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Thread: my ideas to combat heat

  1. #101
    Variable Bitrate telekineticfool's Avatar
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    I would say, if you have the ground clearance to do it, buy a short ram 3" k&n or equivalent filter and use that instead of the duct on your intake side, just to see if aerodynamic effects are coming into play.
    MP3 MR2 (click here for details)
    Hardware: EPIA M10000, 512Meg Ram, 5.6"TFT, Opus 150watt DC-DC PSU
    Software: Windows 2000, Media Engine 2.0

  2. #102
    Variable Bitrate kiztope's Avatar
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    I would agree with the above posts... it is definitly the air pressure being created by the movement. I am not familiar with your vehicle, but is there any way to route the intake port to a fender well? or some other area where air is not moving so fast?

  3. #103
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    Dont know if anybody has suggested this before but, could you tap into your AC ducts with a small tube and route to where your carputer is?

  4. #104
    Maximum Bitrate carpcnoobie's Avatar
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    See post #33 in this thread.
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  5. #105
    Maximum Bitrate brrman's Avatar
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    Has anyone ever tried this? Buy on of these, and hook it to a small fan and a thermistor and power the fan with the solar power. Vent the air to the outside somehow.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

    Or even forget the thermistor and have it hooked to a switch to turn the fan on permanently when you get out of your car for a while.

    At least then you don;t wear your battery down with the fans going.
    Car: 2000 Audi A4 Avant 1.8t
    Carputer 2.0: removed. Back to stock.

  6. #106
    Variable Bitrate nzKAOSnz's Avatar
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    heres a thought. (Similair to kiztope). Would it work if u..... put one of the ducts somewhere else, in a area with a different pressure (either in cabin/fender etc.)

    Then the pressure difference would draw air out of cabin/in the inlet duct whereever that is put, and suck it across/through the computer.

    Just a thought



    Test it by taking one of the ducts off the carputer. (Just dont kill urself at lights with the carbon monoxide :P

  7. #107
    Variable Bitrate blurp's Avatar
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    Wizard, if you really want to water cool your epia, you can. You can water cool basically any PC nowadays. It's just a matter of getting the right size water block to fit your application. By the way, the heatsinks on an M10000 are very easily removed. Take a look at what I did with mine.

    http://www.bradleyjacobs.com/carputer1/index.html

    Just be sure to use a very thin layer of arctic silver between the cpu and hsf, or waterblock.


    Here's someone who has water cooled an epia.

    http://www.epiacenter.com/modules.ph...ticle&artid=37

    You could even use your ductwork to pass air over your radiator in the trunk, once you get the air actually moving into your trunk (if vaccuum is really the problem, which I suspect).
    www.bradleyjacobs.com

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  8. #108
    Raw Wave wizardPC's Avatar
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    okay, I finally pulled the system out today and ran MEMTEST86. I have never used this program, but I assume that 10062 errors on a 512mb stick is not good. Am I right? I always suspected the RAM might be the culprit....
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  9. #109
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    What i did looong ago to cool an amprack that i had was something similar to the air intakes. whenever i think about my install in that car i kickmyself for not taking pictures.

    I had made an intake vent that air entered into the car from under the car, facing forward so air is forced into it. The shape is important so it catches the air and doesnt cause a vacum. to seal the vent from water, snow , mice, i used gortex fabric (got some socks from an army surplus catalog http://www.uscav.com/productinfo.asp...id=6955&tabID= will work).

    i had the intake come from the front of the car, go up into my amp rack. the most important thing was that the amp rack was sealed from leaks except for the intake/exhaust. I also put two fans on either side to pull air through the system.

    the exhaust exited out the back of my tirewell. the exaust vent shape is important too so that the air is sucked out instead of being forced back in. a cone shaped w/the tip cut off seemed to work (as long as it isnt a hole in the side, it must protrude a bit ala muffler style).

    i never had a cooling issue in my car when this was in it.

    for the current setup that the guy has already posted, i would imagine that the flextubes are not sealed around the fan and/or the case itself isnt sealed and the air is being pulled out of the car through both vents, through the leaks in the system.

  10. #110
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    I would suggesting gettling electric peltier coolers they are tiny little mats that transfer heat from one side of it to the other very rapidly you must cool the other side of it though id suggest a water cooled system with this setup you can keep your system kool at about 120 degrees outside. As for your system now I am going to ahve to agree with the vacumn being created the problem is, is that when the air moving so quickly over the ports to sucks right back across the bottom creating a like bubble between the wind flow and the ports. If you want to keep your ports I would suggest maybe fabricating a lip onto them to deflect air. While your working on this keep this in mind I dont know if youve seen a wind tunnel or not but just remember that air at high speeds works like water it flows in currents. I dont know if that has helped any but just puttin my 2 cents in

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