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Thread: carpc almost blew up my truck!!!!

  1. #11
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZX1Cruizer View Post
    HAHAHAHAHAHAHA, As I was reading the first post, I was asking where is that d@mn trade mark picture from Darque.
    Blame the art on 2K1Toaster.

    I just spread it 'round liberally when it's called for.
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  2. #12
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    I was actually wondering about fuses myself. I just finished my install this past weekend, and I fused everything, but how do I know what the right size fuse to use is?

    put a 50 amp fuse in between the pc (via vb7000g, m3-atx psu) and a 10 amp fuse to the monitor (xenarc 700tsv) from the wiring harness (ign line)

    The 50 amp fuse kinda scares me because I think it's too much, or is it fine?

  3. #13
    Constant Bitrate
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    I think both your fuses are way too large. 10A for the monitor? If you look at the power requirements it probably doesn't pull much more than 1A @ 12V so you might want to check that out and downgrade the fuse.

  4. #14
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    well according to xenarc, it operates at 11 - 24V and uses less than 8 watts, so thats about 0.7A at 8 watts and 11V, but what about engine cranks and cold starts? Shouldn't I put at least 1A for those type of situations?

  5. #15
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    The fuses are there to protect the wiring, not the equipment.

    You want a fuse that is more than the max power draw of the equipment, but less than the max load the wire can carry.

    For the monitor, I'd think a 1A or 2A fuse.
    For the PC, somewhere between 10A & 20A.

    Cranking shouldn't be an issue. There will be less current flowing during cranking, as the bulk of the current will be fed to the starter to turn over the engine.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
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  6. #16
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chronus72488 View Post
    I was actually wondering about fuses myself. I just finished my install this past weekend, and I fused everything, but how do I know what the right size fuse to use is?

    put a 50 amp fuse in between the pc (via vb7000g, m3-atx psu) and a 10 amp fuse to the monitor (xenarc 700tsv) from the wiring harness (ign line)

    The 50 amp fuse kinda scares me because I think it's too much, or is it fine?
    Most of the items in the car are meant for a desktop. I go by what the adapter said (the one that plugs into the wall). So say a USB Hub, most range from 1 to 1.5 amps, some even 2. The glass fuses I use have small numbers printed on them. So it would read 1.5A on the corner.

    You could always go with a circuit breaker if you dont like fuses. As far as the PC, it all depends on the PSU, which most are fused on their own. On my Lilliputs I use a 1.5A fuse.
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  7. #17
    Constant Bitrate
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarquePervert View Post
    Cranking shouldn't be an issue. There will be less current flowing during cranking, as the bulk of the current will be fed to the starter to turn over the engine.
    Actually, "it depends".

    If you have a fully passive (read resistive) load then, yes, the current drawn will be less due to the voltage drop during cranking.

    However, if you have an active load (like the switching DC-DC power supplies we're all so fond of) then the device will draw more current to make up for the decrease in input voltage.

  8. #18
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sicarius View Post
    Actually, "it depends".

    If you have a fully passive (read resistive) load then, yes, the current drawn will be less due to the voltage drop during cranking.

    However, if you have an active load (like the switching DC-DC power supplies we're all so fond of) then the device will draw more current to make up for the decrease in input voltage.
    just so i am clear on the concept-- for active loads like the dc-dc, it would be causing what would typically be refered to as a brown-out, right? where the device knows theres power, and keeps trying to power itself on, but there is not actually enough power to support the device?

  9. #19
    FLAC
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    not really... these dc-dc psu's will provide what its supposed to regardless of what the battery condition is... until it cant anymore and then it shuts down completely. all sicarius is saying is when the battery voltage gets low, these active supplies will pull a lot more current then normal- but the device running off the active supply wont know the difference.

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