my ideas to combat heat

**Mr.Sinister** · 03-11-2004, 11:21 PM

You'd probably be better off using a 12v water pump (like the Swiftech MCP600 or the Dangerden DD12V-D4), and watercooling your Carputer. Don't snicker. It's not as far-fetched as it may seem to be at first.

You wouldn't need to power it from the PC's PSU directly either. Just rig up a relay system so that the pump turns on when the PSU turns on.

Of course you'd HAVE to use anti-freeze in it, or come winter your pump and pipes will burst. You won't get the low temps that a regular WC'ed system would get, but since you're not going for max overclock, it's not an issue.

Some of the other benefits are that you wouldn't have to cut open a blow hole in your car's underside either. Just cut open a hole large enough to pass exit and return lines through, and then seal around it. If you use a large enough radiator (like an oil cooler), you could just mount it underneath the car without using any fans. The air moving over it will be enough to cool it off. The only major downside to this is that if you're parked over some really hot asphalt, instead of cooling the water, the radiator will heat it. This should be easily overcome if you mount the radiator in a position other than directly underneath the car

The biggest hurdle would be mounting a waterblock onto the motherboard. For an M10000, you'd have to figure out a way to either convert the existing heatsink into a waterblock, or how to remove it without damaging the processor underneath. Once you got the existing heatsink off, a Koolance CP-200 waterblock would do the trick nicely, and still remain relatively low profile.

**ares** · 03-11-2004, 11:39 PM

why not just underclock the chip... IMO I would not cut any holes in the outer panels. sounds like trouble. and if I were buying a car and saw you cut a hole, I dont care what the reason I wouldnt pay 2cents for the car.

Id definitly investigate a better way than that. under the car could be extremely hot anyway, hotter than inside, black pavement and the heat of the transmission and motor all under there. naw, wouldnt do that at all.

Id try underclocking it. chances are you could run pretty safe at 600mhz or something, and that should keep the chip considerably cooler.

**P4_2.66GHz** · 03-12-2004, 09:14 AM

I wouldn't want to run A/C into a computer system, worrying about water condensation on the mainboard and other components.
The water cooling sounds like an awesome idea for the extreme areas.
What about adding an extra fan to blow on the CPU heatsink? That may help.

**wizardPC** · 03-13-2004, 05:40 PM

Originally Posted by P4_2.66GHz

I wouldn't want to run A/C into a computer system, worrying about water condensation on the mainboard and other components.
The water cooling sounds like an awesome idea for the extreme areas.
What about adding an extra fan to blow on the CPU heatsink? That may help.

Air conditioners remove water from the air. the water that forms on the air conditioner is the result of that.

Adding an extra fan probably won't help, since it will be blowing 120F air around

**e_z_street** · 03-13-2004, 09:44 PM

This guy did the whole venting thing:

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/212327/4

You might be able to contact him to see how this worked out for him.

Also, has anybody ever thought about using one of those portable heater/cooler units. They use a ceramic heating/cooling element. When a voltage is applied to the element, one side gets cold and the other side gets hot. If you reverse the polarity, you get the opposite effect. You blow a fan over the element to circulate the hot/cold air. Here is an example of one:

http://www.ioffer.com/i/POWER-TO-GO-12V-MINI-COOLER-WARMER-2440773

You could mount your board right inside of the cooler or you could hack just the ceramic element and fan onto an existing case. I'm not sure what kind of power consumption we are talking here though.

**P4_2.66GHz** · 03-13-2004, 09:51 PM

Originally Posted by wizardPC

Air conditioners remove water from the air. the water that forms on the air conditioner is the result of that.

Adding an extra fan probably won't help, since it will be blowing 120F air around

Cool down a piece of metal, than take it where it is warm. What happens?

**anaxagoras** · 03-13-2004, 10:01 PM

I used to have a similar cooler, the ceramic element is called a peltier, a computer wouldn't last a few hours in one of those... they're condensation whores

**bondbond55** · 03-15-2004, 08:16 AM

I've found some cheap rear quarter panels for my car that have built in vents. You could water-cool your system, have the water pumped out into an area where the air flows freely (space inside quarter panel for me) and set up a heatsink there. I'm not totally sure what I'm doing yet though. My car is a convertable so the trunk is the same airspace as the cabin, minus a leather seperator.

**siberia37** · 03-15-2004, 08:28 AM

Originally Posted by wizardPC

since heat seems to be the biggest issue with my system (I get lockups etc when the case temp gets to be about 90F), I am going to take some drastic measures.

How about just designing your system to be easy to remove and take with you when the weather gets extreme? That seems less drastic than tearing holes in your car.

**NightHunter** · 03-15-2004, 09:34 AM

Why not just run your AC in your car.

, make some venting going from a floor vent and run that to your PC. I did this and it works pretty good. all vents run under neath carpet so you dont even see them. I made the vents from old vaccuum cleaner attachments becaus they were flat and fit on to the vent in my car. Lucky. Water cooling is common, but kind of sucks on a cold day if your cooling your computer. Im in wisconsin and travel south occasionally so I needed it to run off the cars vents. Now that I placed the computer inside the cab of the car, I did away with the venting thing, but it does work good.