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Thread: pci riser card

  1. #1
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    pci riser card

    ok so, im getting this mobo (Intel® 915GV FC-PGA 478 ASUS System I/O Chip) it uses a Celeron M cpu


    and i wanna use this riser card:

    http://www.logicsupply.com/product_i...roducts_id/561

    will it work? im putting a fm tuner card, and potentially a sound card in, i also want them to be over top of the mobo to keep things compact.

    eek, just noticed, will i be able to use my laptop drive with this? im not seeing ide plug in things.




    also, is their such a thing as a watt monitoring thing? so i can make sure i never use more than 120W before i plug it into my M2-ATX?

  2. #2
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brendan View Post
    ok so, im getting this mobo (Intel® 915GV FC-PGA 478 ASUS System I/O Chip) it uses a Celeron M cpu and i wanna use this riser card... <snip> will it work? im putting a fm tuner card, and potentially a sound card in, i also want them to be over top of the mobo to keep things compact.
    Why not. It just takes PCI to PCI. The only thing is that it will halve the bandwith available for the devices. Sounds card and tuner should be fine. As a word of advice though, FM tuners are crap in a car. They are meant to be stationary. If you want radio in the car, go with the HQCT from the store. It is the best radio tuner for cars that will interface with a PC. Well, terrestrial radio anyway...

    Quote Originally Posted by brendan View Post
    eek, just noticed, will i be able to use my laptop drive with this? im not seeing ide plug in things.
    Not directly. You wouldn't be able to anyways. That board is SATA only. You have a few options to get the HD plugged in as a master drive. You can get a laptop IDE, to Standard IDE to SATA, or you can go Laptop IDE to USB, or Laptop to full IDE to USB. There might be a laptop IDE to full SATA but I doubt it. Some laptop drives have a special SATA standard (shrunken of course), and you might be able to find something to go from laptop SATA to full SATA, but that is a big maybe. I suggest either laptop to full ide to sata because it will be the cheapest and it won't devour your precious USB bandwith. You will need all the ports you can get, and daisy chaining is not good. If you want a fast boot, stay away from a usb bootable drive. Also it will need a lot of that bandwith to keep Windows happy, so you will limit your devices that you can plug in without it studdering.


    Quote Originally Posted by brendan View Post
    also, is their such a thing as a watt monitoring thing? so i can make sure i never use more than 120W before i plug it into my M2-ATX?
    They make things that you plug into the wall and then you plug whatever into the device. US and European models. The one in the pic is from ThinkGeek. I'm sure you can find a cheaper one, but this is the one that I knew where to get a pic from!

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  3. #3
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    Actually for a power monitor, on the bottom of the WattsUp PRO there was a link for this one. Instead of $120, it is $30. ThinkGeek is a good place if you have never heard of it. Ordered bunch of geeky things, all arrived fast.

    This one is called the "Kill-A-Watt". They're so punny! http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/7657/



    And the link for the PRO: http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/7acf/zoom/
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  4. #4
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    The only thing about those Kill-a-watt type devices is that it only measures total power draw. You really need to check draw on each rail of the power supply to get a good idea of which dc-dc power supply would work best.

  5. #5
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    Well true, but usually you do that first before even using that. You look at the HD and it says xx amps on the 12v rail so therefore you get your power. Then to make sure if your calculations so go for it, you plug it into the Killawatt thing and see how much total you are drawing. Should be close if not less because usually maximum is shown on the device.
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