2008 Honda Civic EX Upcoming Build.

**Bxsteez** · 06-09-2009, 11:02 PM

I think i'm following what you are doing here. Not a bad idea. Can't wait to see the finished product.

**DJMikeT** · 06-09-2009, 11:03 PM

I'll keep posting pictures so you can follow along. Always eager to help.

**DJMikeT** · 06-10-2009, 01:20 AM

OK, a little update. I couldn't quit thinking about the tubes not being level, it was just bugging the hell out of me. Yes, I'm anal about detail! Not that it would have looked bad being slightly off and it won't be seen most of the time, but every time I pop the trunk I'd know I didn't go 100%. So I'm fabricating a shim or so that I can get the tubes perfectly straight.

Off level tubes!

Prep and molding shim:

Tomorrow I'll get some glass and filler and get it just right and post more pictures.

**DJMikeT** · 06-11-2009, 03:38 AM

OK, I've got my shims fabricated and now my posts are level which makes me happy

Leveling Shims:

Result:

Hopefully by tomorrow I can have a ruff install of the mounting board.

**DJMikeT** · 06-13-2009, 04:18 AM

OK, I've got new pictures on my project. Step by step!

First of all the back mounting bracket which is just an outdoor light switch cover needed to be reinforced, so I filled the hole with epoxy and put some a layer of glass and then filler.

Next I did my layout for the drop down tube supports.

Then secured the couplings with epoxy. I'm going to do the finishing work later and needed to mount them so I could get measurements for the board.

Then I mounted them in the trunk, along with the front ones

I was then able to support my board using a brick and some boards like in the earlier picture. I made my measurements and marks and drilled my recess holes.

Now I needed to get my bottom pieces fabricated so that I could attach and detach the whole board easily without removing all my other fabricated hardware.

I added a little epoxy for a base filler.

Then I filled the remainer with Duraglass, sanded smooth and found my center.

I drilled a small pilot hole and then used a 5/16 tap set to thread the fasterner.

Initially I thought just threading the filled fasterners would be strong enough but as it turned out I needed to add a nut on the opposite end of each for the added strength.

Now I can easily remove the whole board if need by unfastening 4 screws instead of removing
all the drop down hardware.

Here it is test mounted with some wires ran through. I still haven't full secured it yet, as I still have a couple things to do.

**DJMikeT** · 06-24-2009, 03:18 AM

I've come up with a better way to acheive the same goal as I started with this post on the amp racks, I'll post some pictures as I start fabricating it up.
I found the the PVC tubes I wanted to use just don't have enough I.D. to run all the stuff I want. Unfortantly I'm so swamped trying to sell my other house and financially drained from it that I'm having to put my project on the side for the time being. Trust me though, I'm hooked on this!!