well. its in the car-mostly-and working. i'm just finishing up the wiring before i get back to more building. problem is i keep thinking up new ideas as i go along -- need more time!!!
have a look. i just finished installing the door solenoids
that looks like an awesome install. cant wait to see it completely finished.
Hey Albysure I'm not going to tell you what many others have told you. I'm sure you know what I mean. Compliments are good but will not help you improve your work. It only encourages you to do more wrong if no one takes the time to correct you. I have a few questions and suggestions if you don't mind. Are you a professional installer? Your project that you got going right now is a job that very few installers are capable of doing. How long have you been at your install? How long do you think you'll have it ready? I notice a few things about your install that you might be interested in.
I notice that you have dynamatted the whole interior, which is good. It looks like you applied large square sheets of dynamat at a time. Did you use the whole piece of dynamat at a time? In my experience, dynamats should be applied in small strips on curvy bumpy surface and medium sized on totally flat surface. If you dynamat with large piece, you'll have air bubbles which defeats the purpose of dynamatting. Small strips will contour better and easier to work with and it wont wrinkle and don't have air pockets.
Your idea for the box looks great. But do you know how long its going to take for you to glass half inch thick of fiberglass for top of the box? Lets just say a very long time. If your glass has air bubbles in it or not thick enough, those W3s are going to crack the glass the first bass note they produce. An easier way is to completely build the box with the angles you want your subs to face is out of at least 3/4" MDF. Make sure you completely seal the box. Then you fiberglass the top of the box with the contour that you originally planned for. It would take you half the time to glass 1/4" just strong enough that it doesn't flex when you push on the glass. When the bass hits, the pressure is on the MDF not the fiberglass. This will save you time on building the first box and rebuilding and fixing cracks if you using only fiberglass for the top.
I heard that the parallel relay control board that you're using activates all the relays when the computer first turns on. That translates to both doors, hood, gas cap, trunk all open at the same time. That would be cool. Kinda like a self destruct function. I use a serial relay control board. Its way smaller than the parallel board. The only bad thing about my board is it doesn't come with software
Is the remote relay board RF or IR? It would be pointless if its IR. That remote looks kind of big. Did you know that top of the line DEI alarm like the Sidewinder 7000 has 7 AUX outputs. The best part is it has an incredible range. My brother's Sidewinder 6500 works up to about a quarter mile away in a line of site. Since you're gonna have an alarm, why not use the same remote to activate everything that the remote relay board activates? One more thing on the alarm. Since you have your car all torn apart, there's gotta be a place to put that alarm besides under the dash. That's the first place anyone would look to find an alarm. On 88-94 GM full size trucks, I always put the alarm behind the glove box.
Caps should be as close to the amp as possible. If the caps are close to the battery then it defeats the purpose of having caps. When the bass hits, amp needs power. If the cap is close by, it gets the power from the cap therefore reduce voltage drops. If the cap is the same distance as the battery, the power from the battery and the cap will reach the amp at the same time. You might as well ditch the cap and save you some headache and money.
Since you're building a center console, why not put the DVD ROM below or near the monitor. That way, you can have access to the DVD player like a normal head unit instead of reaching behind you to change a disc. With how creative you are, Im sure you can extend all the necessary cables and wires for the DVD to be mounted in the dash somewhere .... cough USB2.0 cough firewire .....
Fresh air from the outside is good. Fresh air from underneath the car, not so good. I really hope you gonna custom mold a carbon monoxide detector in your dash somewhere?
One more thing. Does your door have grounding strap that connects the door to the chassis? I don't think your car does. There's a good reason why auto manufacturers run ground wires for power windows and door locks to the kick panel. Remember, The door is only grounded by the hinges. Run that extra wire for the solenoid to the kickpanel. It'll give it that extra oomph
Im in no way of flaming you or your work. I just think that if you gonna go through all that effort putting a bad *** system in your car, don't make the same mistakes that others have already made and can't figure out what the problem was. It will save you a lot of time and less taste of soap in your mouth. Best of luck
that is awesome!!!!!!!!!!! love the paint work, did you spray it your self?
plans look smicko
I just picked my jaw up off the floor to punch out this post!..
that is really impressive, like all above, cant wait to see the final product. keep up the top level of work....