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Thread: Night Vision in Car

  1. #171
    My Village Called 0l33l's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shotgunefx
    Thanks. Good find. I was doing that the other day (hence telling you to look on ebay), but I was looking at board camera lenses and all the ones I found were F-2

    Given the price and shallowness of the lens, me thinks I'm going to just stick with the CS-Mount. Be easier that way anyway.
    The ones I linked you too were CS-Mount

  2. #172
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0l33l
    The ones I linked you too were CS-Mount
    That's what I'm saying.

    I was going to get a small board camera lens (like in the little reverse cams like these) but seeing the specs/depth/price of that lens, I'll stick with CS-Mount

  3. #173
    My Village Called 0l33l's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shotgunefx
    That's what I'm saying.

    I was going to get a small board camera lens (like in the little reverse cams like these) but seeing the specs/depth/price of that lens, I'll stick with CS-Mount
    Ah... ok. Sorry for not understanding

  4. #174
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by quantum
    I wanted to test how the camera would perform if the signal needed to travel more than the 1" red/yellow/black wires that connect it to the main board. It worked perfectly, and means the CCD board can be relocated with the lens pretty much anywhere in the car.

    I ran some 18 gauge service wire (3 copper twisted) and basically spliced 15 feet of wire between the boards. I put the mount I made for behind the grille (yes my $1.00 paperclip holder) in another room of the house and took a few stills running it through the PC. Pics below. Top pic is zero lights, totally dark. Middle is with an over head light on (not the lamp, it is off) and the last pic was with the IRs only from one of the other NiteMax cameras next to my grille enclosure.

    The front of the camera lens is 15.5 feet away from the lamp.

    So for those of you that want to relocate the CCD board and have the display shown on a separate LCD, especially if you are putting the lens up near the rearview mirror where space and safety is a concern, here are my suggestions:

    Rather than gut the NiteMax down and try to hard wire it to the DC, the simplest solution is to take apart the camera body and remove the CCD board (4 screws). Cut the red/yellow/black wires in half and splice in enough wire for your mounting location. Get a CS threaded mount that attaches to the board (Mark has them, and they are a ***** to remove from the Nitemax body). Run your RCA cable from the video out to your monitor, and power it with a 12v regulated PS (or if your feeling lucky, 12V from the cig lighter) to the DC IN using a "C" power plug from Radio Shack (4.7mm OD 1.7mm ID). OR, you could, get one of the 12v fake batteries from Mark and hardwire +/- through the 2 leads in there.

    I disconnected the IR board, since they me do no good under the seat, and would recommend disconnecting the LCD (cut the pink/white wires right at the source on the main board, and/or disconnect the ribbon cable) while you have it apart, it throws off alot of heat.

    By doing this, you can mount the camera lens in one location and keep the rest of the Nitemax in tact. If you ever wanted to go back to using the camera like it was intended, restoring it is simple.
    You and your $1.00 paper clip holder....model/specs. I'm going to get me a few! What lens are you using again?
    Carputer Progress: Here we go again...

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  5. #175
    Variable Bitrate quantum's Avatar
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    LOL

    I love looking "outside the industry" for solutions, but I will admit to the paperclip holder being a bit over the top. I was going to build a plexi enclosure, but now I don't hafta.

    I have no clue where dollar stores get their stuff, probably some discount wholesale lot place overseas. However I did do some surfing at Staples and they them have sized to fit all types of lenses

    The lens I am using is one of the 16x from Mark, $10.00. Been looking through e-bay for other types.

  6. #176
    FLAC
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    oh great...now i have to do staples shopping and go around ripping off paper clip holders and testing lens. Yeah, i'm going to be a security camera magnetic...
    Carputer Progress: Here we go again...

    THE GF THEME
    Genesis has speed
    Genesis has class
    Genesis sent money
    before your a__;)

    Join the fight against carputters. EMAIL ME!

  7. #177
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    i have absolutely no clue when it comes to lenses and all this stuff about relative aperture......what is the difference between say f2.0 and f1.2 for the nitemax cam ?
    Transflective Lilliput 8", LV-677DC Core Duo 1,83Ghz, , Mpegbox uSDC20D, Shuttle Express, HQCT, PG XS6600 http://carpc.boyakasha.dk

  8. #178
    Constant Bitrate NiteMax Mark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _dopehead_
    i have absolutely no clue when it comes to lenses and all this stuff about relative aperture......what is the difference between say f2.0 and f1.2 for the nitemax cam ?
    f/2.0 = small little lens element, inexpensive, minimal light collecting ability, marginal for low-light conditions, reduced night-time sensativity.

    f/1.2 = larger lens element, marginally expensive, acceptional light collecting ability, best for low-light conditions, optimal night-time sensativity.

    The smaller the f-number, the better the night-time sensativity will be. I've tried the two f-numbers side by side and there IS a noticable difference.

    f/1.6 is the highest number I'd recommend for the NiteMax.

  9. #179
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    alright, guess ill find something else to do with the 16 f2.0 lenses i have :-(
    Transflective Lilliput 8", LV-677DC Core Duo 1,83Ghz, , Mpegbox uSDC20D, Shuttle Express, HQCT, PG XS6600 http://carpc.boyakasha.dk

  10. #180
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    just received my units this morning, they are so small and cute :-) gonna put some pics up very soon of my tests in the car with f2.0 lenses.
    Transflective Lilliput 8", LV-677DC Core Duo 1,83Ghz, , Mpegbox uSDC20D, Shuttle Express, HQCT, PG XS6600 http://carpc.boyakasha.dk

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