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Thread: Lilliput display issues...(Last Post)

  1. #1
    Variable Bitrate
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    Lilliput display issues...(Last Post)

    Howdy
    My plan was to finally install my carpc and a good 12 hours later I'm left with a gutted car and I'm just frustrated. I have everything hooked up exactly like I think it should be and the pc just does not power on.

    8awg power run to a relay
    8awg ground run to relay
    Relay connected to rocker switch & rocker switch connected to an add a circuit In my fuse block.(kill switch)
    Relay connected to 6 circuit distribution block's positive "pole"
    Distribution's "negative" pole connected to chassis
    Opus 360 uses three power/ground circuits(3 yellow/black wires)
    Opus 360 red remote wire connected to the add a circuit as well
    Opus 360 regulated 12v will power lilliput
    Opus 360 remote out 1 is connected to a rocker switch and then rocker switch to amps
    Opus 360 remote 2 is connected to a rocker switch and the rocker switch to my hd radio

    I have a 10 amp fuse in the add a circuit. 15 amp fuses in the distribution block for the pc and hd radio. An 80 amp fuse is just short of the battery on the 8awg run.

    I'll be honest in saying I'm not sure if I'm overloading any circuits or need to use bigger fuses. However when I turn on the car, I get no power to anything. The opus has no indicator light on and neither does the pc. My amps must not be getting a signal from the opus as they don't turn either.

    I am awfully confused so any assistance would be greatly appreciated!!!

    You can also email me at TazMan1688@yahoo.com with tips or suggestions as I get email straight to my phone.


    Thanks a million

  2. #2
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    Did you test the opus without using all the relays in a simpler install, i.e. direct to the battery? That will confirm or deny that your Opus actually works.
    Just because it's wired up the way you think it should be doesn't mean it is wired up the way it needs to be.

    If it does, then you need to bust out the multimeter and start testing voltages on the +12v line and the IGN line, the latter with ignition off and on.
    You could have a faulty relay or a faulty switch...
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate
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    I did not not test the Opus 360 before installing the unit in the car. Dumb, but I was hoping that a new product would not be faulty. lol.

    I think my goal tonight is to run a power wire directly to the distribution block and bypass the relay. If you look at the diagrams below, I may try and use a different method to setup the relay. If that doesn't work, I will try to find out how to hook up my ATX power supply to the Opus 360 and test it that way...





    This is the relay image that I found while surfing on mp3car.com


    Here is another image I found that actually uses my relay as well as my distribution block. As you can see, they connect their relay a different way than I have...

  4. #4
    Maximum Bitrate Injector's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Archy88 View Post

    Here is another image I found that actually uses my relay as well as my distribution block. As you can see, they connect their relay a different way than I have...
    are you doing this diagram to the letter? because if so you might have to turn on the headlights to engage the relay, because some license plate lights don't come on until the headlights are on.

  5. #5
    Variable Bitrate
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    I was only using that as a reference of how to connect a relay. I am using an add-a-circuit connected to my fuse block. I believe its connected to the fuse for my radio(which obviously doesn't exist anymore)

  6. #6
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    ok firstly Auto Relay

    30 PWR IN
    85 Earth
    86 Switch
    87 Load

    dirty connections are probably unlikely, get a multimeter, turn everything on, use the meter to make sure you have 12volt power coming into the PSU, if there is, check that your mobo power button/whatever set up you have, is working and plugged in right, try shorting the green signal pin of the PSU to jump start it, if the PSU gets up and moves its your compcase pwr switch, either not connected right/at all or the switch itself is dead

  7. #7
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    also as it seems there was alot you posted about relays, if when you turn the **** on, say from off to IGN you should hear the click of the relay switching, if its to far away get someone else to turn the key and you listen, if you hold it or just have a finger on the relay also you can feel it click over

  8. #8
    Variable Bitrate
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    pyro, thanks for the reply! I do appreciate it!
    I will try switching the terminals around when I get home tonight. I hope I didn't already damage the relay.

    The opus 360 has a green/white twisted header cable. I have that connected to the motherboard, hoping that will signal the PC to turn on

  9. #9
    Variable Bitrate
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    Alright, I just went to test my theory and I believe I am still stuck...
    Pyro, the relay setup you had mentioned matches the diagram that I initially used. Just to rule everything out, I switched my relay to the second diagram that I found with terminal 87 to battery, etc.

    I tested my multimeter on my battery...it reads 14.18v on startup
    My 8awg run reads 14.18 all the way to and AT the relay(Terminal 87)
    Terminal 30, as well as the 3 power circuits on my distribution block read 114mV (WTH?)
    It reads 114mV with the car on, and with the car off...this is cerrrtainly not 12v!

    Am I to assume the relay is trash, or my add a circuit is trash?

    I have the car ripped apart right now, so any quick tips or suggestions are REALLY appreciated. I will have my phone next to me to follow these instructions! Thanks!!!!!!

  10. #10
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    mezz64's Avatar
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    You are using the relay as a means to disable the carputer independent of the ignition being on, correct? And the Opus has an ignition sense wire to know when to turn the PC on, correct?

    If the answer to the above questions is yes then why not put the relay on the ignition wire not the main power wire? You'd be dealing with a lot less current and the relay would last longer. Just my 2 cents.

    As for the relay wiring in general I always do +12v battery to 87, Load on 30, 86 for trigger (switch to +12 will work), and 85 to ground. 87 and 30 can be interchangeable too, it's just the two sides of the switch.

    Also, after rereading you're last post make sure 86 is getting +12v in order to get voltage on 30. If you want voltage to always pass and only be off when you flip the switch use 87a instead of 87 for +12v battery.

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