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Thread: Relocating faceplates

  1. #1
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    Relocating faceplates

    Ive seen this done many times in magazines and I know the procedure is relatively straight forward when everything is soldered. But I want to mount the face plate on the dash and be able to remove it when I'm in a rougher neighborhood. The rest of the head unit will be mounted in a small protective box and mounted under a seat (I'm aware of the risks). The head unit is a Pioneer. I am willing to take the HU apart to do some soldering but I would like to be able to leave the original contacts untouched. Does anyone have any ideas? TIA
    1997 Grand Prix GTP - Pioneer Premier HU - Alpine 4ch for mids/highs - McIntosh separates in the rear (soon to be in front as well) - Custom Passive Xovers - Pioneer Class A 300wrms amp - 2.5 farad cap - The original RF "The Punch" Pro Series 12"

  2. #2
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    Someone? anyone? I know something like this has been done before. I'm looking for some ideas, not a complete solution
    1997 Grand Prix GTP - Pioneer Premier HU - Alpine 4ch for mids/highs - McIntosh separates in the rear (soon to be in front as well) - Custom Passive Xovers - Pioneer Class A 300wrms amp - 2.5 farad cap - The original RF "The Punch" Pro Series 12"

  3. #3
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    You cant leave the contacts untouched and solder wires to them.

    It is either or. Unless you want to solder on the reverse side of the plate with the itty bitty 6mil traces which is 0.15 mm. You better have a steady hand, and a good iron.

    From what I understand you want to do though is make a dock for the faceplate just like a regular HU has, but the actual brains will be under your seat. In that case pop off the trim from your HU where the faceplat docks, and extend the wires from behind there. Then mount that plastic piece somewhere in your dash.
    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
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  4. #4
    Low Bitrate Super_dave's Avatar
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    Go ahead and solder the contacts , headunits are fairly cheap , your not going to go backward , in about 2 years or maybe less time your going to want another headunit , I would solder the contacts and not look back . I'm on my 2nd headunit

  5. #5
    Variable Bitrate 84RegalRider's Avatar
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    i could only get like a meter out of mine and needed 2. so after doing it 14 times finally killed the lcd display so right now its just acting as an amp.

    so be careful and u are risking the chance of losing ur hu.

    and i loved my alpine deck. it was like 6 years old and still ruled.
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  6. #6
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    yes you need to be careful. You might be able to find a heat rating somewhere on the web for those contacts, but to be safe, tin your wire, and then short jab to solder it on. If you are taking like 10 seconds to put that wire on, and it still isnt connected, stop and wait until it is cool again, and try again. When you solder that contact, the entire trace behind it will start to heat up. Then the chips too. So be fast.
    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
    1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
    30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
    15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
    Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

  7. #7
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    I can solder surface mount components with a new tip on even a cheap soldering iron. I have the first Pioneer Premier unit that plays mp3's. I bought it as a refurbished unit about 5 years ago and I love it! Ive never had a single problem with it and people are still amazed by the graphics. The only reason I want to keep it is for sound processing and the radio.

    I like the idea of using the trim where the faceplate normally sits. Two concerns with that are protection for the head unit and mounting the faceplate to the trim. I'm guessing the metal tabs that normally hold it in are attached to the chassis of the head unit.


    The HU second to the top is identical to mine.

    If you zoom in on that pic, it looks like the connector is a separate peice from the rest of the front plastic. What do you guys think of mounting that connector to a small board, fastening the face plate with (3M Dual Lock, and using the original trim ring around the faceplate. The trim ring would not only make it look nice but make it so that the contacts line up everytime. Let me know what you all think. I dont have my HU in front of me so I'm not sure if it is feasable
    1997 Grand Prix GTP - Pioneer Premier HU - Alpine 4ch for mids/highs - McIntosh separates in the rear (soon to be in front as well) - Custom Passive Xovers - Pioneer Class A 300wrms amp - 2.5 farad cap - The original RF "The Punch" Pro Series 12"

  8. #8
    It's not really that small...No, seriously. judoGTI's Avatar
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    You can do this, but you have to buy spare parts from Pioneer. Face plate connection spare parts go for about 30-45 bucks.


    That way you could leave your face plate relocateable....


    But your best bet is to just relocate it to a less visible area... and if they want to steal it, its not like it will work for them....
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  9. #9
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    For those of you who have done this before, how long where you able to make the cable?
    1997 Grand Prix GTP - Pioneer Premier HU - Alpine 4ch for mids/highs - McIntosh separates in the rear (soon to be in front as well) - Custom Passive Xovers - Pioneer Class A 300wrms amp - 2.5 farad cap - The original RF "The Punch" Pro Series 12"

  10. #10
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    After I actually got my Grand Prix and took a good look at the interior I decided that I would mount the head unit in place of the ash tray. Ive never seen any car with so many storage places in the dash

    Thanks for your help guys!
    1997 Grand Prix GTP - Pioneer Premier HU - Alpine 4ch for mids/highs - McIntosh separates in the rear (soon to be in front as well) - Custom Passive Xovers - Pioneer Class A 300wrms amp - 2.5 farad cap - The original RF "The Punch" Pro Series 12"

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