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Thread: Problem with alarm - remote start (fuel pump off?)

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate urosbe's Avatar
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    Yes I have manual transmission and my car starts without pressing the clutch also.
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  2. #12
    FLAC Jahntassa's Avatar
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    As turbocad says, often there can be two ignition wires in a car. That may or may not be the problem though. A good test for this would be to put your key in the ignition and turn it to 'ON', then trigger the remote start. If it works, then there's something wired wrong, if it STILL doesn't work..well..damned if I know.

    That's at least a good test though, see if it does that. Turn the key to 'ON' without starting it, then try the remote start.

  3. #13
    Constant Bitrate urosbe's Avatar
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    I can't, because in this case the will not go in reservation mode. The only case it goes to reservation mode is, that you have your engine on, shift to neutral, push the hand brake, turn the key to off, the engine will still running... you open do door, leave the car, close the doors, the engine will power off, then you lock the car and this are the only steps you can you remote start... some kind of protection for manual transmission cars
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  4. #14
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    For my Honda I needed an immobilizer too. Same problem. It is a newer Honda and the key only had to be within 5 or so feet of the key. And I didn't need a spare key in the dash! Just use the 555h or 555i (mine used the i) and when it gets the remote signal it simulates the key in the "on" position, getting the pump and everything running, then it send serial key transmissions down the key data line simulation the key being near, and then starts. manual clutch bypass too.

    Before I knew my Honda had this "protection", it would sound like it was on with no engine running for a second or two, and then off, and then on for a couple secs and then off. Sort of sounds like what you are having.

    I would also check for a secong ignition wire. I had 2 ignition wires, and an accessory wire that needed to have +12v for the car to start. So it is entirely possible that you are missing 1 or 2 wires being connected. And use relays!

    And that manual protection thing sucks! Just get an auto kit and bypass the clutch. Done and done. You have to park it in Nuetral anyways for that way to work, so why not. Just don't use the button if you didn't park it. And then you can always get a tilt switch for the bottom that will send a "neutral" signal instead of "park" signal and trip the remote start. Seeing as how your kit is for a maunal depending on the complexity of the unit, you may already have one.

    And plus, you can "remote start" your car while still driving, then take park, take out your key, get out and lock your doors while still running for 5/10/20 minutes on those days below -10!

    I wouldn't want it any other way. Had it installed for a year now, use it to start my car almost everytime I get in to get the PC booted or car warmed/AC'ed and never once has it been in gear and run over little children. And keep in mind, I go from home to school 2 to 3 times a day 5 times a week, and then I deliver chinese food for 5 hours 5 days a week starting and stopping the car to almost off about 10 to 15 times an hour.
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  5. #15
    Constant Bitrate urosbe's Avatar
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    What is 555h or 555i?

    About manual protection, I am not sure if there is anything I can do about it, because that's how alarm works - I think it is not possible to change that.
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  6. #16
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    They are immobilizer bypassers. They fool the car into thinking that someone put the key in the car and is turning it normally. Not "hotwiring" it like what remote starts essentially are.

    You can get cheap ones that you stick a key in and be done with it, or you can get programmable ones that you just wire it in series with the data line, then start your car manually. The light should flash saying that it learned the unique ID code of your key so now it can simulate that everytime, hopefully telling your fuel pump to kick on.

    the 555i is what I used because I have an 01 civic ex. the 01 civic dx, lx ect.. all use the 555h. The Del Sol's are spread around too.

    The 555d is for 1997 to 2002 preludes: http://www.caraudio-caralarms.com/555D.html

    There are also univeral ones like these: http://www.caraudio-caralarms.com/555U.html and http://www.caraudio-caralarms.com/556U.html

    Just a matter of figuring the correct one.
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  7. #17
    FLAC Jahntassa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by urosbe View Post
    What is 555h or 555i?

    About manual protection, I am not sure if there is anything I can do about it, because that's how alarm works - I think it is not possible to change that.
    Yeah, if you have one designed for a manual transmission, there's no way to bypass that 'protection' setup.

    I do believe, as said, there's a wire not hooked up. Some cars do have two ACC wires and two IGN wires. Unfortunately I have no idea what the wiring setup is for your car.

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