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Thread: Air Flow/Fans for trunk computer build - is this how it should be done???

  1. #11
    Confusion Master
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    Enforcer's Avatar
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    Seeing as we are all throwing our assholes opinions in here, I will throw mine in.

    One of the issues with air cooling is, you bring all sorts of ****e into your PC case and around your components, especially if you hook up a fan to draw air in through the 'baffle' (I know the suggesting was to blow air out of this but then you aren't really bringing cool air in. Water cooled (as long as the case is air tight) will prevent this, but then you need to water cool the video chip, memory and HD's (is there water cooling for the drives?)


    Bringing cool ar in from the cabin is probably the best idea, like someone said, you ain't gonna wanna be in a hot enviroment yourself. But rigging this up could be messy and/or ineffective.

    Plenty of heat sinks and somehow contact with the vehicle body to help as an extra heat sink, but then seeing as how hot the vehicle body can get on really hot days, maybe not.


    I think each individual has to experiment and finds out what works for them. Also your location in relation to the equator wil be a factor as well. (I reckon the canucks are laughing at the moment, saying "what heat issues?" In fact they are probably asking "How can we prewarm our PC's before starting the car?")

  2. #12
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enforcer View Post
    Seeing as we are all throwing are assholes opinions in here, I will throw mine in.
    Sounds like a disgusting version of the hokey pokey.


    I'm not going to add much to the conversation that hasn't already been addressed, really.
    For a performance PC, liquid cooling is great stuff. It's a must-have if you're going to do serious overclocking, and adds a cool aesthetic to a "show-off" PC.

    However I don't think a vehicle is the right environment for a watercooled PC.
    The cooling benefits won't be all that great, since you're only going to cool to ambient temperatures.
    If your PC is in the trunk, the ambient temperature on a warm summer day is going to be too high for liquid cooling to be effective. That said, air cooling under those circumstances won't be much better.
    It doesn't matter whether you're pushing warm liquid across the CPU or blowing hot air across the CPU, the net result is the same: You're not getting the sucker cool.

    The main reason I would recommend air cooling over liquid cooling in a vehicle install is vibration. You don't want a hose from your water cooling rig coming loose and spewing coolant on your electronics, especially while driving. Vibration is what can and will work the tubing loose from the fittings.



    That said, the trend now is low-power CPU setups (like Intel's Atom) that don't generate much heat, many of which are passively cooled. This hardware will fare much better in a trunk install than a "standard desktop" counterpart. It's no guarantee that it won't have problems on the hottest of days, though.

    doncarbone, I have yet to see any info on what PC hardware you are looking at. I searched your threads and came up with naught.
    The hardware you choose will really determine the cooling needs.

    That said, your diagram shows a pretty inefficient airflow setup. You have the fans pushing/pulling air around a 180 degree bend. Pulling the air through that isn't much of a problem, but the fan pushing the air (the 120mm on the right) will simply blow the air at the side (the inner fender wall?) and the air will stop and disperse a bit. Think of aiming a water hose at a wall, and you get the idea.




    (is there water cooling for the drives?)
    Of course there is! Links, if you're interested:
    http://www.dangerden.com/store/aqua-...lock.html#tabs
    http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...hp?cPath=29_45
    http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/...locks_HDD.html
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  3. #13
    Confusion Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarquePervert View Post

    Of course there is! Links, if you're interested:

    Nah, I'm not. There is no way I would water cool a PC, even indoors, in a stable enviroment, water and elec trickery just do not mix.

  4. #14
    Maximum Bitrate RAWPWR's Avatar
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    Red face

    My wife's car has a ac vent aiming towards the back passengers, so now I'm working on this idea where I tie in from one of the AC vents in my Formula Firebird, using a clear flexible hose that I have laying around, this is from a Heil Talk box (ala-Frampton,bon-jovi,aerosmith)that I used a few times for certain gigs in the past, until I toasted it....never go over a 100 watts!

