Thread: Lilliput display issues...(Last Post)

you guys rock. Quite simply put...I blew a fuse. I also replaced the relay just to be safe and I now get power to my power supply. I'll recap everything I've done to this point later, but now I can't get the computer to turn on!!!

I now have a green lught on my mobo. Once I turn the car on that stays there and the pc does not start up. I have an opus 360. There is a green and white twisted cable that I connected to the mobo power button location. There are a ton of jumper locations on the opus that I just don't get so I left it how it came. You guys would be saints if u can give me a hand with this!!!

now that you have power it definitely seems like either the PSU jump is not correct, or the green/white cable (which is the right one i should reassure you) is just in the wrong place.

easiest way to find the right jumper for power up is get a standard #1 phillips head screwdriver and touch a set of 2 jumps each time until you get power on, this is the way i do it when i CBF'd getting the manual or reading the f**kin small writing on the board.

if it does power up then which it definitely should, all you have to do is place the PSU jumper there, if it doesn't work after that the PSU isn't sensing the button, in which case i would go back to trying to "jump start" the PSU. with the standard green to earth trick.



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pyro, bless you. I am quickly learning how much of a noob I am. lol.

I just want to clarify before I blow anything up. When you say touch a set of jumps, which set are we playing with? The Opus 360 has a few different rows(let me go pull up the user guide) I am looking to have the PSU/PC turn on when I turn the car on, and off when I turn the car off. However, my PSU only came with ONE jumper...it appears to me that I need multiple in order to configure everything. Right now I have the jumper on JU1 Column 5...which is just default.

Now what is that "standard" green to earth trick...hahaha. I'm so sorry

Time to cook some food, i'm STARVING

I owe you all a pizza if I can get this going by tomorrow!!

the jumpers on the motherboard, usually in the bottom right hand corner. they include reset and pwr buttons, HDD light and PWR light, use a screw driver on those.

you said that the light on the mother was on indication that the PSU was getting pwr and the motherboard knew that, so first try the motherboard jumps to make sure you have the right one connected to the pwr on from the PSU

if it turns out that it is in the right spot we move onto the PSU



as shown in this image, from the manual of the OPUS250/360watt PSU you need to put the motherboard power button jumper to the J7 on the PSU, also noting to observe the polarity


hope this works

Howdy,
I brought the PC back into the house and verified that the power button connector was in fact connected to J7(It's the only 2 terminal header on the psu). This is connected to the correct terminals on the mobo(verified with the manual). This is how I had it in the car originally when it didn't turn on...so I didn't bother putting it back in the car tonight.

Now it appears it has to be an issue with the Opus jumper configuration. JU1 is how I have the PSU configured(default position is 5). I believe JU2 is if I were using a power button to turn on the PC. What do you think I should do here? Also, once we figure out this issue, is there a way to add a "reset" button to the mobo/psu?



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Catching up with previous items...

You are using the relay as a means to disable the carputer independent of the ignition being on, correct? And the Opus has an ignition sense wire to know when to turn the PC on, correct?

If the answer to the above questions is yes then why not put the relay on the ignition wire not the main power wire? You'd be dealing with a lot less current and the relay would last longer. Just my 2 cents.

I am using the relay to control power given to my distribution block. The distribution block not only powers the PC, but the HD radio, and future underdash LEDs. I do agree that a relay connected to the computer would be beneficial, however, the placement now keeps the slew of accessories from draining my battery. I'm still in the learning phase here, so would it STILL be a smart move to put the relay on my add-a-circuit, versus the battery run?

Do you know how relays work?
It seems like you do, but I'll say it anyway since you're strapped for time.
You feed them power on on 86 and they close the circuit between pin 30 and 87.

Honestly, not 100%...however, that really makes sense if you break it down! My only question...can 85 and 86 be swapped? I have 85 and 86 in the reverse order that ya'll mentioned and I was able to get 12v through to the PC...just wondering if I should take a min and swap them.

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I also purchased some 9 pin Molex(Female/Male) to be used with a switch panel. The switch panel contains switches for valet/kill, amp, hd radio, and LEDs/neons. As of right now I have female disconnects used on each switch. Would it be smart to use these molex connectors? Or are they not made to handle the type of draw seen in this application



Well I'm going to jump back into this for SURE tomorrow night(Sunday EST 6pm). If ya'll can keep an eye on this post I would be grateful. I'll be sure to read any tips and suggestions posted throughout the day.

