at one 55mm thrust, could buy it for less than $50.00. It was fairly short I think 8.5" fully extended. I thought if I miss calculate the thrust I could cable the rest of it.

    What type of head unit should I get? Thought about a dvd player/lcd screen combo but I think that is overkill.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  6. #6
    FLAC
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    How would you miscalculate the thrust? If you hinge the radio at the rear and put the actuator above pushing up and down it should be pretty straight forward. If anything you could have it pull the radio up a bit higher than need be just so long as the lowered position looks just right. If you have too much stroke length you can attach the actuator at an angle.

    If you get one off e-bay it may or may not have he internal limit switches. Make sure and ask them about that. Most of the newwer ones have them.

  7. #7
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    sounds good,

    What about mounting the universal housing directly to the actuator and the hinge directly to the firewall? You know how rough ride those trucks are, I am concerned about vibration.

  8. #8
    FLAC
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    You'll probably need to wait until you get all the parts and then mock it all into position and see what works and looks nice.

  9. #9
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    have you thought about using a stepper motor and gears? I'm looking into fabricating a flip up lcd similar to the ones in the Mazda 3's. Any ideas?

  10. #10
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by tosman SER
    have you thought about using a stepper motor and gears? I'm looking into fabricating a flip up lcd similar to the ones in the Mazda 3's. Any ideas?
    Why add complexity? It's best to keep things simple.

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