    .....Then this hose would get fed under the carpet to the CarPC, then would blow COLD air in through a filtered hole on the side of the CarPC enclosure.
    I also have two fans already used for pulling the air out on the enclosure.

    The trick is keeping moisture from entering the enclosure, by opening and closing the vent at will... being used. And also make sure to run the AC at least 5 minutes before opening the vent, to ensure that all moisture is gone. This only will be used on really hot days.

    I'm sure there is going to be a bunch of doubting Tomassses here............ so I'll tell ya' how it goes if this brainstorm works or Fail. Don't know will see...........

    OH, and I'm still going to use this to...

    http://www.xoxide.com/antec-k-hler-h...idcooling.html

    Last edited by RAWPWR; 06-17-2011 at 08:34 AM.

  5. #15
    Newbie Diablo2424's Avatar
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    In the OP's diagram I can say that won't work effectively, as others have mentioned, the top right fan being the worst implementation as the air will not disperse correctly when hitting a flat surface head on. Angling fans may help you here...

    As for the how to cool a CarPC talk, I may be new in the CarPC world, but have been working with PC's for many years... I personally have a Water-cooled desktop PC (I'm typing on it right now actually), and I LOVE it. Yes I am an overclocker, and clearly a big PC modder/enthusiast, however, water-cooling is very complex and I feel it is not ideal for a CarPC setup. Definitely stick with air cooling, as for keeping the CPU cool, this is a very good reason to use a low-power CPU, such as an Intel Atom. Much easier to keep it cool, as well as things like on-board video instead of a powerful PCI-Express 1Ghz monster video card, lol. That's just not necessary for this application.

    Regarding the ducting A/C air from the vents to the PC enclosure, this is a very good idea, just be careful with condensation forming, remember condensation will form on a PC's components if the temperature of the cpu(heatsink, technically)/other components is lower than the ambient temp. (Temperature outside of the PC's enclosure) However, if you do a little bit of reading up on extreme PC cooling, ex forum: xtremesystems.org, and other various extreme overclocking sites you will be able to learn that people who cool their PC's using TEC's (Peltier's) or Phase Change cooling MUST keep the components from frying due to condensation. There are guides out there that will show you exactly what you can do/need to keep the PC from being shocked by the condensation. (I.E. Die-electric grease in the CPU socket, neoprene foam around the socket, etc).

    HOWEVER, I personally think that this is taking the CarPC to unnecessary limits (IMO, and again this is just MY OPINION), as you will not be pushing the hardware this hard that deems this necessary... unless maybe if you live ON the equator, then looking into this stuff isn't such a bad idea, lol. But alas, most people do not live in this type of climate, I personally live in NJ where we get a good mixture of cold winters and hot-humid(yuck!) summers.

    For my CarPC I will be placing the enclosure in the trunk, and just making sure there is enough air flow to keep a steady movement of air over the components from/to the trunk space... even on the hottest of hot days this should be good, I will watch the temps of the PC to be sure, and if there are any issues I'll look into better cooling, but I think that should be good, especially running a low power Atom CPU.

  6. #16
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAWPWR View Post
    My wife's car has a ac vent aiming towards the back passengers, so now I'm working on this idea where I tie in from one of the AC vents in my Formula Firebird, using a clear flexible hose that I have laying around, this is from a Heil Talk box (ala-Frampton,bon-jovi,aerosmith)that I used a few times for certain gigs in the past, until I toasted it....never go over a 100 watts!

    .....Then this hose would get fed under the carpet to the CarPC, then would blow COLD air in through a filtered hole on the side of the CarPC enclosure.
    I also have two fans already used for pulling the air out on the enclosure.

    The trick is keeping moisture from entering the enclosure, by opening and closing the vent at will... being used. And also make sure to run the AC at least 5 minutes before opening the vent, to ensure that all moisture is gone. This only will be used on really hot days.

    I'm sure there is going to be a bunch of doubting Tomassses here............ so I'll tell ya' how it goes if this brainstorm works or Fail. Don't know will see...........

