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Thread: fiberglass custom console

  1. #21
    FLAC Skraggy_uk's Avatar
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    LOL. Oh I can get nice smooth patches (getting rid of the big ridges), but I get little pits that are a real sod to remove, or bigger dips that need more filler. In the end, i usually end up nearly doubling the weight of whatever I'm making, with filler.

    Problem is that I've adapted the standard console, rather than make a new one. So I have to get it pretty smooth, as it was just plain plastic rather than carpet or Vinyl covered, and I want it to look "Fairly" standard, but wider with a screen, rather than a small cubby and a Din slot.

    I have plastic primer, and satin black plastic bumper spray to paint the whole thing once done, but I'm wondering if I could use a couple of coats of something like a crackle glaze between layers of top coat to give a textured surface, to hide the minor imperfections.

    Other choices are use either spray on stone chip (nice and thick and would fill the minor dips and divots) underneith the top coat of plastic paint, or use Hammered finish paint to make a textured surface.

    I would use carbon look film, if I was sure it was strong enough, and flexible enough to curve arround the contours.
    4x4 in a turbo stylee.

  2. #22
    I'm sorry, and you are....? frodobaggins's Avatar
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    why don't you fill all your dips with filler, let it dry, then sand down your high spots
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  3. #23
    FLAC Skraggy_uk's Avatar
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    I have tried that, but I end up with more dips to fill.

    Problem is, I'm not exactley working with a dead flat surface like you would with car panel, but one that dips inwards.

    I've tried using 40 and 80 grit to remove large amounts, to just leave the minimum, and then adding a smooting layer, and doing the same again, but the dips (or new ones) just won't go away, and get into really nasty corners where it is tricky getting the wet and dry in.

    Another problemI have is getting really neat feathered edges.
    4x4 in a turbo stylee.

  4. #24
    I'm sorry, and you are....? frodobaggins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skraggy_uk
    I have tried that, but I end up with more dips to fill.

    Problem is, I'm not exactley working with a dead flat surface like you would with car panel, but one that dips inwards.

    I've tried using 40 and 80 grit to remove large amounts, to just leave the minimum, and then adding a smooting layer, and doing the same again, but the dips (or new ones) just won't go away, and get into really nasty corners where it is tricky getting the wet and dry in.

    Another problemI have is getting really neat feathered edges.

    are you sanding with your hand, or some kind of block ?
    [H]4 Life
    My next generation Front End is right on schedule.
    It will be done sometime in the next generation.
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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by frodobaggins
    I sanded a 4x4 into a model canoe once
    gaadamnnn!!
    lazynok

  6. #26
    I'm sorry, and you are....? frodobaggins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazynok
    gaadamnnn!!


    like I said, you can sand anything into any shape if your dedicated


    and btw, before you get too excited, I used a belt sander
    [H]4 Life
    My next generation Front End is right on schedule.
    It will be done sometime in the next generation.
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  7. #27
    FLAC Skraggy_uk's Avatar
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    frodo, used a normal rubber block, just my fingers that can contour into the shape I need, a short length of cut of broom handle that will shape batter. Nothing seems to effectively get right tight in the corners I need to smooth.

    I have a photo of it, but it is on my cellphone, and I don't have BT on my PC at the office, or my PC at home, so it is kind of stuck there.
    4x4 in a turbo stylee.

  8. #28
    I'm sorry, and you are....? frodobaggins's Avatar
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    just use your hand, much less problems with dips
    [H]4 Life
    My next generation Front End is right on schedule.
    It will be done sometime in the next generation.
    I'm a lesbian too.
    I am for hire!

  9. #29
    Maximum Bitrate albysure's Avatar
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    ok. since i have just gotten back into doing body work because of my install i have found that people dont use glazing putty anymore. the new thing is called icing. it goes on real nice and smooth and fills every pit and hole you have. sands good too. now here's a trick. when you sand and then prime, use one color. after it dries give it a light sand. prime again with another color and sand lightly again. your bumps will show up better with the two different colors.

  10. #30
    FLAC Skraggy_uk's Avatar
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    This is where I'm at so far

    Sorry about the size. Photo was taken with my Nokia 3650, and I didn't have time to edit it, after I mailed it to myself.

    Still needs a lot of work, but you can see how much I had to widen it to get a 10.4" TFT panel in.

    The side was cut from the original console.
    Then an MDF TFT panel sized frame was screwed in.
    The the piece that was cutoff was screwed onto the frame.
    Then using body repair mesh, and contact adhesive, and some more screws, I filled in the gap between the old console pieces.
    The I used used fibreglass body repair paste to build it up to roughly the right shape, and spent a long time sanding that back.

    The it has been skimmed over with several layers of filler/bondo/bog.

    still needs more sanding, and smoothing, but getting there.
    4x4 in a turbo stylee.

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