Thanks. Line tool, text tool and rectangle tool FTW!Originally Posted by Archy88
Not necessarily. My system is powered off a distribution block. I just don't have the relay setup that you propose.From the diagram it looks as if I should power the computer seperately from the distribution block.
I would then run a power line to my 3(Y) wires, and then earth my 3(B) wires.
The kill switch would receive a line from the add-a-circuit and then from the kill switch to the PSU/Relay
Might I suggest individual relays for the accessories on the other side of the distro block?I really hate to trash a $50 item, especially one that keeps my wiring neat(VERY IMPORTANT). I need to find a way to keep the distribution block for my accessories AND the PC. However, I would use the relay for the accessory portion, and then the IGN line for the PSU portion. This would be PERFECT!
You don't need the 3-pin pass-thru connector. It just makes the job easier.I went to Best Buy to try and find a 3 pin HDD pass thru adapter before work, but of course I could not find anything. I could possibly wait until tomorrow and try a small PC shop, or I can just play with the jumper configurations tonight with the PC in the car. I was also trying to find a USB B to B extension for my DVD drive...but no luck.
Try looking at case fans. That's where I got the one(s) I used.
Correct.If I were to run a power button to my motherboard header, this would result in the PSU header being removed. If the motherboard turns on in this configuration, then most likely the PSU would be fine...correct?
However, to test the Opus with the power button connected to the motherboard, you'd have to set the Opus to be in "dumb" mode, i.e. it doesn't react to the IGN line.
So, I changed the fuse location for the add a circuit and she turns on!
Now I want to test the screen. I have a barrel connector connected to the orange regulated 12v line from the opus psu. With my red test lead in the center of the wall adapter she reads 12 v. Doing the same from my created barrel adapter shows 12v. Now it only reads 40-300mV. I can't seem to figure out why. Can i run the screen straight from the distribution block? Please help!
Great to hear!
Check the specs of the screen, specifically input voltage.
If input voltage is a range, then it accepts unregulated power and would be fine running directly from the vehicle's electrics.
If input voltage is 12v, then it requires regulated power. That said, there are are those who have run a screen needing regulated power straight from the vehicle's electricals. I would expect this would shorten the lifespan of the screen.
Another option is to draw 12v regulated from the Opus. Those HDD power connectors provide a nice clean regulated 12v, and many members power their screens from a HDD connector.
As a bonus, the screen will power off with the PC if you go this route.
Quite possibly. This is not my area of expertise.
Think on this: If you cut the power, how will Windoze be able to react to the power loss? Remember that the computer will have no power!
This is why you don't want the ignition to simply cut off power to the Opus. The Opus loses power, the PC shuts off abruptly.
You want the ignition to cut power to the IGN line running to the Opus and hte Opus will "press the power button" on the PC and Windows will do its shutdown routine based on settings in Power Management.
Highly, highly doubt it. Did you try to just adjust the brightness on the display?
My Nearly Complete Car:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html
Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html
Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
http://paulfurtado.com/
I adjusted the screen brightness and it is still pretty dark. I am also removing the relay completely from my setup
Also try adjusting the colors. They affect brightness too.
What screen do you have?
What graphics card do you have? It may have more settings for color too.
My Nearly Complete Car:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html
Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html
Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
http://paulfurtado.com/
I really appreciate the help gang...I am getting real frustrated with this setup.
I have a lilliput 629-GL with on-board graphics.What screen do you have?
I removed the relay from my setup completely. I have the computer and all accessories powered from my distribution block. I have an ign line from the fuse block to a kill switch. From the kill switch to the PSU.
I have my amps, and HD radio signaled by the remote OUTS from the PSU
I have my Lilliput powered by 12V from a spare molex on the PSU. I used the yellow for power, and black for ground which is connected to a barrel connector. I did the same from the 12v output of the psu(orange for power, chassis for ground). Both times there was a small spark when I plugged the screen in. Both times the screen would fail to turn on(she works fine with the wall adapter still). Before the screen was plugged in, the source would read 12v, afterwords it was at 50-300 mV. It seems as if something is blown each time I try to run this damn screen. I did break out the multimeter ten times before ever plugging in the screen. The middle of the barrel connector on my wall adapter and homemade connector reads 12v. The outer ring reads as ground. I'm 99.9% sure that the polarity is correct...but for some reason the screen can't be powered by these 12v outputs.
I was able to power the screen briefly with the power connected directly to my distribution block. I did have a darkened image, therefore I moved the connection to the PSU molex. This was done in hopes of receiving regulated 12v(I am not sure what the distribution block would be considered)
In either case, I am completely baffled. I will try just about anything at this point...I am soooo close to having a working setup, but SO far. I do appreciate the help I have received thus far, ya'll have been awesome!
*rant complete*
Lilliput has power and signal...all is fine. I ended up putting a larger fuse and everything works properly...the original fuse never blew, but it worked so I will not complain.
Now to figure out why the screen is do damn dark!!(I did try to adjust it with the menu)
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