    OH, and I'm still going to use this to...

    http://www.xoxide.com/antec-k-hler-h...idcooling.html

    Quote Originally Posted by Diablo2424 View Post
    Regarding the ducting A/C air from the vents to the PC enclosure, this is a very good idea, just be careful with condensation forming, remember condensation will form on a PC's components if the temperature of the cpu(heatsink, technically)/other components is lower than the ambient temp. (Temperature outside of the PC's enclosure) However, if you do a little bit of reading up on extreme PC cooling, ex forum: xtremesystems.org, and other various extreme overclocking sites you will be able to learn that people who cool their PC's using TEC's (Peltier's) or Phase Change cooling MUST keep the components from frying due to condensation. There are guides out there that will show you exactly what you can do/need to keep the PC from being shocked by the condensation. (I.E. Die-electric grease in the CPU socket, neoprene foam around the socket, etc).

    i was unaware of any guides on how to correctly deal with the condensate. i might need to look into that further..

    hijack had a problem where he tried the exact same idea-- blowing a/c air directly into the pc case-- the condensate rusted the front fan grills, and i thought he had some other problem with some other hardware as well...

    though, in terms of simplicity, just feeding air from the cabin to the pc case is going to be the best method. depending on teh car, it might also be cheaper-- even if the cabin uses a/c, the overall cabin temp is not going to be low enough to cause condensation on components(unless you like it really really cold)

  7. #17
    Constant Bitrate doncarbone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarquePervert View Post
    doncarbone, I have yet to see any info on what PC hardware you are looking at. I searched your threads and came up with naught.
    The hardware you choose will really determine the cooling needs.
    Kingston SSDNow V100 Series 64GB 2.5IN SSD SATA Solid State Disk Flash Drive
    Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 4GB 2X2GB PC3-10666 DDR3-1333
    AMD Athlon II X2 250 Dual Core Processor Socket AM3 3.0GHZ 2MB L2 Cache 65W
    ASUS M4A78LT-M LE mATX AM3 DDR3 AMD Radeon 3000 Sound GBLAN Motherboard
    Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-FI Titanium FATAL1TY PCI-E 1X 24BIT Sound Card 7.1
    Opus DCX6.360 (360W) Car PSU

    Fans I am using:

    2 x Coolermaster R4-L2R-20AC 120MM Blue LED Case Fan 2000RPM 69CFM 19DBA 3/4 Pin (decided 120mm x 2 was better than a single 80mm + 120mm)

  8. #18
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    That hardware will definitely need more cooling than a typical atom-based setup.
    Cooling it in the trunk where the ambient temperature can be extreme may prove challenging.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  9. #19
    Self proclaimed spoon feeder TruckinMP3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doncarbone View Post
    Kingston SSDNow V100 Series 64GB 2.5IN SSD SATA Solid State Disk Flash Drive
    Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 4GB 2X2GB PC3-10666 DDR3-1333
    AMD Athlon II X2 250 Dual Core Processor Socket AM3 3.0GHZ 2MB L2 Cache 65W
    ASUS M4A78LT-M LE mATX AM3 DDR3 AMD Radeon 3000 Sound GBLAN Motherboard
    Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-FI Titanium FATAL1TY PCI-E 1X 24BIT Sound Card 7.1
    Opus DCX6.360 (360W) Car PSU

    Fans I am using:

    2 x Coolermaster R4-L2R-20AC 120MM Blue LED Case Fan 2000RPM 69CFM 19DBA 3/4 Pin (decided 120mm x 2 was better than a single 80mm + 120mm)
    Do you "need" that much processing?
    Anytime you step up the processing amounts you add complexity to p0wer & cooling solutions.
    TruckinMP3
    D201GLY2, DC-DC power, 3.5 inch SATA

    Yes, you should search... and Yes, It has been covered before!

    Read the FAQ!

  10. #20
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    if you have enough space in the spare tire cubby, that might be a better location.

    you could put some ductwork to feed to/from the cubby to the cabin, and because it is a smaller area, it should be a little easier to keep cool, instead of trying to cool the entire trunk...

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