It is a far better (and simpler) solution to put a switch on the IGN line to act as a valet switch. That will keep the IGN line at 0v, so the PC will stay off. IF the PC is on and you turn off that switch, the PC will do a proper shutdown (or hibernate) and not risk your data or your hardware.
As far as cutting power to the HD Radio, if you power it from the Opus (it provides more than enough power), it will shut off with the PC.

I was reading the new replies this morning when it dawned on me. I updated my original paint diagram to reflect the PSU ign line. At my fuse block, I have two wires extending off. One goes to my valet switch which will kill the relay/distribution block. The other goes straight to my PSU. Will this essentially be the same method that you describe? The pc/psu IS connected to the distribution block, so if I were to press the kill switch, the distribution block and then the PC would lose power...I'm not sure if that is still similar to pulling the plug!?

3 - If you get everything working the way you want in #2, then it's time to install in the car. Since you have all the wiring run, then it's time to get out the multimeter out and confirm voltages on all the lines going to the Opus PSU.
POWER should get +12v all the time.
IGN should get +12v when the ignition is on and 0v when ignition is off.

In the midst of my frustration I did break out the multimeter and test all of my lines. With the ignition off, my battery run TO the relay reads the normal 12v. Pin 30 and forward reads 114mV...definitely some leakage(how would that be fixed?)

Once I turn the car on(AND turn on the valet switch) pin 30 now receives 12v. The add-a-circuit(which goes to valet & psu) reads 12v. Pin 1 & 2 of my PSU power adapter(1 black, 1 yellow) reads 12v. If I were to plug in the PC at this point, I do get a green motherboard light indicating power is received.

1 - Connect a desktop ATX PSU to the motherboard to make certain it will boot the PC and all the accessories you have attached (assuming you brought all the accessories in from the car, as well as the PC). Don't have an ATX PSU lying around? Run to Best Buy or somewhere and buy one for this purpose, then return it later if funds are tight.

I did purchase an ATX psu a while back and that is how I configured the PC in the house with all of the accessories that I would need.

2 - Jury rig the desktop ATX PSU to provide 12v (instructions in this FAQ) and use that to power the Opus. If it all functions when getting 12v from the desktop PSU, then you can test configurations of te PSU to achieve the results you desire.
It will be a lot easier to configure it on your workbench (or dining room table!) than in the car!

In hind sight, I should have went with this method from the beginning. I definitely did some research on how I wanted to power everything, and in "theory" it all sounded fine. The only issue I knew would come up, is the Opus jumper configuration. I figured once I had constant 12v to the car, I could play around with those till she boots. I was also hoping a brand new psu wouldn't be dead

Anywhoo, I will give that FAQ a look and see if I can power up the unit in the house real quick. Darque, I am sorry I disappointed you! However, I do truly appreciate the replies. Hopefully I will have a working carPC by tomorrow(I will do my best to work in the rain tonight)

After I figure out my issue, you must teach me how to use paint!! She's a beauty lol.

From the diagram it looks as if I should power the computer seperately from the distribution block.
I would then run a power line to my 3(Y) wires, and then earth my 3(B) wires.
The kill switch would receive a line from the add-a-circuit and then from the kill switch to the PSU/Relay

I really hate to trash a $50 item, especially one that keeps my wiring neat(VERY IMPORTANT). I need to find a way to keep the distribution block for my accessories AND the PC. However, I would use the relay for the accessory portion, and then the IGN line for the PSU portion. This would be PERFECT!

Question: Does your motherboard require the 4-pin P4 power connector? If so, is that connected to the motherboard?
It's something that is commonly overlooked, and will cause a motherboard to not boot, but still indicate the motherboard is receiving power.

That would be just as bad as a blown fuse . I do have the P4 connector hooked up to the PSU and the motherboard

Honestly, I'd hope a brand-new PSU wouldn't be dead, either. However, you can't assume. It could have a defective part on the circuit board that causes the whole unit to be non-functional. You never know.

I went to Best Buy to try and find a 3 pin HDD pass thru adapter before work, but of course I could not find anything. I could possibly wait until tomorrow and try a small PC shop, or I can just play with the jumper configurations tonight with the PC in the car. I was also trying to find a USB B to B extension for my DVD drive...but no luck.

If I were to run a power button to my motherboard header, this would result in the PSU header being removed. If the motherboard turns on in this configuration, then most likely the PSU would be fine...correct?

Boy, my grammar is horrible! ;-)